DIY tappet adjustment

the measurements are for a stone cold engine.make sure it has been left not running for at least a couple of hours. its more difficult on DOHC,but its definitely doable. you measure between the cam lobe and the rocker.those measurements that you have are correct,correct for all b series vtec.i didnt have a the special tool and i didnt make one,just used socket to undo the nut,turn a lil with screwdriver to the right feel with the feeler guage then do up the nut,check and redo it until the feeler gauge feels good after the nut has been tightened,you get the hang of it after 10 or so goes

^ good stuff thanks champ

I did this not long ago on my B20, the DIY helped heaps.

In regards to the 'special tool', I couldn't find one anywhere and so I tried to find a 10mm 90' spanner that would fit in the limited space - with no luck. The last shop I went to I ended up finding a 10mm 'brake bleed' spaner which fits perfectly!

Thanks John! It's so easy to understand by your write up.Especially cause I got a SOH Banger :)
When my tappets are adjusted my car runs so much better.So I'm gonna be doing this every 10,000km now I know how to do it.I spent a week at my mechanics over the last month and learnt heaps.But I didn't do this.Now I gotta try by myself.I really gotta invest in some tools.I want an air gun.
Oh Thanks again John!!!

glad you found it usefull

"CYL # 1 is TDC ( top dead center ) red section, you can grab the top of the tappet and lift up/down to confirm, it should move up/down slightly. "

I was under the impression that the adjustments need to be done on the compression stroke not the exhaust stroke ( where the lifters are rocking)

someone confirm this?

adjustment cannot be done when the valves are rocking

.. fair enough, you yourself said that you should be able to grab the tappets and they will lift a little bit - meaning they are rocking?

that does not mean its rocking

if you can lift the tappets a little bit on cylinder #1 then cyl #4 is rocking

rocking means the inlet and exhaust valves are rocking between the exhaust / intake stroke.

it has nothing to do with the slack in the tappet

yep fair enough, thats what I was asking , because the only stroke on where the valves should be rocking would be the exhaust stroke, none the less, all you need to look out for is for the rocker arm to be at the bottom of the lobe before adjustment, cant go wrong

PS : making the adjustment should be done on the compression stroke which you have indicated in the diy :thumbsup:

I done this a couple of days ago.It was real easy and the car is running AWESOME!

Thanks for the write up matey. Did it this morning. Just giving it some time to cure. I didn't exactly follow your guide as there was the CRX Workshop Manual from CRXUK, which I followed. Compared yours to the manual and it's literally identical. Started the car for <1min and it did sound a LOT more quiet. Not sure if the adjustments have been done on my car before lol. Appreciate your effort.

good work

no need to let it cure,

put the rocker cover back on ( with honda bond on the corners of the seal ) and fire her up.

Bump! 4 a Great DIY that everyone should learn to do,it makes a big difference to the performance of your car.And it really is easy to do.
I will be tracking in a few days so I will be doing this again.

is it necessary to replace the gaskets for the cam cover and spark plugs? my car is at 222,000km and these gaskets were last changed at 199,000kms.

not after 22000kms,, they will last over 80000 KM easy

so i just gotta be careful when prying off the valve cover, as to not damage/cut the gasket?
also the mechanic that replaced the valve cover gasket, used liquid gasket all the way around the gasket. is this need?

You will need to apply gasket goo around the corners especially where the cam seal is and around the dizzy area as those tend to leak easy.

Gasket goo from supercheap or any auto shop.

sweet thanks mate. i got Permatex Ultra Grey. i got a new cam plug aswell, seeing as its leaking again from when i tried to fix last time.

The old gasket sealant will just pull off easily.Wipe it/clean it up with a rag and apply the new gasket sealant.Then tighten the valve cover bolts in the correct order.Just google an image search.

i have the workshop manual for the EG, all good. nice to help other but, cheers for that.

Good good :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

http://b16a2.kicks-ass.net/automotiv...tech_guide.htm


you mean B16A2

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link doesn't work anymore =(

Anybody got the specs for it, to post up?

Also, what are the HOT and COLD specs?

thanks

there are no hot specs, if you read the first page you will see it stats they must be done cold.

Ill see if I can fix the links

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

there are no hot specs, if you read the first page you will see it stats they must be done cold.

Ill see if I can fix the links

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Thanks for that.

I've used the cold specs stated for DOHC B Series engines throughout the thread.

That`s it then mate,cause there are no hot OR cold specs,just specs.And you do it when the engine is cold.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

That`s it then mate,cause there are no hot OR cold specs,just specs.And you do it when the engine is cold.

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Thanks matey

Done and done.
Engine was left overnight. lol

Good one!

Did you do it yourself or watch how it was done,what engine is it on?

Do you notice the difference in performance?

great write up! i really wan't to attempt this myself as these valves are pretty loud on my 95 accord vti-s but i am afraid im gonna stuff something up =(
is there anyone out there that can help me out?

just make sure you dont tighten them too hard other wise you may break the nut/bolt. i was lucky nothing broke up me, cause i did it up just slightly to much which made the tappet come of it perch hahha. all good fixed in the end, just had to double check all the clearances again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by yiannixanthos

great write up! i really wan't to attempt this myself as these valves are pretty loud on my 95 accord vti-s but i am afraid im gonna stuff something up =(
is there anyone out there that can help me out?

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Where ya at?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

Where ya at?

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melbourne (stkilda), vic

O,nice,I was just there! I'm in QLD..

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...hillip-Island!

Can anyone help out?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by beeza

O,nice,I was just there! I'm in QLD..

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...hillip-Island!

Can anyone help out?

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damn, if only u were here now! =(

yes can anyone lend a hand?

I've been told for bout 2months now my car is very noisy and yes ive noticed an anoying note change.. the engine sound like it has a slight rattle at idle and the note in vtec now sounds like shit... my boss suggested i get the valve lash adjusted..

Now i found this DIY, things are gunna look up..
Day off wednesday so looks like i just made plans :)
ill let ya know on wed night how i go.... good write up ecu man....

Thanks bud. This is the next thing on my list. Awesome to log in and see this at the top of the DIY list.
Thanks :D

I am in Brissie can help with tappet adjustment if you want. .. pm me

my car pings when it's cold but runs smoothly when warmed up, is this a tappet issue?

how much would Honda dealership charge to adjust them? lol..... more than an arm and leg id imagine
An also, since im always busy, how much would the average mechanic charge to adjust them?

Thanks Guys

Red_EG4 I dont think adjusting your tappets will resolve pinging issues, that would be more of a timming issue

Mugen_CTR you would have to call and ask, every place has different hourly rates. should not take more than an hour for civic integra ect

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ECU-MAN

Thanks Guys

Red_EG4 I dont think adjusting your tappets will resolve pinging issues, that would be more of a timming issue

Mugen_CTR you would have to call and ask, every place has different hourly rates. should not take more than an hour for civic integra ect

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one thing i notice is that the tdc for every cylinder is in the power stroke. is this right ecu-man?

yes, it is

that means the valve train is rocking

what would cause my timing to be out?

also, I say pinging as that's what it sounds like to me. Once the car is warmed up the noise goes away.

Mine was at 2 deg BTDC for a year!! It should be at 12 deg BTDC,I have no idea how it got there but the car ran a lot better after it was fixed.So weird.

do the specs change if you have aftermarket cams?

use the stock clearnces unless the privider of you cams have given you different specs

running some buddyclub spec3+ cams, just checked out the website and it appears to be different specs

they say on a b18c1(same as our b18c2? should be the same for b series vtec though right?)
inlet is 0.008"
outlet is 0.009"
so about 0.001" looser than factory?

i should do this soon, my car is starting to sound like a diesel lol

Yes U should,it's not hard at all and makes your engine feel strong again!