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When i did the back to back dyno CAI vs Stock, I gained power from 3000rpm to cutout.Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
http://www.imagehosting.com/out.php/...ckvsIntake.jpg
If you have a look at the above graph, it is of a system which is very similar to the k&n typhoon system. While it's not of the exact same dimensions as the typhoon system, it indicates that you lose almost no low end with a cai (on WOT).
that's all we know
CAI always drop in low end and it quite noticable
i say box~!! comptech or mugen! looks stock, good gain over a range of rpm, hear vtec. ALL GOOD!! quiet when not full throttling.
Your chart shows the base line ahead of the CAI down low. It also doesn't show you the differences in torque. So there is a loss down low with a CAI.Quote:
Originally Posted by ginganggooly
It is the main reason I prefer the boxed intakes like Icebox for street driving - unless you are prepared to spend money on ECU tuning out the losses down low.
No, it shows the baseline BELOW the CAI down low.Quote:
Originally Posted by yfin
The CAI yielded small gains until ~2700rpm on the displayed graph. There is a ~400rpm area with slightly less power (difference of less than 2.5kw), at about 3000rpm they cross over and the CAI has a clear advantage from there on.
You don't need a tractive effort line to see that the car is making more torque everywhere except for that 400rpm space.
Enclosed short ram ftw! :)
but that 400rpm less than stock is a lot when u going up hill with a heavy car like Euro. I got stock air box, injen and mugen airbox. There is a HUGE different in low end as on the street, u usually rev up to 3000rpm unless u drive like a race car all the time. Actually CAI only work when the pod start to WOT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ginganggooly
The enclosed short ram setups had interesting results in my car... I spent a whole day at the dyno (with the DC2) testing out various intakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I changed from the modified stock airbox to a shortram with no shielding and lost 6kw peak, and a bundle down low- not sure how much it was, but the whole graph was moved down.
I thought it may have been heat soak, so I bolted in the partition I made for short ram and tried it out again. Still had the same result. Thinking that maybe the heat shield wasn't working properly, we lifted the bonnet and ran the car up like that... same result yet again.
After trying out various configurations with pipe diameters and lengths, we worked out that the issue of powerloss (on the dyno) wasn't heat-soak, but due to having incorrect pipe lengths. It seems to hold true, as the modified stock airbox made almost as much top end as the optimumly sized cold air intake. As it turned out, the total pipe length of the stock intake arm, stock airbox with pvc pipe extension had an almost identical diameter and total length to the best tested CAI...
We did some rough testing on a few different motors (b16, b20, 4age, sr20de) and they all had similar results.
The lesson learnt from the whole exercise was how important pipe length is to overall breathing efficiency of the motor.
heat never be a problem on dyno i guess as u should have open up your bonnet plus you wont have a lot of runs before you sway to another setup
You're splitting hairs.Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
Why should we have the bonnet up?Quote:
Originally Posted by TypeG
We had enough consistancy in our results, from run to run, to convince myself and the tuner that the results were reasonably accurate.
what does that mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng