Ditto that. Walked in to ask them about the modulo/OEM lip kit for the CL9. Received a bertface.jpg followed by a perplexed question; "so yu wonn body kit?"
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go do some research on k20a.org.
Cuzz, I'll tell you what I did:
-Install the CAN adapter(MUST DO PRIOR GOING TO HONDA OR THE 06 TSX ECU WONT PROGRAM TO YOUR CAR!!)
-Call honda to book an ECU swap, just tell them you want to swap to a TSX ECU, maybe they'll understand, guy I spoke to did as he had done aftermarket ecu swaps with an EK4.
-Bring laptop and flashpro(had to wait 2 hours for my ecu swap, so having your laptop is advantageous, 2 hours wait... so bs -.-')
-after you get car back load up a flashpro calibration and enjoy :D
**Dont DIY swap the ECU because it the car wont start, trust bro. Just give the ECU to the mechanic at Honda**
**I got my ecu swap at narrewarren Honda charged me $160, essendon honda qouted $250 lmao**
**Note: the CAN adapter installation guide that comes with the Flashpro and the one that is listed on the Hondata website is incorrect for our Aus spec Euro's, a member on ozhonda called Jhim show me how to do it, his a top bloke. If you have Facebook, join AUSEURO, as Jhim is actively on there.
Andy install the what... CAN... English please bro.
Also 06 tsx ecu... Thought it was 07-08.
OK buy all the shit. Book Honda appointment for ecu swap. They will put the new ecu in and program my key. Whatever.
Then u saif upload hondata calibration. Well that ****s me coz I have a Mac book. Won't be uploading anything. Once I get tsx ecu in I'll just find someone to tune it for me.
Also this vTC gear.... I heard its a pretty big job to change the gear.... Is this true?
To replace vtc it is timing chain off
Has jhim got a white euro. If so I saw a YouTube clip. Was amazing. That's exactly what I want my car to do. Haha
And how much for u to do this bro? Lol
Andy, does jhim exist on ozhonda. Tried sending him a pm but no luck. Says name don't exist.
Cheers
The best are MoTeC and AEM units, but they cost $$$$
MoTeC and AEM EMS systems can support extra sensors and has inbuilt processing power waayyyyyy beyond what hondata can throw at it. But they aren't the most user friendly systems.
Face it, people use hondaa because they are easy to work with. hondata is the dummy camera compared to AEM and MoTeC which are professional DSLRs. To 99% of the people the dummy camera is sufficient.
I personally prefer EPROM reflashing, instead of the "roundabout" way hondata do them to trick the ecu into the new codes.
Bunch of folks in Russia had been flashing cl9s for a while now.
I agree that MoTeC and AEM is nice, but it's not so friendly when connecting all stuff. So for simple people there is less options.
I know all these russian guys, a lot of them allready swapped TSX 07-08 ECU + FlashPro and made even more power. Some of them are tuned by me remotly. I even know 2 guys who are offerinf this EPROM reflashing. I saw how it's done and won't used that crap in my car !!!
Pretty sure hed be talking about the Controller Area Network (CAN) adapter. As i have no expirience with flashpro setup, id guess you need a way to communicate with the ECU so you can re-program it.. the CAN adapter would let you do this.
I refuse to use piggy back systems. I was talking about complete stand alone systems. Getting more power isnt the important part, getting reliable power is and from my experience realllllly hard with piggy back style setup.
While i might be biased, the adaptronic range of ECU's provide a good value point. The E420d is $990, but is NOT plug and play. 99% sure you could use all of the stock sensors but you would still need to wire the thing up yourself.
Not too keen to agree on the AEM ecus. Their older stuff was a bit shonky (imo), cant comment on new stuff as. The processing power of the ecu is not really relevant anymore. A new 'smartphone' has a faster processor. Its the software that matters most nowadays...
And i find motec stuff way easier to use than my s300 btw.
I dislike the idea that people wont do something better because its 'harder'. Sure i can understand cost/time/ect... but cmon... youre modifying your car to be what you want, effort is implied isnt it? (unless youre only after the e-reps)
Most of the sensory stuff is pretty straight forward to learn... cant believe people wouldnt want to know how the hell their cars worked if they were keen to modify them
I dont see how different ecus would make / more less power really... come down to the tune, no?
And i passionately HATEEEEEE remote tuning. If youre talking about loading a premade map, thats not so bad (dont see why you'd not tune the thing properly though), but ive seen someone actually attempt to tune remotely and jeebus it failed.
Connecting wires would probably do the exact same thng as the CAN adapter....
Chipping is wayyy more risky (assuming they are desoldering a chip and putting something in its place)
Seems you don't know how remote tuning is done with FlashPro or other system which has logging. User makes logs (finds nice road without traffic and makes run in 3rd gear), tuner changes values and sends new calibration - after ~ 20-25 changes user gets full tune. I would always say proper remote tune on the street is better then Dyno because it's real life conditions. Also not everywhere real Dyno is available, not everywhere you will find proper people who can do good tune! You can always go here and discuss with people which are doing street and Dyno tuning: http://flashprotuning.com/
philipminge, sorry yeh I meant 07-08, see you've learnt heaps in just a few days :D But i reckon don't buy all the shit until your completely satisfied and sure of what you need. VTC gear swap will take a couple hours(maybe more) to do if you've never done it before, but there's a few things in the installation you cant get wrong or your farrked!
I understand the process well (very popular with the Renault Sport guys).
Problems:
1) you are relying on thr factory knock sensor to pick up detention
2) you are relying on the stock oxygen sensor to work out the lambda
3) you are relying on the stock temperature sensors
4) on the street it is impossible to hold a specific amount of throttle at a certain rpm (HUGE DEAL)
5) you have no idea on the actual torque/power made (no real feedback)
6) Other minor things that would piss me off that I won't mention.
I dont care how skilled a person is, if theyre tuning it remotely or not, but a street tune cant compare to a dyno tune (assuming same tuner / time / ect)
Note: 3 of my cars ive tuned on the street myself with stock sensors. Yes you can get something that is pleasant to drive but in terms of tune quality... huge unknown. Only reason I havent gone on a dyno is that ill be undergoing some aubstantual changes to all 3 and spending money on a temporary arrangement doesnt make sense to me.
^^^ cant you go to a dyno to get the logs and get someone to do the remap?
Yes, possible. However a log doesnt tell you the whole story. If you were to log EVERYTHING then maybe. But a lot of the time you can hear / feel / use your senses to work out things are not so great nice and quick (IE, less risk).
I would personally not feel comfortable DOING a tune remotely because of that. I can understand a tuner looking over a bunch of logs and making suggestions on how to make it better, but not actually doing the tuning himself...
If a tuner was completely comfortable with tuning remotely, i would nearly certainly walk away. There is a reason good tuners spend a lot of time travelling rather than doing everything remotely.
(Please note, i dont view the tune with the most power/torque to be the best tune... safety, reliability and drivability are what id look for.)
OK this is wayyyyyy too technical for my brain at this stage. Lol I'm out.
I suggest you to talk with real tuners which do real Dyno tuning and remote one. All can be done corretly if you know what are you doing. I have made several remote tunes which work better then there old tunes which were done on real dyno ! Each person have it's own view what is better.
I'm assuming the tuner is competent ;)
Assume you only do a Roadie then, exactly how much of racing conditions can you simulate without getting yourself into deep **** or killed? You maybe able to do the first 2 gears on part/full throttle but that doesn't give the tuner exactly a clear idea even if you repeat it 10x+. You need to take it up there with the higher gears for that total picture. Hence why Dyno + Road = Smarter choice ;)
I spend a reasonable amount of time with people doing engine development and research for manufacturers.... there is no way in hell they would be comfortable doing a tune remotely (but then again these same people spend like 100 dyno hours on a 'tune')
Dyno tuned but verified on the road, yes. Someone actually making changes based on expiriences on the road.... not so much. Notice something wrong, back to the dyno you (should) go.
Tow the car 1000km's. I know a guy whos shipped his engine like 7500km's to get tuned.
Move to city?
Serious Answer - Just to answer your 1/10000000000000000 scenario, book the nearest dyno to hook up and tune or your hook it up nearby and then move it to tuner [Have done so before]. What's better? Spend extra to do it smarter and safer OR try to tune and crash out with a dead ride/fined + loss of licence OR end up dead and not be able to enjoy life? You decide here ;)
I have a feeling this guy might not be in Australia.
I would say go there and use his dyno, not use him!
You seem to be interested in this stuff (a very good thing :D) so i suggest buying something like this:
http://www.bookdepository.com/book/9...FShNpgodEyYApQ
Will give you a good starting point in how to tune and what youre looking at doing.
Learning to use the dyno isnt so easy unless the guy there knows how to use it properly.
Sure it might take you a long time but that is the best way to do it if nobody else can
not all, I know a few guys from Australia (both with Accord CL9 Euro) which prefer remote tuning. They are using this one - http://vittuned.com/
Im not sure how much expirience youve had with tuning a car without a base tune (so youre starting from scratch)... this book came in handy to me a LOT. If you know the theory, you can usually work out how to things differ and what needs to be done differently.
I can nearly garuntee they dont live 1000km's from a dyno. Most people would prefer remote tune because it is easy...
Then youd know that tuning for power is the easy part :D
Cold starting usually takes me ages to sort out perfectly unless i live with the car :(
so i have made up my mind. i will be going to sydney in september. im gonna drive up and drop my car off at BYP racing.
Benny is a top bloke and was happy to explain everything to me.
i will post the results of the dyno once i get them.
will be interesting. cheers for everyones help and yes ill be going with the tsx ecu and the hondata flashpro.
cheers guys... will keep everyone updated..
Why do you need to drive all the way up there when you can just get it done locally???
There's 2 very experienced Honda tuners in Melbourne,
One of which is a Hondata official dealer.
I dont know much about the BYP situation but really?!?!?!
Get it done here man!
lmao op didnt listen to anyone
enjoy ur tune mate
Not sure if whole thread op has been trolling or just strong dum dum
I heard there were some things going on with byp, have you had a read of the thread For those who have dealt with BYP RACING & DEVELOPMENTS ?
Just a heads up, if you're still fine with BYP after reading that, then go ahead :thumbsup:
WOW- to be continued...
who are the 2 people in melbourne that do hondas again FREDOOPS.
woah everyone chill.... lol
wow. ok so reason i said byp is coz im goin on a cruise in sep and leaves from syd.
so not making a trip for nothing.
i read that thread about the experiences with byp... i must say - to all the people that got diked - thats real upsetting.
i remember someone saying a dog sat on their race seat too lol
when my sparcos go in my s2k, if someone put a dog on my seat... omg i would blow my head gasket!!!
im really stunned by the comments, photos, replies, and all that stuff. im not going to say anything as i dont wanna be a part of it.... so whatever.
(not naming any names) but i took my car for service one day about 4 years ago and before i went in i scratched my oil filter with a drill bit. took my car in - got it back with an invoice and first thing i did was lift the bonnet and looked at my filter. it was still there. on the invoice clearly said -NEW GENUINE FILTER $23.
i lost my s*** and said if he doesnt do another oil change now i would drive my car through his workshop at about 100 clicks...
i did not take it any further as he vanished and his workshop is no longer there. was a while ago now. but fk...
im not saying i had a terrible experience and was tiny compared to most but you trust someone enough to do the right thing and they just **** you.
i have done a shit load of reserch today as i am off work for once.
i think i will do all the work myself...
it thought benny was a top bloke. nice on the phone etc... but i have a problem with trusting people. im a soft prick. i have nothing against byp as i have never dealt with them. so i am not going to bs about them or anyone else.
i have never taken my car back to a mechanic since that oil filter thing and even convinced my old man to give me some space in the factory to put a car hoist in. thats where my s2k is now and im building the whole thing myself... no1 will touch the car.... issue is when i get to ECU and computer - im stuck....
reason why i wanted to get this done is A) no time B) i know nothing about wiring and tuning and this and that. i can put manifolds on etc etc etc and throttle bodies and now adjust my valve clearances - all the basic stuff... never had any experience with ecus etc. always played with bolt ons.
SO after my off topic post... i am going to take things slower.
can anyone tell me this - if i bolt on RBC intake manifold and J35 throttle body.... and leave stock computer - will that be bad for the car..... meaning the car may run lean or whatever?? or will the factory computer compensate the change until i put the rest in... or is it better to wait and do it all together?
any input welcome.
thanks everyone for the posts... was just getting excited and wanted to speed everything up.
but cheers anyway... think ill just learn and do everything myself.... lol
get more room in the factory and buy my own dyno. lol
alls good. cheers guys for ya help.
and sorry to all the people out there that get dicked with car mods by some mechanics. not referring to any work shops or whatever just speaking generally.
i do know of one mechanic that is the most particular guy i have ever met. He works for someone else but does his own work on the side 25 years experience in the industry (registered business name not just off the street and qualified!!!) but just feel guilty to get him to do my stuff because he is my uncles best mate n dont want him to feel like he had to do my shit. i have sent many people to him and they all are now regular clients. used him to help me do a clutch and flywheel change in my s2k... it took ages because every bolt he pulled out he would clean with a wire brush and wipe it with prepsol and a rag.... lol every bolt. also made me take the new flywheel and clutch to get balanced properly before we put it in... the toda flywheel was perfect but the clutch pressure plate was out by a bit. always good advice.
i haven't really used him for my euro coz he is always busy and to be honest... i didnt want to waste his time with stupid questions but i think i will now. bad luck
cheers blokes. n thanks again!!!!
also does anyone know where to buy a power steering pump? tsx pump fit on cl9 i assume?
I've dealt with Steve from MSC before, his a top bloke. He also has a boosted S2K which means you guys will be best friends. Also in relation to your RBC and stock ECU question, I found that the car was a little jerky in gear 1 and 2. Good luck!
if you put RBC or RRC manifold and don't tune ECU you will looser power - tested long time ago. All tuning must begin from poper Engine managment. Even when you put exhaust header air fuel ratio goes to 13.5 without tune. It's a little bit on lean side for K24 engine.
Hmmmm. OK.
So could I be doing damage every time I thrash the s*** out of my euro. Because soon it will get a new high flow cat... That will prob change things again. Just wish there was an easier way to tune.
Think I'll buy the hondata and tsx ecu
Before anything else...
Coz I'm guessing I can just run that and when I do more mods just retune....
Few things I have to take care of. The car has 166xxx now. Its super clean but stuff doesn't last forever...
Needs clutch (will do slightly lighter flywheel) and power steering pump is squeezing its head off... Lol so gotta do things slow. Just hope the car doesn't run lean... :S
Modern ecu's are self learning. Over time the ecu will richen up the mixtures a bit, but obviously not as accurately as tuning will
Highly doubt you'll cause any damageQuote:
So could I be doing damage every time I thrash the s*** out of my euro. Because soon it will get a new high flow cat... That will prob change things again. Just wish there was an easier way to tune.
Think I'll buy the hondata and tsx ecu
Before anything else...
YepQuote:
Coz I'm guessing I can just run that and when I do more mods just retune....
It's not the end of the world.Quote:
Few things I have to take care of. The car has 166xxx now. Its super clean but stuff doesn't last forever...
Needs clutch (will do slightly lighter flywheel) and power steering pump is squeezing its head off... Lol so gotta do things slow. Just hope the car doesn't run lean... :S
This...
As stndrd has mentioned, modern ECUs are self learning/self adjusting within their factory parameters. Unless you altering the A/F equation by large margin [Ie big cams, turbo, injectors, fuel pump, etc], you don't have to worry. The engine majority of the time won't be damaged, it will adjust itself the best it can to protect the engine. Having said that it means it probably not giving the best performance or economy because it can only do so much ;)
How often are you ever at WOT for more than 5 or 6 seconds on the street? Most of the time you are at partial throttle and the ECU will adjust mixtures accordingly
WOT about in a V
Hey guys, another question.
When the 50vtc gear is fitted - and people set it to 45 what is the extra 25degrees doing. Is it opening the intake valves sooner?? Or is it getting rid of the overlap between intake and exhaust valves?
Or am I completely off course and lost?
Second question, once that gear is in, can the car be driven with the stock computer? Or do I have to have the tsx upgrade right away???
Also people say that they unbolt the intake can shaft off a dc5 type r and put them in... Will this make much difference? I was let to believe that he cams in the 06 euros were a decent spec... anyone have any input?
This is where I'm lost. They say its a 50degree can gear... But only run it at 45 degrees. I don't quite understand how this works. Lol. Well I do but I don't... Haha
Ahhh sick. So even if I'm thrashing with a 50 gear it won't recognize it. So should operate as normal!
Thanks
VTC angles are written in ECU, OEM CL9 ECU can operate till 25* only. If you install 50 gear it will be moved till 25 only. DC5 type r cams are decent for CL9 Euro, best cams are intake TSX 06+ cam if you don't what to touch valve springs and install "stage 2 cams": http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post3689413
I have tuned one Accord CL9 Euro 5AT (Auto) with "stage 2" cams he makes 0-100 km/h in 6.2s with cheap tires ! It can easy do in 6s with better ones.
With OEM camshafts on K24a3 engine you can go to full VTC50 there won't be any P2V (piston to valve contact), when you install aftermarket camshafts clearances must be checked because you can damage engine if over advance VTC !!! If you over rev engine (misshift from 5 to 2 for example) P2V can be even with small OEM cams.