cars shaking on acceleration?

well been paying closer attention the last couple days
seems to be easily replicated around the 3500-4000rpm mark in either second or third gear

will probably take it for a balance this weekend when i take another set of rims to get some new rubber thrown on

will report back then with hopefully some good news :)

edit; did a bit more reading, dug out this thread which seems to be my problem too
sorta meshes in with my knocking scare and suspicion of the cv joint bearings failing
anyone got a couple spare b series drive shafts they wanna help me trouble shoot with? :p

dont think it would be the wheels unbalanced

most likely to be an engine mount

tried checking for water in the sparkies?
water in the sparkies wont cause misfire but an earlier fire. itll start shuddering.
drive normally. the car seems to hesitate. shudder. then feel like vtak kicked in hard at 4grand rpm.
if that described your problem exactly.
check ignition system.
especially with sparkies and leads.
as ive said on another thread.
take sparkies out, clean em. blow air into the leads that connect to the sparkies. and re test.
if its gone. then buddy, you just saved your self a hassle and couple of bucks.

if you get shuddering at idle it cant ever be related to a wheel/suspension part.
its not logical for a steering/suspension part to cause engine vibrations at stationary periods.

have fun =]

baeshin; probably not, cheap to eliminate though. engine mounts look okay, rear and torque ones are solid, gearbox and passenger top look fine too when i checked yesterday

omg.jai xd; changed between different sparkies(set of copper and platinum) did notice it settled a bit with the platinum ones but did eventually come back which is why i came up with the theory of the ignition issue in the first place then thought that the timing might be a bit out
resistance of the cables seem okay(ngk ones) and i'm getting some new sparkies tomorrow. probably give the spark plug holes a quick shot of brake cleaner and let it rry and see how i go tomorrow.
no shuddering at idle, only while moving between 3-4000rpm in second and third and probably around that rpm range in fourth and fifth(high speeds on the m4)
sorta did notice it the most after hitting the track back in june though.
no sudden vtakkkk yo kick in any range, revving seems smooth through the rev range, just annoying that the entire car shakes during acceleration

strangely enough only the chassis would shake, steering is fine and the car tracks straight
going to crawl under and give the cables and stuff a clean tonight and nip up the suspension bolts.

while on the topic of ignition, recommended that i take off the dizzy cap and have a lookie underneath? quick shot of brake cleaner perhaps?

if its chassis vibrating then its a mount/torque rod issue.
one of the components holding the engine/gearbox in place has to be split.

and as to cleaning dizzy.
electric components. recommend using contact cleaner (contact-OL).
wudnt wanna risk setting back a dizzy.

yeah i thought as much, the only thing out of the ordinary that i can see at the moment is minute play in the passenger side tie rod and the driver side lower ball joint boot is leaking a bit of grease

well, anything i can visually check for if i take off the dizzy cap? cleaning's out of the question until i hit jaycar tomorrow, just looking for stuff i can do tonight

midnight mechanic ftw

dont think so. honda dizzys are full of gizmos.
youd need light and proper knowledge.
id leave that to last.

since you put it that way. check your "o'clock" points. 12 n 6. 3 n 9 oclock on the wheels. 12 n 6 referring to baljoint movement.
3 n 9 referring to tie rod/steering rack movement.
if theres excessive movement then replace the part that corresponds with the test you did.
but as i said. suspension/steering component wont make the chassis vibrate when you stationary.
it doesnt deaden vibration in anyway. but since you brought that topic up. check it out.
had a car come in at the workshop i work at with a fcukded ball joint. (eurothrash - renault)
cause of one ball joint, control arm, steering rack, suspension, link rods, discs, sway bar, and bumper needed replacing.
btw .. it popped off while the customer was drving. hence why the parts needed replacing.

think you misunderstood.. my filled engine mounts explain the vibrations at idle which i don't give a crap about.. i was just replying to limbo's comment about the vibrations from solid mounts
it's the shaking while moving which is the problem
hence 3000-4000rpm range in second and third
and 3000-4000rpm range in fourth and fifth on freeways

could be ur driveshafts.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fabezzz

i think its vtec kikin in y0

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piss off, don't need your shit in my thread


either way i tried some old platinum sparking in had lying around from when i first got the motor, seemed to dull down the shaking but not completely gone
will clean sparky cables and try new plugs tomorrow and see how i go :)

vtecmachine could very much so be right, i mean i've never had one fall off before but who knows.
i did notice it much more after a trackday so it could be that, so since i'll be at a tyre shop tomorrow it wouldn't hurt to get them balanced for a few bucks

I'm also a noob but...shaking is due to a moving part(s) which is loose. so try to isolate the movings parts and it'll help narrow down which 'part' of the car is causing it.

so, does your car shake when you're stationary in the 3-4000rpm range? or only when moving? (so press accelerator whilst stationary and in neutral). if it shakes, then it's probably some component of the engine...and if it doesnt shake, then look for the other stuff (driveshafts etc).

and if its your tyre/wheels. then revs wouldnt be the predictor of the 'shaking'.
the speed of your wheels would determine how much they shake.