ill see if someone knows what i mean tommorow
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ill see if someone knows what i mean tommorow
Maybe this makes it easier.
Ill use Adrians post for an outline.
#1 – Lightweight flywheel (Eg:??)
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch (Eg:??)
#3 – Lower final drive (EG: ATS)
#4 – Intake (CAI – Eg: Injen / Mugen) $300 - $500
#5 – Header + cat + cat-back system (Eg: Toda/ Mugen) $1200 - $1600
#6 – Type R camshafts / adjustable cam pulleys (Eg: ?? (optional)
Power output: 106~110kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
approx cost for each individual part? (which good brand names)
Enough power for what 1/4 mile time?
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive (Eg: ATS)
#4 – Intake (CAI – Eg: Injen / Mugen)
#5 – Header + cat + cat-back system
#6 – Spec C camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / oil pump gear /
fuel pump - optional / fuel pressure regulator - optional / ECU / dyno tuning.
Power output: 114~118kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
approx cost for each individual part? (any good brand name)
Enough power for what 1/4 mile time?
A 1115 kilo vehicle will need approx. 221 horsepower to get a 13.00 ET
Plug your weight and wanted ET in here and it will give you the HP you need, then just estimate how much you need to spend to get that amount of HP.
http://www.zerotohundred.com/amf/amfcalculator.htm
cool so thats about 164kw at the wheels im assuming..
how realistic is that calculator?
Also remember to add driver weight too.
* full slicks tyres help when you race down the 1/4 mile*
I think if you wanna stay with full interior , just run the right slicks size*
what comes after these mods?Quote:
Quarter Mile Time - 14.486
-MPH Trap Speed - 93.30
-60ft Time - 2.120
-Tires - 15psi Kumho Ecsta V70A (205/50 r15)
-Car Year, Model, Body Style, Trim Level - 95 VTI-R hatch, EK, no rear seats
-Engine Code - b16a2
-N/A or FI - N/A
-Elevation or US State if you don't know - Sydney Australia, Western Sydney Internation Dragway
-Modifications - ITR cams, Skunk2 cam gears, JDM ITR 4-2-1 Header , 2.25 exhaust, Power FC, Cuso LSD, 4.929 FD, HKS HIPERMAX 2, 3.9kg flywheel, exedy organic race clutch
im over it!
looks as though you have to do 10 things and spend $6000 just to get .06 seconds faster
No offence, this topic is silly.
The difference between 14.9 & 14.2 is usually noithing more than practice driving.
We've built cars that driven well, can & do run 12's...
Some guys are good enough to do it, others are complete friggin retards...
With the same car & power, instead of 12's they run 14's...
Then they blame us for their inability to drive. lol... Go figure...
In any case,
Until you can drive the thing to the limit consistently,
IMO There is little point in a topic like this as it is only going to end in disapointment.
Maybe if you changed your ET prediction to MPH...
But even then you've got too many variables to accuratley predict mph by mph.
Atleast with a mph target you can "usually" run very close (within a few mph)to the same figure run after run regardless of your 60' time and ET.
Weight is the enemy of any drag car. Losing weight is easier (most of the time), cheaper and often nets larger reductions in ET than spending heaps of $$$$ on mods that only make small gains.
Ditto, you dont need to spend or do shiet (mods wise, bar weigth reduction) to get into the high 14s.Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
Bone stock EK4 will get you 14.7 if you know how to drive.
All driver baby!
i realised this topic is pretty dumb, maybe because it was like 2am.
Lets make this easy
whats 115kw at the wheels street trim cabable of with a good driver?
A mates H22A EG with similar power ran repeated 14.4's @ 96mph on street tyres. Street trim. No weight saving done.
With slicks it would go 14.1-14.2.