DangQuote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
Warranty?
What power was she put'n out to damage the block?
Even the boost guys don't always sleevethe block
DangQuote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
Warranty?
What power was she put'n out to damage the block?
Even the boost guys don't always sleevethe block
Damn B20's gonna B20 lol. Maybe time to go all out and sleeve them walls to 86mm
Warranty etc is all sorted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
she pulled with CAI max 155fwkw with a cracked sleeve. LOL.
short ram = 149fwkw
lol ..too much money and time, cbf anymore with B20.. i even got a new Cometic HG 84.5mm which im just going to sell off...Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
its time for a new project.. :p (work in progress as we speak)
Good to hear :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
k24 in the works for sure
Sorry to hear that mate, hope you learnt a thing or two from the whole process !Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
K20 or K24 sounds good to me ..but i need to know which of the two will be better for potential power in the long run..Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
yeh i learnt not buy built motors... lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Was your B20 legally registered?Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
k24Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
srs, i wen't with jdm k20a, but i didn't know all that much about k series at the time, as much as i love the k20a i wish i went 2.4.
unless you plan on racing in under 2lt classes ect
didnt even get the chance to do all that - which is good in a wayQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
so u reckon K24 ftw?Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
was thinking along the K20Z from Type S?
apparently better for turbo over the K24 block in the long run...?
Its very hard to do a K24 legally manQuote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
Look into it first
k20z is goot for boost yes, one here in aus was making over 400 hp with rotrex c38-81 (or 91, can't remember), stock engine.
just go k24 with c38-91 with bost by gear for driveable 1-3 and wastegate to regulate peak boost. run on e85 with goot tune. way more then enough for the street. this is what i'd love to do.
plus if k24 goes pop no big deal, just buy another long block for fuk all and chuck it in.
I'm rotrex my K20AQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
can't wait heheh
Nice! you wont be dissapointedQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
yeh the main factor of the k24 is engineering ...esp nowadays with operation "KILOWATS" .. lol
so i think K20 (type S) ftw ..but will depend again on budget restraints.. as the fcken B20 cost me my many yrs of CC payback back to zero. lol
and if the K20 block ever dies, then pop in a K24 block for a super dooper ftw! lol
lol I know the feeling manQuote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
My current loan for my EP3 still has 8k for work owing from my old EG5 Turbo project hahah
Hoping for high 11'sQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
yeh same boat bro ...mortgage, other debts, 3 kids, single income earner - **** the list goes on .. LOL.. shit we do for happiness
Both a K20 and a K24 will require a eng cert going into a EM1 chassis. So same steps to get it registered, imo i'd go 2.4
Tru..Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Brightside
Prob is that the engineers also go by the engine displacement output power vs total brake power (safety) and emission testing.
So thw bigger the engine cc means the better the brakes should be.
Too much hassle.
But will a k20z shit on k24 both standard form in an ek/em?
Btw cant wait to see ur dc2 finished @ BYP workshop..
I've had experience with many K-Swaps, and i always prefer the K24 over a K20 swap, ESP for daily driving. Peak power isnt everything :P
as in just boltons and tune?
k24 will have similar peak power as k20, though it (2lt) wont have anywhere near as much grunt from 1000-6000 rpm
k24 is pretty much better in every way
chuck on 50vtc and tsx intake came, k20 oil pump and you'll have a ripper of an engine
plus.... your going from a 150kw b20, doubt you'd be all that impressed with a k20.
yep, loved the low end /midrange power on the gold byp k24 even though it was pretty basic. felt great to be pushed into your seat by 4k rpm. nice to drive in traffic minus the power steering (or lack of it lol)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Brightside
Even the standard IM and TB (budget setups) which will make somewhere around 135kwatw such as the old brown BYP DC2 daily (~130atw), i prefer over a k20a with a higher peak power, due to the low end.Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
As Jarrod said, RBC, 70mm TB, 50 deg VTC and k20 oil pump, and you will have one serious street car. :)
How are brakes effected since the test are at stopping the car 80km/hr? K-series engine isn't much heavier then a B series setup. Emission test should be ok since the K series engines are alot younger esp K24 which are 06/07.Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
K24 great for daily duties unless your planning to rev the guts out of a k20 everyday to get it anywhere.
Only reason y im leaning towards the k20;
1) redlines longer
2) better matched for my long term plan going the snail route.
3) if ever the k20 block blows, i would then frank it to the k24.. (if i decide to stay the NA route).
4) vtec sounds louder :p
Ok after so many chats and home work.. Ive leaned towards a k24 ftw!
nice!
So im hoping to get 150fwkw ... Well i hope so with the below supporting parts;
PRB IM port matched 70mm TB
50Deg VTC
650cc injectors
Works engineering fuel rail
Ktuned 4-2-1 headers
2.5inch zorst
Lightened flywheel
Tuned KPro on E85
Custom CAI
U reckon its achievable??
Wot are the figures ppl nowadays achieving on stock k24?
replace prb with rbc (or rrc if you got money to throw around)
replace 2.5" with 3"
easy 150kw, probably more.
mat it to an ep3r/dc5r gb and you'd be laughing.
Tru bro.. But cant afford no more mula for the rbc or rrc :(Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Ill be using 5sp gb.. Instead of the 6spd
And 3inch zorst would be at a later track when i decide to boost her.. Lol
Expect around 140-145 with those bolt ons.
What is all this CRAP about it's hard to engineer a K24? (or K series in general for you civics)
Have any of you actually tried and been down the path or even bothered to download the light vehicles regulations and read what's required?
I got my car engineered with absolutely NO problems. The engineers actually like the K swapped Hondas for their simplicity and design philosophy (good engine, good gearbox, good brakes, good chassis) - I have not seen one owner with a K series try to engineer the car with sub standard brakes, and if you do, you deserved to get reemed for being a tool. Fact is, all OEM brakes with a good setup will pass you engineering. Just make sure you have tyres that actually grip...
Regarding EPA - again... easy as shit. Make sure that airbox is closed, the fuel tank isn't venting to atmosphere, the rocker cover breather is plumbed accordingly and there is no reason for them to deny you. I have the EM240 drive cycle data logged in K-pro with me and I passed easily with a tune that was too rich. The guys are good.. they want to pass you, if you fail, it's no big drama, you just come back the next week. They were kind enough to let me sit in the car with the laptop and tune as they ran the test.. which is all over in a matter of minutes.
So for those, who are interstate or those who have absolutely no idea on the process, please.. do the community a favour and keep your weightless comments to yourself. I once upon a time believed all the crap about how hard it is to engineer a car, until I tried to do it...Stick to ADR/ASNZ standards and there is no reason you won't pass.
PS - All engineering signatories have been canned as of late, there are new regulations and signatories to be announced soon. (I haven't looked into it since, but this was the last I heard as of last month)
Here we go again...
Does this surprise you? What did you expect engineering to cost? $150 like your headgasket? By the engineering signing off the car he is essentially putting himself liable for your modifications, if you have an accident due to a failure of a component and that component was not ADR approved (can be engineered at the engineers discretion) well he gets done for it....hence the massive amount of money expected for you to pay.Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
Yes... does this surprise you again? It's their TIME... which normal person works for free in this world?Quote:
2) one engineer said, if u fail a category, fix it then Come back and it will be another charge. I was like wtf??
^ lol - please....did you call your friend down the street? If an engineer thinks "detune = lean" they don't deserve their signatory license (which is now invalid anyway). It's also offensive, or maybe you're that obtuse to understand that you completely disregarded my previous EPA comment where I had my car on the Botany EPA rolling road which is known as the worse station to get tested at (where that logic comes from I don't know..) I had a 3" exhaust, high flow cat, non standard intake and managed to pass with ease.Quote:
3) one engineer even said "once u have an exhaust, air filter automatically that fails your emission gases - no exception. So i said even detuning the ecu?? And he said yes which will make your car run very lean and yet still will fail. Put the stock zorst, filter setup then you should be sweet.. So i said fair enough.
LOL this one makes me laugh the most... you spent hours on the phone with an engineer who should be charging ~$150/hr for their time? LOL.Quote:
Ive spent hours on the phone and in person with these engineers and pretty much turned me off from conversions originally...
Take the immaturity off this board, this is for blatant illegal cars. If you have complied to the rules there is no reason for you to be done.Quote:
But ever since operation Kilowats is inplace, theyve decided this is our time to shine and make money from these car enthusiast.
Do me a favour and post up the 3 engineers you have been talking with, if I recognise the name, I will call them and speak with them to see why they refuse. I dealt with 2 engineers, chose one for reasons that the first guy was just too busy and I wrote my own report for the car to be signed off, I have a fair idea of what needs to be legal and what doesn't so I find this rather idiotic that you can't find someone to engineer your car without a hassle. Everyone in this industry knows the Hondas are a good car to engineer.
Honestly, we should start a new thread.
I still don't understand where half your comments are coming from?
Regarding your friends who keep getting knocked back by the EPA, who the hell tuned their car? There is no need for two cats.. half the problem is getting heat into the cat and if you're using the right one, tell them to look into CAT placement rather than jamming two together.. I can have four cats and still not work as good as one.
De-tuning the ECU will not pass you EPA....... you need to tune the car, and no, a lean tune will not pass you EPA either. Lean tunes = high levels of NOx.
If you need a hand with setting your car up for engineering, PM me...
^ oh but... I just realised you don't give a **** what I know, so stick to your ignorance and get reemed by the cops, idiot.
The future of this country is ****ed...
Chris is trying to help you op.
OP was about cooling issues not engineering a car.Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
But it did went astray from the OP and ended up on a off a OP topic.. Lol
LOL are you threatening him.
http://i.imgur.com/NsJee.jpg
y u idiot fight on internet
^ LOL ! The keyboard warrior is out.
I don't see how "Now that you have started it - IDGAF of what you know nor what you have experienced. as i said your lucky to get away with it. +1 rep for that" is in any manner "supportive" - that is blatant ignorance...
As Umad says, I came here to HELP you, but you obviously don't care what I have to say, or the rest of the board?
Also I might add, as an Engineer myself, guess what - seems that you just had another salty beginning. YOU must be the problem.
Now if you wake up to yourself and apologise for your offensive/childish comments, I'd appreciate it.
If you're wondering why I'm so defensive.. I know what half these engineers had to go through to get that piece of paper to let them be signatories for modified vehicles, it's not easy and we don't do things because we FEEL like it.
Lol lovin it!Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
now now girls
But man Engineering is not as simple as people think!
I've been through Engineering twice and emissions testing 7 times and only passed once hahah
Simple guide to passing after all I've dealt with
For emission (free just need to book)
Run stock ECU for the motor you'll installed (no tune)
Run stock cat and exhaust
Run stock 02 sensor
Run E85
I've tried the retune, detune route without luck!
Engineering ($800 to $1200)
Main thing is good brake upgrade
keep the rest of the car stock IMO including real air box and not stupid pod
Most peole do it wrong by moding the hell of their car and power tuning the new motor coze they can't wait :(
I'm still struggling...
A "power tune" shouldn't affect your emissions testing result as the driver is never really 100% throttle and high enough RPMs (for us to even get into vtec too), even if the tuner has opted for max power at cruising conditions, the fuelling won't be anywhere near ~12.8:1. (assuming peak energy mixture for gasoline)
What were the reasons for being knocked back with cat/exhaust, etc etc?
now thats exactly the answer i wanted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
so your saying running a base map with supporting stock parts installed - then it shouldnt be an issue.
excellent to ALL who shared their experiences.:thumbsup:
-1 except for those who posted trolling pics rather than helpful info .. LOL :p
Anyways emissions :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
so many fails
Mostly they said cat/exhaust would be the likely reason or cheap 02 sensor
Correct but stock cat/exhaust and 02 sensor is a mustQuote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
I bet you that if you turn up there with aftermarket exhaust, intake and the stock ecu, you will fail.
IVTECI - You're obviously best mates with BYP, why don't you get them to tune the car before you go to EPA? simple!
YupQuote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
you need max cat flash with the added displacement to pass emissons and nothings better than OEM
Mine was added power being turbo but its the same thing
Thats what i was thinking. Put base tune and see what the emission gasses puts out. Then if all passed, then power tune as planned.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
Should still work with all the mods n crap on?
Max cat flash?? Wtf is dat?? LolQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
U mean a higher CEL rating cat?
means the cat getts hot enough to burn off the extra crap!Quote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
most aftermarked high flow units don't accomplish this
So how does one get or achieve this max cat flash??
Sorry noob to the above
its the quality of the OEM units and the size also makes a differenceQuote:
Originally Posted by IV73CI
hence why I said to use stock cat and exhaust
Farkk..Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Dun have any of those.. Oh wells see how it goes
No replacement for displacement
Tune the car at 14.7:1 or slightly leaner to get as much heat into the cat, but if you don't heat it up enough and you run that mixture you might fail based on NOx readings.
Cat placement plays a big part, with our K series headers it's hard to get a good cat placement, but try get it as close to the engine as possible...
a bad radiator cap will cause one to do this,it allows too much of he coolant complete by the cap,and works the over circulation jug over on it,id change that first,its also the most affordable,if that doesn't help it,check the temperature i it,this may be going bad,if that doesn't help it have a store look at it for you,the rad cap may fix this though and they only price a few dollars,at the toughest it probably could be would be a bad rad or a water push,good success with it. you can prevent it doing some pressure test. here are some guides lines on how to pressure test a radiator and cap.
Thanks dude. But after 3 diff types of Rcaps, 2 working rads...all the tests were done and result = cracked sleeve.
Mods pls close this as the problem was found.
Closed as requested