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What are you talking about aaronng?Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
When I changed to a 4.44 FD I changed the crown wheel and pinion in the DIFFERENTIAL at the back of the car, between the two REAR wheels.
Just make sure your mechanic sets the preload and backlash correctly as you'll maek short work of your new crown wheel and pinion if you don't.
He will more than likely need to take it to a diff specialist. it is very very important.
Anyway, take it from me as i've gone through all this before.
stock flywheel clutch
exedy hyper single kit (4.8kg flywheel, 6 puck clutch)
fidanza flywheel (3.3kg aluminium flywheel, organic clutch disc, stock pressure plate)
stock diff
kaaz 1.5 way diff
4.44 crown wheel and pinion
Through that, you only bother to do a light flywheel when you need to change your clutch.
And if you're only into driving in a straight line, then don't bother with a flywheel. If you're into serious driving, then a flywheel will help, also make it more difficult. The car is already quite hard to manage stock, without having to regulate your rpm with a light flywheel (rise a fall really quick - when you release the gas, the RPMs WILL drop fast, and the car WILL get unsettled).
If you want to mod your car to be a better daily driver, more zip, and actually feel a difference in day-to-day driving, then get a 4.44, 4.56, or 4.77 final drive.
Fuel consumption with higher final drives? it doesn't seem to have too much of an effect, pedal position is really what is going to determine your fuel consumption. I recommend a 4.44 FD to take out the lack lustre bottom end in our cars.
Not quite right here, you gain power with a light flywheel, it is very minimal, and probably won't feel it, but it is still there.Quote:
Originally Posted by na
A light flywheel will allow more power to be transferred to the wheels/ground as it needs less power to rotate its own weight.
power upgrades in s2ks are a joke, an aftermarket engine management is ideal for the early model s2ks 99-01 as they run quite rich factory. 02+ typically dyno 5-10kw higher due to a leaner more agressive mapping.
Short of doing forced induction, there isn't much more we can do.
oh wait, light wheels make a big difference. Our stock 16" are pretty heavy even though considered light for OEM. With tyres, they weigh about 18kg.
If you buy larger wheels, make sure you get the right profile. A even slight higher rolling diameter will effectively be meaning your driving with a lower (numerically) final drive.
I made a mistake of putting 235/45/17 on my lightweight 17" wheels - shit branded tyre too BF Goodrich - which actually ahve a bigger rolling diametre than other branded 235/45/17.
This is great info posted by a user who has already gone through these mods. Take advice people.Quote:
Originally Posted by jko2
Thanks Champ :thumbsup:
hey guys thanks for all the info.. its great help.. im still tossing between the 2.. lol.. after all that.. but leaning towards stock wheel now.. thanks heaps.. especially JKO2.. thanks alot for that info.. really got my mind around it..
Oops, I forgot this was the S2k section. My bad :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by jko2
hey guys, rather then opening another thread, might aswell ask here...
can anyone tell me whether the flywheel is a dual mass, or solid (i think thats what it's called)??
I'd say OEM s2k flywheel is a one piece flywheel.
Some aftermarket flywheels run 2 piece with removable friction plates that save taking the flywheel off for machining later down the track for example.
1 piece.
fndaza flywheels are two, with a replacable face - no biggy though.
i've actually got an exedy hyper single clutch kit (complete 4.8kg flywheel, 6 puck clutch, 1tonne pressure plate, bearing) - with two discs (one worn, one good - have photos of when new) if anyone is keen.
Very aggressive minimal slip clutch. really only suitable for people who are used to hard clutches.
Removable friction plate does not equal dual mass though.
stock s2k flywheel 6.1kg? thats damn light!.... I wouldn't bother changing it.
Go for 4.4 FD or 4.7FD, help it get into vtec faster. As for fuel consumption, should be able to squeeze more km out of a tank.
The TODA clutch has more springs in it, im actually getting more clutch buzz than before. The 3.8kg flywheel was an improvment in my opinion, it revs alot easier and was noticable. In regards to the revs dropping too fast, its never been an issue. As ive said before you cant go past changing the Final drive. I wouldnt recommend anything lower than 4.77. If ure hardcore give the J's racing 5.1 a shot :) The clutch kit + install should be around $1250 or so. A FD change will set u back a little over $2k. The final drive is worth every cent.