The big silver one ? OR the little red one ?Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
Silver one = proper 1 tonned jack. Will hold up for a long time :)
DONT use these smaller super-cheap auto shite ( like shown above)
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The big silver one ? OR the little red one ?Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
Silver one = proper 1 tonned jack. Will hold up for a long time :)
DONT use these smaller super-cheap auto shite ( like shown above)
The red jack is tiny.. I have the orange one, and eventhough it says it is rated for 1650kg safe working load, it still slowly drops down. So even with those trolley jacks that cost under $100, don't trust them.
big silver one.
lol, nah even with that jack, i don't really like going underneath the cars.
i always use stands.
best bet = stands :)Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
A few points that I will contribute:
- I prefer to never jack from the tow hook as I have seen some of these fail, twisting the hook and dropping the car
- As others have said, even with a good jack use, jack stands. Jack the car up using your jack. Insert stands and then remove jack.
- If the lugs are on to tight, I suggest taking the car to a local tyre shop (if you can) as you can potentially strip the thread. The truth as I was always told is that they never need to be put on as tight as most wheel shops put the lugs on - the only reason they do it that way is because over time the lugs will loosen.
Using a breaker bar and a proper 12-point socket, you won't damage the threads unless they were put on too tight until the nut and bolt were cold-welded together.
Interesting to note. So basically unless the nut is tight up against the rim, no matter how much force you put on it (assuming it is somewhat controlled), you wont destroy the threads?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
more leverage = more accuracy :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Zdster
A big breaker bar is a must.
What damages the threads is overtightening. To overtighten you need more torque. What people usually do is jerk the breaker bar or stand on the bar to tighten or loosen the nut. That's sharp strong torque. Constant lower torque gives you more control and you are able to stop when the tightness is just right. The longer the bar, the more control you have because you don't have to apply as much force to get the same torque.Quote:
Originally Posted by Zdster
I see people tightening their nuts using a breaker bar and pulling upwards. That is sharp torque on the nut, plus a risk of injuring yourself by having a muscle pull at the ribcage (hairline fractures are not fun). Best is to put the bar and socket on the nut so that it is pointing slightly above horizontal and then just holding the handle with your right hand while keeping your left hand at the socket side. In this situation, the wheel is on your right and you are facing in the same orientation as the car's chassis. Squat down and let your body weight do the tightening.
For loosening nuts, just do the opposite with your left hand on the handle and your right hand at the socket side.
wheel nuts should be aroudn 100NM to be tightened - less on "tapered" race nuts etc.
Reminds me of when I was doing my swap and was tring to break the driveshaft to wheel hub nut. LOL The breaker bar I used was 170cm long AND had me(80Kg)Standing(Jerking) on the end of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
It's been along time since I was in school doing physics but by memory the force I must of been excerting on that puppy was huge.
wtf :confused: