DIY: Ghetto dodgy custom airbox for SRI (Accord Euro). Temperature on page 5!

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Originally Posted by yfin

Very nice work. So no rattling sounds - eg the shield against the body, the lid, or anything like that?

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No rattling because everything is tight. The aluminium is 1.0mm thick, so it does not vibrate as much as the usual 0.6mm sheet aluminium that is commonsoly sold at Bunnings. Edges that come into contact with the chassis and the stainless steel intake pipe are covered with pvc tubing. The aluminium pieces that go around the intake pipe are friction fitted to be super tight as well. The lid is secured to the chassis using thick non-flexible aluminium bar.

It was also silent before I added the rubber insulation.

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Originally Posted by aaronng

With regards to the shield itself, CF conducts heat slower than aluminium. So that's a plus for GruppeM. With regards to performance, the filter and pod mounting design to the intake arm has more effect than the shield design itself.

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I'm very impressed! this should work just aswell as the gruppeM design and it should look good when it's painted too. Like you mentioned the only significant distance (assuming the heat shielding works practically the same) is the design of the pod, and the fact that the gruppeM is mounted directly to the end of the stock intake tubing wheras the apexi design has the extended alluminium.

I think you've come up with a close to ideal design :thumbsup::thumbsup:

interesting read indeed

good work aaron :thumbsup: :)

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Originally Posted by claymore

Nice DIY good work. Don't worry about the box heating the air. The volume of air moving so fast through the enclosure prevents the transfer of heat to the air column.

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There is some heating. I have consistently lower engine coolant temperatures when cruising now. I'm waiting for my OBDII scantool to come in so I can read IAT numbers. Will report the temperature drop once I get it.

Update FUUUUUUUUUUU~~~~

I have installed the ducting pipe to from the fog light cover to the bottom of the airbox cavity.

1) Here is where we left off. This is the hole which we want to connect to the bumper, in the most dodgy way.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/7...ithsidetz8.jpg

2) To be dodgy, we will do this without removing the bumper. Not sure if you haven't realised it yet, but if you have foglights or have an 06 model you're either out of luck or you can do a modified version to the side of the front bar intake or the tiny little cover at the corner. I have an 04 base model, so I get to do some dodgy cutting to my foglight cover. Now, jack your car up, use stands if you want or risk your car going down to the ground. Since I wasn't underneath the car, I just used the jack to hold the car up, checking it up every 10 minutes and jacking it up more if necessary.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/6...ndlinertf6.jpg

3) Now, get the mice 10cm aluminium piping, stretch it out and put it through the hole from the bottom. I had to squeeze it a bit to get it through, so it looks ultra dodgy.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/941...ithpipedj5.jpg

4) Before I forget, put your hose clamp around the tube before you cable tie the end to the foglight mounting hole. Use your favourite tape (mine is masking tape) and do a little band around the end of the pipe at the bumper side. Then using a sharp screwdriver, poke a hole through the pipe so that you can slip a cable tie though the pipe. The tape will prevent the cable tie from tearing your soft aluminium pipe. In the pic below, you can also see the headlight grounding point. You can use that to mount a thin piece of aluminium that will be held to the pipe through the hose clamp.
http://img242.imageshack.us/img242/5...thepipenb7.jpg

5) Now, go back to your engine bay and look at the dodgy crushed pipe. I cut the pipe around the edges so that I could fold it back on to the chassis. Since I didn't have my aluminium ring to secure the pipe to the chassis, I just used masking tape as a temporary solution. As dodgy as this mod is supposed to be, using masking tape to hold the pipe down exceeds all levels of dodgyness that even I would not use long term. It looks so bad that I am even hesitant in posting the pic below.
http://img181.imageshack.us/img181/3...tapedupdc3.jpg

6) Take a step back and check everything. Check the position of the pipe at the bumper, check the tightness of the hose clamp and press out any indents that you might have inadvertantly left on your soft pipe.
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9...oglightpa3.jpg

7) Put everything back together, making sure that the clips and screws underneath the front bumper actually catch on to the wheel liner piece as you tighten. My fog light cover had holes cut through it using a dremel. A word of advice, use a low speed setting. The plastic melts and readheres to itself if you use too high a speed. Look how stealthy it is!
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/6...thylookge3.jpg

8) Here's a closer look of the dodgy intake pipe.
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/7...closeupnz2.jpg

Impressions: With the piping, coolant temperatures drop about 2ºC when I am driving and go back up to normal when the car is stopped. So cold air is getting in. I just need that scantool. Hurry up and arrive!!!!!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by tony1234

Good effort aaron.Nice and detailed.I'll wait for the JTUNE one,mainly because i'm too lazy to go through the effort you have gone to!!!!:thumbsup:

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I reckon the Jtune one will sound great! After I added the rubber insulation, the induction roar is noticeably muffled. It's still loud but the clarity is gone. :thumbdwn:

dodgy and ghetto, things i would of never assosciated with a euro lol.

nice one mate :thumbsup:

Nice! Well done.

So how many new engine bay scratches do you have? :D

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Originally Posted by EuroDude

Nice! Well done.

So how many new engine bay scratches do you have? :D

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Nah, the edges are covered with PVC tubing. The only scratches are on the gray plastic bit on the side of the engine bay and a few on the front end just next to the headlight adjustment hole all from size fitting before adding the protection.

nice and simple
i like
with some clever one can improve ont he mounting and bending of the aluminium for a better off the shelf finish.

wow, it didnt turn out half bad.
Seems like a very good idea. How much did it end up costing you? less than an injen etc?
I have a mate who owns some metal factory or something. I might follow in your footsteps n see if he can cut and bend everything for me.

Good work mate, top stuff!

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Originally Posted by xiang

wow, it didnt turn out half bad.
Seems like a very good idea. How much did it end up costing you? less than an injen etc?
I have a mate who owns some metal factory or something. I might follow in your footsteps n see if he can cut and bend everything for me.

Good work mate, top stuff!

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Price of materials was $28 for aluminium (Capral, I used 1/2 of it), $13 for rubber sheet (Clark Rubber, used 2/3), $4 for rivets (Bunnings, heaps remaining), $3 for washers (Bunnings, heaps remaining), $2 for PVC tube (Bunnings, heaps left), aluminium pipe $10 (Bunnings), hose clamp $4 (I think).

The most expensive part are the tools required. Tin snips $9, riveter $11, hole punch $7. Socket set, pliers and dremel I already had them.

So that's $91 so far. Add in $9 for the engine enamel to respray. $100.

You can't compare this airbox to an Injen as the Injen is a CAI. This is an SRI, more similar to the GruppeM.