sooo when are you going to attempt this?
if this is the first time taking off the timing belt, the bolt may be a ****, i will aso suggest, changing the cam seals and crank seals.
the tensioner and bolt isn't really needed.
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sooo when are you going to attempt this?
if this is the first time taking off the timing belt, the bolt may be a ****, i will aso suggest, changing the cam seals and crank seals.
the tensioner and bolt isn't really needed.
going to attempt hopefully next weekend... or I may get Roy to help me out if he can... he works with you now i think (bro of my team manager).Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
cam seals i already changed along with the rest of the rocker ones when i got the car...
crank seal... i need the tool to remove the bolt right? and which tight bolt do you speak off?
Beeza: thats true... i put it there in combo of fan switch/ rad cap/ thermo to reduce temps as i rev my car a lot... just trying to learn my lesson from my cooling issue days with nissan... also primarily caused by the rad cap which killed almost every hose and seal in the car :/
nah, the crank seal sits behind the crank gear.
the crank pully tool is good, if your going to use a breaker bar and leverage.
a impact gun will come in handy sometimes as well.
the tight bolt is the crank pully bolt.
lol.
your gonna have fun if this is your first time doing it, same as roy.
lol.
and yes, roy does work with me now.
damn i knew it... i asked his sister on my behalf duno if hes keen.. shes hot btw n she knows it haha.. half chinese/danish.Quote:
Originally Posted by destrukshn
should i just bring it in to you guys to service? not comfortable with the crank seal part... honda's are tad bit of a bitch for me to work on in terms of tight bolts or hard to reach areas
So what does a cold air loop mean :) uses more fuel?
closed loop uses the ECU tune for WOT. open loop is generally when the engine is cruising and a/f is adjusted via O2 sensor input.Quote:
Originally Posted by beeza
add me to msn man, we'll talk.
lol
Ah,cheers.
> Thanks all. any civic manual w/ B16a engine will do yeah?
Helm's by a long way.
Used OEM might be a good choice.
Haynes is more for casual weekend stuff, spark plugs and wiper blades etc.
Nick.
My advice to everyone with Water Pump Leak:
- If you have to top up everyday or two, REMOVE THE THERMOSTAT if your going to drive it for a while before getting it fixed
- DO NOT be tight-arse and keep filling with water if you can't afford to fix it ASAP
Because:
- The system can't maintain pressure because of waterpump leak, your engine will overheat and the high temp increase in water pressure will escape through the leak instead of opening the thermostat... even if you have a low temp thermo. It's better to run the engine a bit cooler than let it overheat, i now have sudden cylinder 3 pressure drop.. hopefully it's just the head gasket instead of a warped head!!
- This icy morning today, my car overheated because the water in the radiator froze and couldn't circulate anyway.
that suxs. So are you going to fix it now?
not yet, just not going to drive it until my build starts.. still calculating CR and how i'm going to get what value then pick the 'right cams' :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson