Automatic Transmission Oil cooler

i'm not sure man but SuperDave seems to know his stuff when it comes to the high end models parts. He should be able to give you the heads up on a few cars that have them as OEM parts.

but a few wreckers to try would be like he mentioned above toyota seca possiblly even supra and nissan 300zx

so maybe try a few toyota and nissan wreckers


edit: yeah man a stall converter is a torque converter with a modified stall point

also i'd mount the cooler over the aircon condensor as that wont block any of the radiators air.

also it wont transfer heat to the radiator either

Sweet.Thanks mate!

> Is the stall converter an upgraded torque converter?

Yes ... and no.

Cheaper high stall converters get their effect by creating more
slippage between the front and rear turbines.

Good ones are redesigned/sized.

High stall converters will affect your fuel economy and are primarily used to improve standing launches (aka drag racing).

Very high stall converters turn your car into a real dog in daily driving requiring
stalling the converter for all starts.

Not sure how effective they'd be in circuit racing.

A cheap and dodgy way of getting a high stall effect is to use a torque converter off a smaller vehicle which has the same input and output splines.
Jazz 1.3 or earlier 1.3litre Hondas perhaps.

Nick.

Good one Nick!
Just one question I need an answer too plz:
Should I mount it in front of the Air con OR Radiator?
Thx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ek4-guy

What where the fluid temp diffences between the plate & the pipe type coolers on your test nd were the test conditions identical.

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Was about 20*C difference with identical conditions of M1 driving. I do very little idling, which would then give the same temp reading. But at the end of the day if the budget only allows for the tube and fin cooler then it is going to be better then nothing. All in all this is a rather constructive thread without people saying buy a manual.

Beeza: Does the hose go to a metal loop or does it have a cooler built into the radiator?

I would recommend getting an OEM cooler from the wreckers instead of new as they have smaller inlet/outlets that match the factory hose better so you don't have to deal with hose size changes. I have a 300zx cooler sitting at home doing nothing if you can't find any or want it. Isn't perfect condition but the majority of the fins are straight.

Make sure you mount it correctly with the inlet/outlet facing up or if you mount it on it's side have the outlet at the top. This is to prevent air from getting trapped in the cooler. I have seen them mounted upside down before. I'm not a fan of mounting to the radiator, but does make it a lot easier to install!

If you mount the cooler in front of the radiators then it will have 100% efficency, but will reduce the efficeny of the radiators. Behind the radiators and the efficiency will be reduced. It is up to you where you want it mounted, but I would go in front.

> Should I mount it in front of the Air con OR Radiator?

It this is directed at me, then it's probably misguided.
I'd guess the air con, cause surely you won't be using that at the track?:)

Superdave seems to have done extensive testing, so would be the auto tranny man.

[Q: Superdave] did you record any temps with the OEM heat exchanger?

I can't help thinking the OEM oil to water heat exchanger is going to be reasonably effective and help with warm ups on cold days too.

[Beeza] might be an idea to pick up and auto box from somewhere and get practice at rebuilding it.
If something goes wrong at the track and its your daily driver, then its gonna be expensive trying to get it repaired pronto.

Besides, they're giving auto boxes away aren't they :):)

I imagine if you can re-hone the clutch pack surfaces, which have been worn out/smooth over the years, it'd go a long way.

Is there an Ozhonda auto write-up coming along?

Nick.

i've only ever had experience with oil coolers but the concepts the same.
You want the cooler in front of the a/c as 1 its not that big and 2 it won't effect your a/c at all. Your radiator on the other had needs as much cooling as possible. Generally you mount it with a couple of cm distance from the a/c to allow air to come past the a/c also.

Superdave: It has the cooler built into the radiator.Looks like it runs along the bottom of the radiator.Dunno if this pic shows it or not.If another angle is better,I'll get another pic:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...2/DSCF1742.jpg

I would snap that oil cooler up in a jiffy.Only thing is I got mass air ducting hoses running all through the front that I will have to move if I go ahead and install it.Let me have a ponder on this one.I'll see if there's an easy place to fit it in where I don't have to do to much redesigning :)

Nick: Yeah I was thinking if/when I tack it,to have a spare Tranny ready to go.Thanks for the advice.

Limbo:Thanks mate.How's the new exhaust? Must be psyched for BOOOOOOOST!!! :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

Superdave: It has the cooler built into the radiator.Looks like it runs along the bottom of the radiator.Dunno if this pic shows it or not.If another angle is better,I'll get another pic

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I see now. Just block those hose barbs off at the radiator end and run the hose from the tranny to where ever you want the cooler.

As far as operating temperatures for transmission fluid, probably best to contact one of the manufacturers. I'd recommend asking Motul as they gave me the temp range for their oil, which I use anyway, while everyone else didn't get back to me. Run the car hard for a bit and then see what temperature the oil gets to to see if you actually do need the cooler.

Great Idea!
Would I have to tap/drill a hole in the transmission to hook one up?

Try and avoid doing that as putting the hole in the case will allow metal into the gearbox. The best way to do it would be to put on inline. But due to the hose size it would restrict too much flow. Two options that come to mind is to measure the transmission case temperature (unsure of just how acurate this will be, but might be close enough to scope it out) or to go to a diesel mechanic and get them to make something up that could sit inline that wont block too much flow. I had something similar setup before I put in some proper sensor points and it had an annoying slow leak and cost like $50 without fittings. I'll see what temp my engine sump gets to and see how that compares to the temp readings I get to see if that gives a close enough measurement for you tomorrow.

Thanks mate.I think I'll first do this then monitor the tempreture to see if I need to install a cooler.It will be good to have a tempreture guage in there for the long term anyways.
Like U said,I'll take it to a mechanic of some sort...I know a good auto electrican :)