The Kswap Thread

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FAITHLESS

Lesson of today: don't share dick

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bwahahaha love it! (not dick!)

Sorry to whinge.
But can the spam posts in here be deleted. (including this one)
I'd hate for it to ruin what is an informative thread.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by --drew--

Question about the IACV for K20. Mine has been playing up lately specially since the weekend. Idle is screwed.

What tool if any, have any of you used to unscrew the 5 sided star screws that hold the electrical plug to the actual valve?

Went to repco, supercheap and sydney tools but did not find anything.

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I believe both small torx bits (for screwdrivers) and larger socket torx can be bought at bunnings.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...pce_10632.aspx

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...pce_11252.aspx

http://www.bunnings.com.au/products_...riceasc&page=2

is there a way to take the intake manifold without the water pump ?

Yes ..remove all the bolts from the inlet manifold....then you need to remove the threaded studs (double nut the studs and remove them) then you can slide the inlet out without having to remove the water pump

^sometimes i wonder why u dont have a K series yourself.
YOUR THE MAN.
Many thanx i did end up find the info also..

i tried giving u a PQ and it comes up with this mummo jumbo.'
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to _CRX_ again

OK guys. Have a problem.

My engine is idle hunting and I took it to my mechanic and he had a look over it.
He told me that it is idle hunting because of the choke. He said there is meant to be water running through it and there isn't hence why it is idle hunting.

Is he on the right track or what?

Your IACV is dirty or needs replacing

It doesnt need water to be run through it to work

Quote:

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Originally Posted by --drew--

OK guys. Have a problem.

My engine is idle hunting and I took it to my mechanic and he had a look over it.
He told me that it is idle hunting because of the choke. He said there is meant to be water running through it and there isn't hence why it is idle hunting.

Is he on the right track or what?

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You need a new mechanic ..he must be fossilized.

As Benny said, IACV or a faulty/dirty TPS/MAP sensor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IVTECI

You need a new mechanic ..he must be fossilized.

As Benny said, IACV or a faulty/dirty TPS/MAP sensor.

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Yeah, he's not really a modified car mechanic. More of a general one.

Aiight, shall have a look at it next week.

Little diagram I made up for those of you who may be using a k20z1 gearbox and want a working speedo. The Dakota unit converts the high speed signal from the k20z1 box to a signal readable by clusters in kswap vehicles.

Thanks goes out to Benson for some of the info I needed. Cant believe theres not a proper writeup on honda-tech or k20.org about this.

http://i.imgur.com/rjmML.jpg

note: Output 4 can also be connected to your kswap conversion harness that goes to your vehicles cluster. This way is easier because the plug under the drivers side dash is real hard to access. Using a Hybrid Racing DC/EG conversion harness connect Output 4 to the WHT/GRN wire.
As always refer to your cars ECU pinout diagrams and trace out the correct wire before connecting.

Beast ^^

Just an update.

Finally got around to checking the IACV out and it was dirty as.

Cleaned it out plus the throttle body and good as new.

Thanks for the help Benny and IVTECI

Good to hear Drew.
Although, I also do suggest you go looking for another mechanic. K-Swap cars and even newer cars are not for the general mechanics to look at anymore.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

Good to hear Drew.
Although, I also do suggest you go looking for another mechanic. K-Swap cars and even newer cars are not for the general mechanics to look at anymore.

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Thanx Mark. Was an effort and a half to undo one of the allen key bolts for the throttle body though.
Adrian from TODA sure put em on tightly.

Got any hook-ups for round our area seeing as though TOP ONE are a bit too far and Hanny's is expensive?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by --drew--

Thanx Mark. Was an effort and a half to undo one of the allen key bolts for the throttle body though.
Adrian from TODA sure put em on tightly.

Got any hook-ups for round our area seeing as though TOP ONE are a bit too far and Hanny's is expensive?

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Yup.
Benny and Jimmy at BYP are not too far (Smithfield). I've personally known them for a few years and these guys know anything that came out of the Honda factory very well .
And even closer, is the shop I mentioned to you before, Ison Industries at Blacktown. That shop is run by James. He is a gun mechanic. With any car. Worked on my old EG (still is), recently did work on my EK, worked on my sister's Mini Cooper S, my Dad's 4WD, Uncle's Celica, cousins Astra, well you get the drift lol
But he is also really starting to specialise in Hondas. I've turned all my friends to him and they all call him for any mechanic work too.

=)

whats the thoughts with blocking the IAVC some are complaining of the fact having to adjust the nut/screw.Once the blocking plate is installed.
Others have said because its only a weekender or trackcar it doesnt matter.

But if its a daily its alot more annoying.

best to keep aav if you delete iacv. it lets you idle higher when engine cold and lower when engine is warm.
adjust idle when engine warm or close aav then adjust idle screw.

so blocking the IACV means its all manual operation.
where as keeping IACV its automatically controlled via the Kpro.

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Originally Posted by nikos

Forgive my ignorance but I need to ask a few things about open and closed Loop in K pro.

So when running the motor in closed loop, the computer adjusts the fuel so that the A/F ratio is ideal. In open loop, the car runs strictly off the fuel maps that are in the calibration. That is what I understand so far..

My questions are:

1)If the computer adjusts the fuel on its own, why do people street tune before they hit the dyno to adjust the a/f ratio?

2)I understand that when tuning on the dyno, it needs to be in open loop.. but when the car is in closed loop, is there a way to see the adjustements the computer is making to the fuel values?


Basically, I have this calibration that kicks ass on my car, but in open loop a/f ratio on K pro is crazy high... so I have to run it in closed loop.

Can a calibration loose power from switching from closed loop to open loop?


Last question.. Some people are telling me that the stock 02 sensor is not very accurate and that I should go by the readings of a a/f sensor that gets stuck in the exhaust during a dyno session.. and basically not to worry too much about the Kpro A/F reading... I find that hard to believe.. any input?

I basically want to be able to use that calibration on a daily basis without risking going lean.

When datalogging on the street, is there a point into doing it while in closed loop? Or should it always be in open loop so that the user can see the actual a/d ratio...

Sorry about these questions, but I need to understand this 100%

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by krystar

there is a setting in parameters for open loop. it defaults to 89kpa i think. if the MAP reads less than 89kpa, the ECU is in closed loop. it'll trim for 14.7 AF. once the MAP goes above 89kpa, the ECU switches to open loop and just go straight off the tables.

why would i want to switch open loop? because closed loop is slow to react. closed loop fuel trim is at least 0.5sec "behind" the actual AF reading.

in closed loop, the ECU targets 14.7 which is way too lean for WOT operations. even if you're on the street and you just floor it, the ECU switches to open loop automatically.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by rsxmachine

re. #1 the point of street tuning is that if done correctly, you can get your WOT and near-WOT columns 95% tuned... meaning less time spent on dyno tuning = $$ saved. or, you can spend that time on the dyno fine-tuning cam angles, VTEC crossover, ignition advance etc. instead of on basic A/F adjustments.

re. #2 in closed loop you will still see what your A/F and fuel trims are doing, as well as knock. if your car is a daily driver then it's just as important (if not more important) to spend a good amount of time with closed loop disabled and tune the part-throttle/normally closed-loop columns. the more accurate these areas are tuned, the better your car will run in closed loop, because the ECU doesn't have to work so hard making large fuel trim adjustments. if these areas are out of whack, your fuel trim will be swinging all over the place, and since it lags it takes away from the smoothness and efficiency of the engine.

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Tuning for intakes:
For tuning purposes it is important to know the resonance point (the rpm where the intake makes that extra sound as if you were blowing on a bottle) of a CAI. For example, the AEM CAI on an RSX-S has a resonance point of 5200, the short ram AEM V2’s is at about 5900. Longer pipes have lower resonance points. There is a torque peak (and often a lean spot because an untuned motor doesn’t get enough fuel) at the resonance point. You can tune for different intakes. Doug has mentioned that pressurized intakes can really make a difference. Build a box around it to force air into it.

Hytech 4-2-1 2.5" collector on k24a3 with RBC have resonance point at about 4-5krpm
RBC flows good on 6-8k rpm.

as shown on datalog, afr lean spikes.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hondata

Some of the notes are sourced from fairly dated seminars for the B-Series or RSX. Most of them are plain wrong for the Civic Si, but here are the major changes for the Civic Si:

Reliability: Don't set the rev limiter any higher than 8600 rpm on a stock engine.

Dyno repeatability: Do not switch off the knock sensor nor primary o2 when tuning the Civic Si.

Tuning for torque: Don't tunr an endurance engine rich.

Optimize starting and idling: Cranking ignition does not use the ignition tables.

Knock: The Civic Si ECU will not advance / ratard on knock (the notes were from a B-Series ECU).

Economy and emissions: Part throttle ignition advance is optimized for economy, best not to change. Also, do NOT lean out the part throttle and run in open loop for economy as suggested.

What did Hondata find when they analyzed the ECU?: The stock Civic i ECU does not run rich at high rpm. The Civic Si stock ignition timing is not conversative.

VTC: There are five fuel & ignition tables for low cam & 5 for high cam.

Software: For the love of god, #3 cylinder does not run hot on any K-Series. This is B-Series data.

Trubo VTEC tuning: If your cam angle is ever 0 at 8000 rpm, you have a major exhaust restriction which needs to be looked at.

Supercharged engines: Don't set the WOT closed loop higher than 90 kPa.


There may be more, this was just from a quick skim.

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http://www.pencomputing.com/rsx/The_Hondata_KPro103.htm
http://www.pencomputing.com/rsx/adjusting_fuel.html
http://www.pencomputing.com/rsx/kpro...ced_tuning.htm
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/honda...de-tuning.html
http://www.hondata.com/ktech.html

Got a question for those experienced with tuning kpro as i plan on getting a tune done soon.

My car is currently running without the factory primary o2 sensor, its in open loop.
Is it recommended to buy a factory primary o2 sensor and run the car in closed loop or is it okay to have the car run open loop 24/7? The car is not a daily, just a weekend car.

I also have an AEM UEGO which i will eventually connect to the ELD input but afaik thats just for datalogging right? and you cannot run the car in closed loop with it.

any input will be appreciated cheers

you got a cat? running in open loop can kill your cat quick they say. also not to mention terrible fuel economy.

i suggest buy factory denso o2 sensor, its wideband too.

you using stock ecu? prc? k20?

for me running in open loop 24/7 is not a great idea considering o2 sensor is only 100-150

yea running a cat. setup ive got is k20z1, pnf ecu with kpro

if the car is tuned properly open loop cant be much defferent than closed can it? because the way i understand it the ecu runs in closed loop for light loads then changes to open loop and uses your tuned maps when manifold air pressure goes above 80kpa or am i way off track? lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Killa From Manila

yea running a cat. setup ive got is k20z1, pnf ecu with kpro

if the car is tuned properly open loop cant be much defferent than closed can it? because the way i understand it the ecu runs in closed loop for light loads then changes to open loop and uses your tuned maps when manifold air pressure goes above 80kpa or am i way off track? lol

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youre right mun, its switches to open loop when WOT (> 89 kpa) by default in kpro. it uses your fuel maps + short fuel trim when in closed loop.
when it goes to open loop, it just looks on fuel map, no adjustment on short trim.
if its tuned properly then i dont think its bad, but im not too sure.

hang on, does it even start without o2 sensor?
doesnt it throw a code?

wat

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/customa...ar11984_24.gif

Starts runs and drives just uncheck closed loop box in kpro.

Definately get the o2 sensor, fuel economy will be shithouse without, not to mention the car will feel laggy..

my swap didnt have a working o2 sensor for a while.... was nugget

srs

How bad is it without?

Economy and performance wise?

On K Swaps, can you just use the OEM O2 Sensor or do you have to use a different one?

Spark Plugs

Can everyone confirm what brand, type, and part number everyone is using in their K ?
Mainly K20A Type R

Just did a search and different results everywhere
=\

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

How bad is it without?

Economy and performance wise?

On K Swaps, can you just use the OEM O2 Sensor or do you have to use a different one?

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i dont think economy and performance would be too bad if you spent a long time fine tuning part throttle conditions, but if u just removed the o2 sensor it would run crap.

for kswaps with kpro use an 02-04 primary sensor (because kpro uses 02-04 ecu).
i just bought a denso replacement 02-04 rsx type s o2 sensor 234-9005 this is the sensor used for all kswaps with kpro. alot cheaper than oem by a couple hundred

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Killa From Manila

i dont think economy and performance would be too bad if you spent a long time fine tuning part throttle conditions, but if u just removed the o2 sensor it would run crap.

for kswaps with kpro use an 02-04 primary sensor (because kpro uses 02-04 ecu).
i just bought a denso replacement 02-04 rsx type s o2 sensor 234-9005 this is the sensor used for all kswaps with kpro. alot cheaper than oem by a couple hundred

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Thanks for that info.
Could you tell me where you got your sensor from?
Also, still wanting to confirm spark plug part numbers.
Any ideas?

Came across this dont know if its been posted in here yet but i looks like its everything you need just add motor gearbox and a car

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Tuned-Leve...4b8da6&vxp=mtr

can anyone see anything else you would need looks like a pretty good kit :)

If this is what I think doing a K20 into my brother DC2 next to nothing with reselling his old B18 and box to get some money back :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MEN15S

Came across this dont know if its been posted in here yet but i looks like its everything you need just add motor gearbox and a car

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-Tuned-Leve...4b8da6&vxp=mtr

can anyone see anything else you would need looks like a pretty good kit :)

If this is what I think doing a K20 into my brother DC2 next to nothing with reselling his old B18 and box to get some money back :)

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These kits are really good value, and they save alot of headaches.

However, they sort of rely on you having a full swap already, ie motor with harness, gearbox etc.

If your piecing bits together youre going to have to source alot of little bits and pieces like sensors etc.

Guys, need your help/opinions.

Changing to a 50deg VTC in my K24, need advice on getting the crank pulley off. What do you guys recommend.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vvvtec

Guys, need your help/opinions.

Changing to a 50deg VTC in my K24, need advice on getting the crank pulley off. What do you guys recommend.

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Brute force. notsrs


http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=87911

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vvvtec

Guys, need your help/opinions.

Changing to a 50deg VTC in my K24, need advice on getting the crank pulley off. What do you guys recommend.

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You dont need to take the crank pulley off. Just undo the black chain tensioner cover, lock the tensioner and then proceed with taking off the cam and gear. You will need to keep tension on the chain though to stop it from moving.

i think he wants to change timing chain too.

Yes sorry, I'm putting on a fresh timing chain and K20 oil pump

Crazy rattle gun with enough torque to break your wrist.

That should do it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

140kw with oem parts is pretty nice in lightweight chassis.
i just hope price in parts would go down

just to contribute:
Swapping Cams - Timing chain - K24
on the k24 you line up the dots on the cam gears between the two colored marks on the chain
on the k20 you line up the dots on the cam gears right on the colored marks on the chain

k20 chain has a total of 3 marks
k24 chain has a total of 5 marks

DO NOT LINE THE TIMING CHAIN DOTS ON ONE LINK...line the dots in between LINKS...this is for the k24 block only

1. Set the crankshaft to top dead center (TDC). Align the TDC mark (A) on the crankshaft sprocket with the pointer (B) on the engine block.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...0Swap/1-10.gif

2. Set the camshafts to TDC. The punch mark (A) on the variable valve timing control (VTC) actuator and the punch mark (B) on the exhaust camshaft sprocket should be at the top. Align the TDC marks (C) on the VTC actuator and exhaust camshaft sprocket.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...20Swap/2-6.gif

3. Install the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket with the colored piece (A) aligned with the punch mark (B) on the crankshaft sprocket.
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...20Swap/3-5.gif

4. Install the cam chain on the VTC actuator and the exhaust camshaft sprocket with the punch marks (A) aligned with the center of the two colored pieces (B).
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u...20Swap/4-5.gif

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Quoted because this is awesome.

New timing chain arrived yesterday, K20 oil pump setup also shipped yesterday.

Will provide pics when everythibg arrives and is installed

How much ground clearance are you guys running k swaps generally leaving for the sump?
Or maybe just post your car + ride height?
I want to go lower but am scared of smashing my sump
=(

85mm cat converter body is lowest point :/
pan is about 100mm

2 finger gap

haha..

I still remember that time I smashed my sump coming down over a speed hump because of some dodgy roadworks... end result = (lip damage is from driveway not smashing!)

https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...84656954_o.jpg

Damn! How fast did you hit it?

Was taking the speedhump at usual speed, they were doing some sort of road works, they decided to dig right after the speed hump so there was a lip between the end of the hump and the new starting of the road (hard to explain but it's usually that annoying sharp edge when they start resurfacing works that buckle wheels!)

So the wheels dug down into that low section and bang, the hit was square on the edge of the sump lol, it made a small tear in the pan, enough for a strange smell to occur, next thing you know a hint of smoke!

I thought I had to get the fire extinguisher out LOL

^ think i spotted you just now around cab

Probably someone else, my car is a bare shell.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chr1s

Was taking the speedhump at usual speed, they were doing some sort of road works, they decided to dig right after the speed hump so there was a lip between the end of the hump and the new starting of the road (hard to explain but it's usually that annoying sharp edge when they start resurfacing works that buckle wheels!)

So the wheels dug down into that low section and bang, the hit was square on the edge of the sump lol, it made a small tear in the pan, enough for a strange smell to occur, next thing you know a hint of smoke!

I thought I had to get the fire extinguisher out LOL

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Ah thats horrible man, unlucky :(

Car looked amazing though mate, props! :thumbsup:

Damn. That sucks. Did you tow it home?
Mocchi: Your stump must be really low if that is the case. I'd like to see a pic if you have one.

Has anybody thought of using an Accord or CRV sump since they're made of steel?

?

Most K swapped cars have sumps that are low to the ground, it's low and the car might not even be that low. I had a few dings on my sump from small taps and I was running the steel sump when it broke, they are not invisible..it did suck and I had to tow it home lol.

My mate destoryed the sump on his H22 swapped DC2 aswell... Just one of those things unfortunately.

Anyone know what belt I should be using (ep3 pulley and no AC) ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by G-Stick

Anyone know what belt I should be using (ep3 pulley and no AC) ?

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*edited*

no...belt for altenator, ps, ac

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Killa From Manila

no...belt for altenator, ps, ac

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oh.. right.. sorry!!! :(

Hi all.

Got an issue that I'd like to hear opinions on.

Kswaps and driveshafts.

My K20A is in an EK hatch and as it was built quite some time ago I am running EKK1 mounts.
And ever since I've put on more grippy tyres, the weakness in the driveshafts seems to have surfaced.

Before I put in the ideas I have that I'd like to discuss, I'd really appreciate hearing what others out there have experienced with this and what solutions they have come up with.

Thanks guys

Mark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

Hi all.

Got an issue that I'd like to hear opinions on.

Kswaps and driveshafts.

My K20A is in an EK hatch and as it was built quite some time ago I am running EKK1 mounts.
And ever since I've put on more grippy tyres, the weakness in the driveshafts seems to have surfaced.

Before I put in the ideas I have that I'd like to discuss, I'm really appreciate hearing what others out there have experienced with this and what solutions they have come up with.

Thanks guys

Mark

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Have you snapped driveshafts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by newpaddy3

Have you snapped driveshafts?

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I've gone through one set.
Although they were on there for about 6 years (since the swap was in the car), and weakened when I put stickier tyres on and probably due to driving the car a little bit more spiritedly (track days,etc) then my brother did.

Why is that?

Dss m8y

Quote:

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Originally Posted by u mad?

Dss m8y

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Dss ???

Havnt got any personal experience, but those EKK1 mounts you have are notorious for binding and breaking drive shafts.

How low is your car?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

Dss ???

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Drive shaft shop. Level 2.9 and up, stronger shafts.

Even then, thats not going to solve the problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

I've gone through one set.
Although they were on there for about 6 years (since the swap was in the car), and weakened when I put stickier tyres on and probably due to driving the car a little bit more spiritedly (track days,etc) then my brother did.

Why is that?

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Might need to invest in a beefier set up. Done a lot of modifications?

6 years is a long time though.

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100748

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vvvtec

Drive shaft shop. Level 2.9 and up, stronger shafts.

Even then, thats not going to solve the problem.

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Pro Level lol

Once you go pro, you don't go slow.

http://images-cdn.ecwid.com/images/188638/21766542.jpg

inb4 $2k on drive shafts lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vvvtec

Havnt got any personal experience, but those EKK1 mounts you have are notorious for binding and breaking drive shafts.

How low is your car?

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Thanks for reply Vvvtec.
And you are right on that. I have also "heard" and "read" about their notoriousness, but as mentioned in the 6 years of running them have been fortunate enough to not have dealt with it. So i'm quite relieved on that point.
=)
Admittedly, my car is not setup to beat records or anything like that. It's more of a nice daily cruiser that just happens to have a Kswap in it.

If i'm honest, not low enough for my liking.
My brother has always kept it at a dropped but reasonable height due to the fear of the oil sump being smashed.
=\
For reference, it sits with a gap between the guard and tyre still.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vvvtec

Drive shaft shop. Level 2.9 and up, stronger shafts.

Even then, thats not going to solve the problem.

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Is that an actual shop name OR is that reference to go to one?

I think you're on the money there. Would just like to hear of other peoples thoughts and experiences.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by newpaddy3

Might need to invest in a beefier set up. Done a lot of modifications?

6 years is a long time though.

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100748

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6 years is definitely a long time. So I do think I have been fortunate with the reliability and strength shown so far.
Interesting link. Will read up on that more during lunch break.
Thanks for sharing.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by newpaddy3

Pro Level lol

Once you go pro, you don't go slow.

http://images-cdn.ecwid.com/images/188638/21766542.jpg

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Whoa!
Thick as.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by newpaddy3

Might need to invest in a beefier set up. Done a lot of modifications?

6 years is a long time though.

http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100748

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Shoot. Forgot to reply to the question.
Uhhh. As for a lot of modifications? I'm not sure what you're referring to there?
The swap per say is a regular K Swap. Nothing too outrageous if that's what you were referring to.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

I've gone through one set.
Although they were on there for about 6 years (since the swap was in the car), and weakened when I put stickier tyres on and probably due to driving the car a little bit more spiritedly (track days,etc) then my brother did.

Why is that?

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when you say snapped, be specific in what area of driveshaft snapped.
did the shaft itself break, cv crowns bind or ?

how low is your car sitting? take a pic of driveshaft angle while car on ground

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mocchi

when you say snapped, be specific in what area of driveshaft snapped.
did the shaft itself break, cv crowns bind or ?

how low is your car sitting? take a pic of driveshaft angle while car on ground

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It didn't actually snap.
More like really really worn and making the ticking noises and feeling the vibrations whilst driving.
I'd imagine it would be near binding at close to/at full lock turning.

I'll try and take a pic during lunch.

Ok so I used my superior photo skills during lunch...

Anyway, the following pics are:

Current ride height:

http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s...026_135932.jpg

Drivers side

http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s...026_135712.jpg

Passenger side

http://i560.photobucket.com/albums/s...026_140003.jpg

Sorry for the crappy photos. I didn't want to kneel on the ground in my suit lol
So I just crouched and tried my best.

I believe my options to improve the situation are:

- EKK2 engine mounts and EG/DC crossmember;
OR
- thicker shafts and/or 5 lug conversion as they have slightly larger shafts.

Any other options / solutions?

Thanks for the input so far too guys.
Much appreciated.

We would be wasting a fair whack of energy running these shafts at these angles.. I've seen worse than the above too. Funny thing is Williams ran some stupid angles on their F1 car a few years ago.

Sorry. But what do you mean by wasting a fair whack of energy?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

Sorry. But what do you mean by wasting a fair whack of energy?

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When the driveshaft isn't straight the engine needs to work harder to rotate it.

Constant velocity joints are ideally meant to run at a level angle and on the same axis as the output of the gearbox to the wheels. Anything out of this range will incur a loss.

Theyre designed to operate at variable angles...

what causes the loss you say occurs?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T

Theyre designed to operate at variable angles...

what causes the loss you say occurs?

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Is that right ? Or is Chris right? Or both to a degree? lol
Sorry for the confusion, but it is an interesting point.

And imagine that. Kswapped cars not running to full potential yet being able to run how they do... NICE! hehehe

Also, on the driveshaft issue.
It does seem that the EKK2 mounts and EG/DC rack will help in fixing the angle problem.
But thicker shafts will also go a long way too.
Time for me to save up some coin for them
=)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by CIV-18C

Is that right ? Or is Chris right? Or both to a degree? lol
Sorry for the confusion, but it is an interesting point.

And imagine that. Kswapped cars not running to full potential yet being able to run how they do... NICE! hehehe

Also, on the driveshaft issue.
It does seem that the EKK2 mounts and EG/DC rack will help in fixing the angle problem.
But thicker shafts will also go a long way too.
Time for me to save up some coin for them
=)

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Both are right haha.

Before you get new shafts, make sure you weigh up the costs for each option. It might even be better to spend a little more and get the new EKK2's and eg/dc rack + new shafts. What is your budget?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Vvvtec

Both are right haha.

Before you get new shafts, make sure you weigh up the costs for each option. It might even be better to spend a little more and get the new EKK2's and eg/dc rack + new shafts. What is your budget?

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Ultimately the whole package is ideal of course. EKK2, subframe, shafts and inner hub.
The only thing i'm not sure on is the price of the DC2R subframe? Do you/anybody know how much they go roughly?

In terms of budget (and timing). I really don't see the need for me to throw money at this side of the equation any time soon. With other things in my personal life closer and meaning more to me then my car on the horizon, it'll be in the new year until I purchase these things. So i'll be gradually putting the pennies away until the budget caters for the whole purchase.