I'll let you know once my car is acutally running ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
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I'll let you know once my car is acutally running ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by egSi
I done one before
depends on the size of the car,
you can hardly tell on ED civic and ED crx, feals better IMO
That's good to hear. I hope the EK doesn't prove to be too dam heavy.
being a power steering rack converted to non ps should it be harder to steer. something about the ratio.
A manual rack takes more turns lock to lock as to take away a little steering effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by iced
I've been running a manual-ized power-rack in my DA for about 8 months now.
Now, i'm not a very big guy and I don't have any issues with turning effort with a stock radius wheel.
For the occasional spirited drive I find that i'm wanting an even shorter (or longer.. whichever means less turns lock to lock) rack for better steering response. However, i'm sure this would become a pain for daily driving.
Just get yourself a nice soft set of tyres, and get rid of all the stuff up the front end you don't need, like aircon, battery, etc etc.
I didn't use any fancy fittings. Your wasting your time. The only part lubricated by the powersteering fluid is the p/s piston and seals, of which, since you are undertaking this mod, you do not care about.
After 8months of (albeit not that many kays) driving, I have no strange noises or anything. If I did, i'd rip out the rack and maching away the seals in it to truly convert it to a manual rack, but no need to so far.
The only thing which is important in this is driving style. When you go over bumps instead of you keeping the wheels straight with the assitance of the powersteering pump, the wheels will control the steering wheel.
No LSD? You now have to fight torque steer.
However, i've found that no matter what negatives this may have, nothing outweighs the feedback you get through the wheel, which if you have only ever driven p/s cars, you have never experienced.
You can feel exactally how much load is on the tyres at every instance. In the wet, you can feel exactally when you are about to let loose and understeer, you know exactally how much power you can put down through every corner.
This is one of the few mods that will really make you feel like you are in control of the car, and is my one gripe against the current trend of larger cars which are way too heavy for even the buffest man to remove p/s.
when you did this did you take down the rack.
is it possible to do with rack still bolted up ?? if not how do i take it down and put it back up. could the rack be different for different models i have a EG4
Cheers
You can leave the rack in, but it would be very hard to do with your engine still in. I don't think it'll be almost impossibe.
how would i go abouts taking the rack out to do it. i wont be removing engine for sure.
Jack your car up. Use engine crane to hold up your engine. Unbolt rear bracket from the mount, undo the front LCA's. Then drop the whole cross memeber. Quite a big job if you don't often do this sort of stuff.
Rack was still in, but engine was out.
Your best bet is to leave the rack in and get the engine out. It's the only way you'll get all the lines out in one piece.
Getting the rack off is a bitch. It's super gay to get it connected back to the column. It's super gay trying to get it out of the crossmember. In fact, it's so gay i'd probably opt for taking the engine out before the crossmember. But I've hardly got anything attached to it anymore so it's a breeze.
I'm gonna go the whole hog soon and plug up the holes permanently and drill out the piston to truly convert it into a manual rack.
Good luck.
question - anyone specifically know if EG racks have the same hi/low pressure line thread sizes etc ? Im looking at this mod for the egg and havent got a spare hi/low threads to take to the place and measure up...
Nope they are different sizes. Sizes are fully gay. I had to order them in, but i've thrown away my reciept so can't remeber the sizes.