lol i got 450 out of 91ron... and about 550 from premium
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lol i got 450 out of 91ron... and about 550 from premium
i'd personally never use e10. ruins the life of the engine doesn't it..
i really dont know how yous get these figures.. i get 400 from a tank of v-power or bp ultimate... i dont thrash my car aswell..and its 50/50.. free way/suburban..=S
do you warm your car up in the morning? or start the engine and go?
i get approx 600 per tank too. from 98, synergy or vpowa
yeah well i'm doin about 2/3 tanks of this e10 then i'll see how many k's i get and compare it to 95 unleaded n premium 98 ron see what difference there is
warwick - you 50/50 normal and freeway and only get 400 wtf?
start then go.. but i do not revv the car.. =S
yeh.. i seriously think there is something wrong with my car.. i do not push it at all.. -_-".. out of a full tank.. i let vtec kick in about twice.. =S.. other than that.. low revvs all the way.. =S.. I use cruise control on the free way tho.. does that make a difference?
i get 400-450 from my fd1 nowadays.. i guess it's the cold that's reducing our milage..
running on cold engines..
not sure who else has felt it but when the car's on cruise control it doesnt feel as smooth as it is with ur foot.. when the road goes up/down it tries too hard to accellerate thus wasting fuel and even as its cruising along its pushin the car a little bit much =S
yeh..i feel the same..but i drive home really late at night.. so i cbf looking at the speedo so i use cruise control.. =S
YEAH! my engine never seems to be able to warm up nowadays... I want summer back... actually autumn better...Quote:
Originally Posted by edmbranch
vti = what vtec lol ?Quote:
Originally Posted by warwick108
the 1-3krpm fuel savin vtec lololol
he means i-vtec and the more you kick it in the better fuel consumption lolQuote:
Originally Posted by williamwong
the i-vtec kicks in at 2+ revvs.. but it doesnt mean it saves fuel, it means it eats less fuel than if i-vtec wasnt there..
"VTEC-on on the R18A means it is running low cams. More importantly is VTEC engages the low-cams only if the right conditions for fuel economy are acheived. If they are never acheived, like when we are driving aggressively for the whole trip for e.g., VTEC will never open on the R18A. Thus it is a completely different idea from the VTEC implementations of old where VTEC will always open after a certain rpm, irregardless of the driving conditions"
fuel economy operating range between 1000 - 3500 rpm, i was wrong
The I-VTEC system on the FD1 is totally different to performance oriented VTEC systems. It is designed to work under low load with light throttle openings, the parameters being governed by the ECU alone.
Once you learn how to use the system the FD1 is capable of producing remarkable fuel economy. I had an FD1 Auto for 2 1/2 years & 60,000km, over which time I averaged 6.78L/100km with a best recorded of 5.8L/100 & a worst of 7.62L/100.
There is no noticeable difference in using 95 0r 98RON fuel, while using E10 decreases power by approximately 10% & at the same time increasing fuel consumption by around the same margin. So using E10 is false economy.
There are 2 things that govern fuel economy, 1 - The environment in which the car is driven & 2 - the way the driver uses his right foot. In the 2 1/2 years I owned my FD! Auto I never once had the low fuel warning light come on under 600km. Now as a Comparison, lets compare the Fuel Economy of my Current CU2 Euro Auto - just over 16,000km with an average fuel consumption of 7.2L/100km with a best to date of 6.47L/100km. So a current model Accord Euro uses approximately 0.5L/100km more than an FD1 Auto. I have spreadsheets available on all fuel used in both cars.
Have a read of this article.
http://asia.vtec.net/Engines/RiVTEC/index.html
wow 600kms per tank in an auto fd.
WTF.. u can do 7.2ltres on ur cu2..wow...impressive mate. "i shall never beep the slow driver infront".. but instead.. i should follow him all the way to the city..=)
the proper way to save your fuel
1. check tyre pressure
2. service your car regularly
3, avoid carrying unnecessary load
4. avoid traffic, use highway if possible
5. dont drive aggresively
my last tips are keep your fuel tank full, dont' try driving your car till fuel warning on lol, because the chance are the dirt from your fuel tank would flowing into your injector and blocking it.
I go the opposite way, I wait till tow fuel light comes on (or close to it) so I always have fresh fuel & I have never had a prob with blocked fuel filters or dirty injectors
600 was the norm ..... no wow factor in it, from memory I passed 700 a couple of times. Note I still have the spreadsheet on economy for my FD1, anyone wants a copy just pm me your email add.Quote:
Originally Posted by aero
It's not a matter of driving slow, but how you use the throttle. I always drive at the posted speed limit in daylight, drop back a little at night due to wildlife on the roads. Note 7.2 with the CU2 is an average over 16000km, several times I have been under 7L/100km. It is possible to do 1,000km on a tank with the CU2 ..... that is WOW ....lolQuote:
Originally Posted by warwick108
Incorrect but as bodass has saidQuote:
Originally Posted by warwick108
i-VTEC is activated when not much fuel is needed hence runs on lower cams. It ranges between 1000RPM - 3800RPM.
i-VTEC may not engage depending on how you drive. If you got a heavy foot then more than likely it will never engage because the car thinks its never needed to go to the lower cams because you keep using the power the car has.
I do notice sometimes when crusing on a freeway, if you need to overtake there will be a slight "bump" in the engine which is the cams changing back over to the norm so that power is achieved. Its a very slight bump but some of you guys might have noticed it as well.
2006 R18A
3-stage VTEC
Examine the SOHC VTEC and SOHC VTEC-E implementations. The clever Honda engineers saw that it is a logical step to merge the two implementations into one. This is in essence the 3-stage VTEC implementation. 3-stage VTEC is implemented on the R18A 1.8 SOHC engine in which the VTEC-E mechanism is combined with the power VTEC mechanism.
Many of us probably has laughed at the poor ignorant layman who said "I want power AND economy from my Honda". We know of course that power and economy are mutually exclusive implementations. Honda decided not to abide by this rule. Now, with 3-stage VTEC, we get BOTH power and economy !.
The diagram below illustrates the 3-stage VTEC implementation. The intake rocker arms have two VTEC pin actuation mechanisms. The VTEC-E actuation assembly is located above the camshaft while the VTEC (power) actuation assembly is the standard wild-cam lobe and rocker assembly.
Below 3500rpm and with gentle accelerator pressure, neither pin gets actuated. The engine operates in 12V mode with very good fuel combustion efficiency. When the right foot gets more urgent and/or above 3500rpm, the upper pin gets actuated. This is the VTEC-E mechanism at work and the engine effectively enters into the '2nd stage'. Now R18A 3-stage works in 16V mode (both intake valves works from the same mild cam-lobe).
Stage 2 operates from around 3500rpm to 5200rpm. When the rpm exceeds 5200rpm, the VTEC mechanism activates the wild cam-lobe pushing the engine into the '3rd stage', the power stage. Now the engine gives us the full benefit of its 140ps potential !
The 3-stage I-VTEC R18A engine is used on the current 8th generation Civic. The 3500rpm cutover from lean-burn to normal 16V operation in fact varies according to load and driver requirements. With gentle driving, lean-burn can operate up to 3500rpm or higher. The essence of 3-stage I-VTEC is power AND economy implemented on a 1.8l SOHC PGM-Fi engine. Many people mistake 3-stage I-VTEC as a "superior" evolution of the power oriented DOHC VTEC implementation, describing DOHC VTEC as "the older 2-stage VTEC" and implying an inferior relationship. This is totally wrong because DOHC VTEC is tuned purely for high specific output and sports/racing requirements. 3-stage I-VTEC is in truth an evolution of SOHC VTEC and VTEC-E, merging the two implementations into one.
off course you never had a problem unless if you put rocks inside your fuel tank hehehe. so if you like cleaning up all the dirts from the bottom of the tank then you should do it regularlyQuote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
my opinion to keep fuel tank full is also to avoid the air going to much into your full tank. The reason is because unleaded fuel can easly be vapourised into the air. I used to clean my cylinder block with unleaded and air compressor so i know
in my 40 years in the motor trade petrol has always been used as a cleaner, there is nothing better for cleaning engine components. Fuel will not vaporize if it is correctly sealed.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodaas
As for putting rocks in a fuel tank.....that's a new one on me. what advantage would you expect to gain?
There is an advantage it makes you understand what's the different between now and problems on the long run. If you want to see the problem now just grab a fistfull of sands or rocks and put it into your full tank then drive it till your fuell warning is on lolQuote:
Originally Posted by buddah51au
Anyway each peoples have different opinions if you think your's opinion are better and recommended then do it noone will stop you :thumbsup:.
I think after 40 Years as a licensed mechanic I know a little about cars & how to maintain them. As to your qualifications on giving sound advice I am unsure, but each to his own.Quote:
Originally Posted by bodaas
hence sarcasm..?