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8. Stay with stock cam gears unless you meet these criteria: If your cams are large, say for a GSR like 12+ MM lift with a lot of duration then you are allowed to get cam gears. You’re not buying the cam gears for way more power; they might only make 2 WHP in a small part of the graph, your buying them to reduce your valve to valve contact. This is a must when you have larger cams, such as Wicked Stage 2’s, Blox stage 2/3 or larger Skunk 2 stage 2 cams with oversize valves. You could have a situation where your valves touch each other with stock cam gears using oversize valves. You need to dial out the overlap buy advancing the exhaust cam gear to like +2 to avoid the valves touching. You need this to avoid a problem which can blow up your 5 thousand dollar long block. If you’re a turbo car, or an all motor car with mild cams, stick with stock, they work, they don’t slip, they don’t eat timing belts like some aftermarket cam gears do from a slight imperfection in the grooves in very few cases and it’s going to work. Furthermore, stock cam gears are much easier to install and know its top dead center on. Aftermarket cam gears can sometimes fool you. And you don’t know for sure if it’s manufactured perfect like stock. Then of course, the dreadful bolt coming out and falling down into the timing belt cover problem, which is rare. NO slipping problems with stock, it can’t slip, it’s not adjustable.
Im putting together a turbo kit for my d16, and am interested to know if theres a 
