gee.. i've given each one of you a +rep recently so no rep for j00 lol
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gee.. i've given each one of you a +rep recently so no rep for j00 lol
just out of interest are u running a temp gauge?
if so what are u seeing with those in place?
nope but cluster temp gauge, when car was perfectly fine temp sat stable between 1/4 and halfway.. when it was stock it sat closer to halfway.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
BUT if it matters my fuel consumption observations in sequence of mods degraded as follows (per 42l when light comes on):
stock = ~450-480km
fan switch + thermo = ~400-420km (which i consistently get now)
spoon chip (lol) = ~280-300km
yeah,i'd prob look at taking them out again,ud prob be hitting that 20% fuel marker quite regularly in these colder months,if your regularly running around giving it a bit.Even 76degC lowload open loop its still at about 8% fuel,not that these conditions occur very frequently.Quote:
Originally Posted by dsp26
yeah will do!! i should've asked you about those readings earlier when you mentioned the duty cycle stuff. thanks:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
keeping in theme with fan switches
exactly where do u install a fan switch on the radiator is it the outlet neck or end tank the bottom one itself ?!?!
In our engine, we run Stock Fan Switch and Stock Thermostat, we do have an oil cooler and a full length radiator. We do not have overheating issues even after 5 hard continuous laps. At the last ozhonda track day, most of the time, the car was out for the entire 15 minute sessions cover at least 10 laps. We also drive to and from the track. Very reliable.
none of em... it's on the thermostat housing.. on the b series anyway...Quote:
Originally Posted by Snoop_gee
agree with e240
i beat the living crap outta my engine for 12 straight laps the other day & temp issues were non existent,admittedly it is a stock engine though.
did the same at the same time with a actual stock engine with stock thermostat , fan switch and coolant etc , and temp still wasnt ever an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
OEM parts and fluids when properly maintained are fine.
The only way to overheat a untouched engine is to drive in reverse for a few minutes and watch the temp gauge soar.
sorry i should of said its for the K seriesQuote:
Originally Posted by dsp26
ok maybe you gents can shed some light...Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
i've since replaced the low temp with a 90*C item... now my coolant is always boiling and overflows the overflow... i have tried:
- water only
- 25% coolant premix
- ~40% coolant mix
all boil. thermostat is not seized because both hoses are the same temp plus i also have a 1.3bar rad cap
it's not the head gasket coz its new and theres no traces of water in oil and vice versa.
on another note though my car feels like it struggles and i rev it past 6krpm despite feeling stronger than stock.. i've always had the suspicion that the dc2r muffler i have on the car is causing a massive restriction or it's just shot because of the horrible sound it makes.... i know a backpressured system also heats up the engine a lot more.. could this be the issue?