Here's a link to a DIY (thank god for those) for an ECU check on a civic, hopefully this gives you a better idea.
Good luck.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8218
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Here's a link to a DIY (thank god for those) for an ECU check on a civic, hopefully this gives you a better idea.
Good luck.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8218
Sounds like main fuel relay. Ignition problems..... riiiight....
It's a dead givaway that it's the main fuel relay with the delay before the engine cuts out. The CEL comes on when the fuel relay kicks the bucket, however the entire fuel system is still presurised, so injector pulses still inject fuel, even though the fuel pump is off. When fuel pressure finally dries up, you'll stall; giving you the alternator light and the no oil pressure light.
sounds on the money to me...
ive had the same problem, where it cut out when ever it wanted.
it was the distributor, so mayb check urs out.
Sounds like main fuel relay. Ignition problems..... riiiight....
When you say main fuel relay do you mean the PGMFI relay as per my original post ?
i have got a spare main relay for the da9
Quote:
Originally Posted by remi1au
yes that is what he means.
y r u guys so sure that its a fuel relay, like what hes sayin that it will cut out when he is driving normally. ive had that same problem n had to replace the whole distributor.
honestly just go to ur mechanic n find out from him, it may be an electrical problem..
For the engine to cut out, you need to either stop fuel or spark. Compression take's care of itself, and we'll assume that the ECU is fine, so timing is also fine (4 requirements for engine operation).
An ignition coil or ignitor going out doesn't usually give you a second chance, let alone 5 chances per night. If it was a faulty crank position sensor (or any of the 3) then you won't be starting again.
From his initial post, he says that the CEL comes on, then the engine stalls.
If his coil or ignitor were dead, they don't trigger a CEL, they simply just stop sparking. The main fuel relay turning off DOES trigger the CEL. Many DA owners, including myself have experienced it while driving, not just upon starting.
Don't take it to a mechanic until you test a working main fuel relay. Just because a mechanic says that your distributor was ****ed and replaces it, doesn't mean it was really the problem. Which is why mechanically inclinded friends (or selves) are far better for finding the problem, and keeping the wallet heavy.
Thanks for the spirited and prompt responses guys.... I intend trying the soldering of the PGMFI relay this weekend, (starting from the cheapest option first) I will keep you posted on what happens.
Thanks again.
Why dont u try an even cheaper repair diagnosis,like lots of people above have posted(one person even put in a good link) & do a code check on the ecu???
Sometimes wonder where u get your info from sometimes string.....
The igniter is set up to trigger a CEL,the ecu does monitor the status of the ignition output signal(what do u think a code 15 is?),but,depending on how the ignitor fails(what state the control chip or transistor end up in,ie locked on or off) it will not always(usually doesnt) trigger the CEL.
Ignitor doesnt always just fail totally,theres been lots of reports of people restarting,misfiring,etc from ignitor probs.
U can restart a car with a bad CKP sensor,but it will most likely go into limp mode.
The main relay DOESNT always set a CEL.
The ecu doesnt read the pump relay output signal,nor does it read the status of the contacts of the pump relay component of the main relay.So if that relay fails or the associated solder joints go dry,then no CEL.
If the ignition relay component of the main relay goes down ,then sure,with no power to the ecu,injectors & IACV, the CEL is gonna be shining bright.
Main relay failure while driving is a rare occurence as well,as the elec contacts dont like to be broken once they are made & the solder joints,once the pins,PCB & solder are at a stable temperature,will usually settle into place & the current flow across the bad joint wont want to stop ,by nature.
The failure usually occurs when the contacts are cooling down & the dry joint in the solder compounds as the components are cooling at different rates.
However,your right it can happen while driving,just more not than often.
correct ... check the main relays ... if all are good my best advice would be to go to honda or a auto electrician ... they can feed a cable to your ECU and itll tell them exactly which circuit/cable etc is failing ... if its not electronic theyll let you know right away ...
costs roughly 150 bux to do it ... but its worth it if thats whats happening