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I did this shortly after getting my car. Didnt really notice at the time, but I now find the car is really unresponsive at low revs (below approx 2300k). Cant really remember if it was like this with the resonator still attached...
Has anyone else experienced this?
Reset ur ecu. Shud fix itQuote:
Originally Posted by ash_dhs
Resetting the ecu is just disconnecting then reconnecting the battery isnt it? Because I have done that heaps of times, so it would have to be reset by now...
For example I find that if I shift into say 3rd gear at 3000rpm, it is really slow/unresponsive until it gets to around 2300rpm in 3rd...Like even if I floor it there is a loud noise coming from the intake but its not throaty and I cant feel the power until around 2300ish rpm
Hmm yeah duno hey :|
I am no expert, but I'd replace the resonator. If the problem persists, then the problem exists elsewhere.
when u remove the 2 smaller resonators (one on top and and below the intake piping) it will leave 2 big circle holes in the intake piping wont it...?
did you guys cover it up otherwise dust will go straight through the intake, especially on gravel roads...
Yes you have to cover them up. Also, the car is MORE responsive with the 3 resonators out. When you disconnect the negative terminal to the battery pump the brake pedal for 10secs.
thanks!
what do you use to cover the holes?
I've done the same thing a few times to different cords...just cut off the top of spray can bottle lids a bit larger in diameter than the hole...tape over it and around the hole with electrical tape and used a clamp to hold in place.
Also I recommend ditching the stock air box and putting in place a cold air intake.
thanks xenon! awesome idea!
If you look at my recent posts I did a write up on how to make one.
hmm i had a dig through your posts but couldnt find anything??
OK, have looked at all posts and decided to finally go ahead and remove the main resonator. I am a noob and all thumbs, so was a little worried.
1994 CD5 2.2 Manual - came with black large resonator, instead of white.
F22B3 SOHC non-vtec.
1: Removed the front right wheel
2: Unscrewed the Philips head clips holding the rubber wheel arch covering.
3: Removed one size 10 small bolt holding together the bumper, lip and wheel arch cover
4: Removed the size 10 bolt holding the lip to the wheel arch guard.
5: Did not need to leverage the wheel arch guard or peel it back to far.
Then remove the resonater
6: Remove one size 10 bolt
7: Remove a really annoying size 10 bolt. This one was a real pain in the arse because it was at just to wrong angle to get any leverage onto it with the spanner. The bumper under the lip is fairly flexible, so don't worry too much about bending it to get better leverage on the pita bolt.
8: Remove the snail (from the engine bay)
9: Push down on the resonator while pulling down.
10: Replace all screws and bolts.
11: Undo negative battery terminal.
12: Replace the wheel (tighten your wheel nuts!)
13: Refit the negative terminal and start and idle until warm.
No special tools required.
Result: - exactly what I hoped for and better than expected sound.
1: Car did not produce any noticeable change to noise at idle - Good!
2: Idle characteristic exactly the same as before. - Good!
3: Partial throttle response - marginally better. - Negligble
4: Noise at partial openings - absolutely no noticeable difference - Good!
5: Full throttle? Awesome. Absolutely what I wanted to hear. There is no noise difference at 80% throttle. However, nail it and you get a beautiful, throaty induction. Induction sound starts at 2000rpm, and plateaus at 3000 - 5500. Note change resonance at roughly 4400 rpm and gets a little deeper. Note at 6500 rpm is as expected.
6: Cruise at 50kmh in second, nail the throttle and enjoy all the way to 90 in second. Sounds like vtec kicking in yo, lol.
I highly recommend this mod for anyone reading this thread looking for an intake sound upgrade, but worried about ruining their "good" car.
Now... time to find a F22B1 head ported polished and loaded with bisimoto stage 1 cam, springs and retainers....
should just do the cold air induction while you're at it...
the induction noise you hear now is only 10% compared to what can be achieved without the air box
CAI - Well Visually, the air now going into the airbox is coming from the bumper - the inlet into the airbox, is far lower than the "snail" inlet. Living in Darwin, a CAI is probably a little too dangerous (see 440mm of rain in one day last week...)Quote:
Originally Posted by xenonkuraz
The box for K&N filters suggests 4.x CFM for a panel filter and 8.x CFM for a pod in terms of air flow.
The thing I like about the current sound is the ability to cruise and accelerate incognito, as long as you dont go beyond 80% ish throttle - perfect for transporting older family members.
But, when the urge takes me - (i.e. every single time I drove alone) full throttle sounds rorty, but another decibel or two would be nice.
The K&N panel filter costs $144 new from Repco. Can anyone recommend it for improved response, bang for buck wise?
(I expect negligible or zero actual power increase. )
Being a k&n it is probably going to be an oiled one...
I recommend if you want an aftermarket panel filter, look into dry type ones like Apexi. They will have higher cfm and cheaper too. And less maintenance.
Btw, just by putting in a better filter you will get an increase in power due to better air flow, although as you say negligible. But still something
Thanks again, Xenonkuraz.
Its curious and I'm entirely convinced, but it seems after a few days of driving the intake resonance is quietening down.
Still feels the same and the idle and mid range are still sweet and clean, but I think intake resonance I experienced in the first day or so is starting to reduce.
Anyone else experience this or should I lay off the booze? :)
I've had a look at APEXi and they look good - but I cant see an Panel for an Accord, and not on ebay either. Did they ever make one for a CD5 airbox?
Hrmm maybe I was mistaken. I did have apexi panel filters for my other cars...
Stick a cone filter on for fun! :)
Ok a few days later - and Im fairly definitely convinced that something changed gradually, to reduce the resonance. Although its still there and the car sounds great - its definitely quieter than it was on day 1 and 2.Quote:
Originally Posted by Holy Frog
I have investigated a F22B1/2/3 Apexi and the closes they can get is an F23 motor one, which is completely different. I should probably go the cone filter.
You're used to the sound
what sugz said