With the integra radiator i just used water cause it was leaking out every where i went but with the new radiator im using coolant mix.
Printable View
With the integra radiator i just used water cause it was leaking out every where i went but with the new radiator im using coolant mix.
just water is to rescue you to drive home....water has a boiling point of 100 degrees ~ compared to coolant with a boiling point of around 125-130 degrees.Get proper premixed from honda or other to be safe imo.
If the "cog" of the water pump is the same size on the b18 compared to the b16 pump , they would spin the same. I think the b16 is less teeth because the b18c head is slightly taller ( correct me )
Do the DIY trick on the previous page , and see if that helps.
I will doit tomorow morning before i go to work cheers
wew locote ... still have that radiator problem? since the last cruise :P ...
ahha gd luck dude
btw ben, does CD accord radiator can be change to a smaller size like civic (using fully allum race radiator?) coz the turbo clearance to the radiator is very tight... :p thx
get the radiator flow tested
Quote:
Originally Posted by locote
Not sure if the B16a and B18c pumps are the same, but if they have same number of teeth than they will spin at the same speed.... The B18c has a taller DECK compared to the B16a and this is why it needs a bigger timing belt (more teeth)Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
ive got an aftermarket rad on my eg and run a b18c, no cooling issues. I reckon its ur thermostat, or it could be certain coolant lines that may have build up. How long have you ran plain water for as this could lead to cavitation. i do not believe its your water pump, unless its old or even the radiator.
Another thing, check your heater core. My one busted and one day it led to coolant inside my cabin. Check for any coolant under the heater box.
Check your rad for hairline cracks,
Check all your coolant lines... look out for a white residue which is cavitation
Check your thermostat, throw it in boiling water, it should pop open, you never know you may have been sold a dud thermostat which happens occasionally.
Check your water pump too
hope that helps.
thanks..
I left it idling with heater on for over half hour to get all air bubles out..
even after that time blubles kept coming out, and the temp did not go over 91c.
but once i get on the freeway the car starts heating up.
thermostat works fine. i can see the coolant flowing once it opens..
It could just be the extra heat the turbo creates and the radiator cant cope as well as a full size one
Check radiator/ radiator cap.Quote:
Originally Posted by locote
i suggest u get a nice thick half sized radiator thats aluminium. My cooling system holds about 6 to 6.5L of coolant. I would think the stock radiators would be a tad small for a turbo setup. Prolly wise to invest in a thermo fan too and mount it o the front of the rad if you dont have room in the normal position and also get a air diversion plate.
stock thermostat opens to late so your raditator cant cool it intime try getting a thermostat that open early gives your radiator more time to cool down and also a thermo switch that switch on at lower temp it helps...alloy koyo radiator is a good idea to more water and thinker..