Those valve adjustment tools make life so much easier. Thats almost identical to the snap-on 1 which is about $130
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Those valve adjustment tools make life so much easier. Thats almost identical to the snap-on 1 which is about $130
It'd probably only be about $40 landed here. I might grab one! :)
Tried = Failed! :(Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
Going to hit it tomorrow with 1000ft/lb rattle gun.Quote:
Originally Posted by TODA AU
Now tightening it is another issue!
Rattle gun? Loctite?
As per torque specs. Think its about 78ft pound or 80 ft pounds??? Not much at all. Its the same torque specs as the flywheel bolts.
Loctite not needed. Just torque it up right.
If you have the right tool, crank pulley piss easy to take off.
I don't have the tool :(
According to the workshop manual the torque spec is 177nM :|
crank pully is 180lb/ft fatboys!
omgzilla - i use a bout a 2m length of 8mm dia nylon rope, inserted into the number 4 cylinder through the sparkplug hole with the piston at BDC,
then turn the crank until the rope gets coiled up in the combustion chamber.
then i use a 6ft breaker bar to loosen the crank pulley bolt.
but do so at your own risk.
Thanks for the tip tinkerbell.
I've got a T&E Tools 50mm Hex Crank Pulley tool on order - arrives tomorrow. :)
Will report back once i've (hopefully) got it off!
Ok so I got the crank pulley tool...
I put a 1/2" bar on the crank pulley tool and rested it against the ground. Then put 2 small 1/2" extensions on the crank pulley bolt socket (19mm) and put my 3/8" breaker bar on the extensions (with 1/2" to 3/8" step down adaptor), on the end of that I put my 3ft pipe so I could get some decent leverage. Got about 45 degrees of flex and then SNAP! - The knuckle broke right off my 3/8" breaker bar :(
Tried again, this time using the pipe to hold the crank pulley tool, rested on the ground. Then put the 1/2" breaker bar (about 3ft) on the end of the (2 small) extensions. Again I get about 45 degrees of flex and its still not budging!
I'm a bit worried about shearing the thing off now...
I'm using a little trolley thing as a pivot point at the end of the extensions where they meet the breaker bar knuckle.
I'm pretty sure i'm going to have to try and get a decent length single extension happening. I reckon i'm losing alot of force by having two smaller extensions. The tool is doing its job I guess, the thing must just be insanely tight!
I'll try getting the big single extension, failing that - it's going back together and i'm taking it into work and getting a 1,000ft/lb rattle gun onto it!
So pissed of right now!
have you sprayed with Penitrine or WD-40?
you need a 5ft or more breaker bar extension.
just slowly ease it down, do not bounce it!
start the bar at about 11o'clock and it should get to about 9 oclock before it cracks...
two smaller extensions are fine (high quality of course), that is what i use,
it is the leverage on the breaker bar that is important, that is why i say 5ft extension plus... (i dont know you size, so maybe more if you are skinny like me - or get a fat bloke to do it, seriously!)
just dont bounce it!
i have used a 12ft extension once to break a stubborn axel nut loose before -using a standard 1/2in breaker bar - so they can take the force, just not any boucing...
good luck...
Thanks tinkerbell.
I'm 6'4" and about 87kg's so i'm far from a lightweight. I had all my weight on it and the bar is about 3 foot.
I think i might have to get a bigger breaker bar!
I've spray heaps of WD-40 on it - i kept putting a bit more spray on it like half an hour before attempts.
ha ha!
sweet, well you WILL be able to do it - no worries, jsut get a loooong bit of pipe (5ft+), and pull slowly down from 11 oclock... it WILL crack, just hold on tight & do it slowly but steady...
Will give it a go mate, thanks again.
(+Rep)