with anything that is meant to resist forces acting on it (strut bars, tie bars) by adding rigidity to the chassis, it should be installed with no load.
That's how i did it on my ek1. and the stiffer chassis was noticeable immediately.
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with anything that is meant to resist forces acting on it (strut bars, tie bars) by adding rigidity to the chassis, it should be installed with no load.
That's how i did it on my ek1. and the stiffer chassis was noticeable immediately.
And I mounted both my front and rear tower braces with the chassis sitting on the springs, and in both cases the stiffer chassis was noticable immediately...
Having said that, I haven't yet jacked it up and reset the mounts, so I can't say from experience whether this is better ot not...
What does 'too much' pre-load mean? There is either zero pre-load, partial pre-load, or full pre-load. 'Too much' preload sounds like you might have gone past zero preload into negative pre-load, i.e. the brace is actually forcing the towers apart?
Makes zero sense to me! If you remove the threads in the bar, then the fittings will just slide in the bar, the effect being to not have a brace at all, even though one is fitted...
Exactly. It was my first strut brace :p
Well... If you wound up enough tension in the end links then there will be a degree of 'stiffness' in the bar. And aren't bars meant to reduce inwards flex of the towers, not outwards? As I hinted though, I didn't really believe the guy so hence my bar remains unmolested.
So is it... jack the car up or don't worry about jacking the car?
don't jack the car up and install strut brace.
if you jack the chassis flexes.