Nh it's fuked
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Nh it's fuked
ur fkdQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
hope you gonna restore the rest of plastic trims all around
so it matches the nice new paint silky smooth to the touch like tatas
hnnnnngggggggggggggg
I actually got myself another set of interior trim, minus dash and pillar trims.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Before my ownership, this Civic was broken into, screw screwdriver marks here and there. C**ts
Got '98+ DC2r steering wheel, rear seats, shift boot, gear knob, Mugen pedals to go in, + new 5 stud weight saver wheel. What I need are SR4s recaros, or pair of Brides, and DC2R floor mats to complete the ultimate interior. <3 DC2R
I have a set of SR3 seats for sale if you want to complete a DC2R interiorQuote:
Originally Posted by 3K9
he meant exterior trimQuote:
Originally Posted by 3K9
its pink you fuk stop lying im sick of itQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
I prefer SR4s. DC2R seats in hatchie is way too mainstream.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Ohh. Sum bodii educate me on how to restore the exterior trim, where the front wipers and the vertical trim behind the front doors. Anything else?Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Put a set of evo5 seats in it then to be different lol
Just Googled "Evo5 seats". They are like seats from the EP3R. Doesn't hold you in as much. I need seats that'll hug me nicely. From my internet research, SR4s are a bit tighter than SR3s, both perfect to accommodate my 171cm small azn body.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Throw back Thursday.
From 2013 JMDST Spring Meet.
http://i891.photobucket.com/albums/a...0c36d068_b.jpg
I had to rub a A-LOT of wax on the sh!t paint to make it look that nice, or maybe it's just my mates SLR camera. You can see that it's pink-ish.
I remember I had got new Kuhmo KU31s earlier that week. To this day, only done 4** kms on the new rubber.
Stay tuned for the next throw back photo. Hehe..
sr4 is nicer than sr3 i rkn, had it in my eg.
more comfy.
agree sr4 nicer
Fn2 seats pm Vvvtec he got some
Not too keen on two tone seats.Quote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Went to da shop today.
After I get my EG up and running, I will need to go back to the shop and 'give it a polish'. Just letting the paint 'settle down' now.
I didn't mention this before, but I sourced a nice pair of 2nd hand headlights, and rear taillights, and amber corners from JDMyard.
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/DSC_0229.JPG
Completed. :)
Managed to jump start the car, driving back 900m home, with loss of power due to blow headgasket. Exhaust making bubbly noise. Didn't have to pay towing!
Back home.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/DSC_0233.JPG
Sorry for boxes everywhere. Moved in 2 years ago and still haven't fully unpack yet. Those Grace boxes are Gramp's belongings, getting shipped back to HK as he recently moved back permanently.
I got myself an aftermarket front bumper, and here are the results: =/
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-T...o/DSC_0234.JPG
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Eb...=w1026-h577-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-X...o/DSC_0236.JPG
I'll source myself an OEM bumper, and get it painted.
New mouldings: YAY!
Exterior door moulds
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-j...o/DSC_0237.JPG
Roof mouldings:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-0...o/DSC_0240.JPG
Man, I need to replace all the other mouldings and seals. These new mouldings make the 20 year old ones look fugly.
yh need new exterior rubber/plastic trimsQuote:
Originally Posted by 3K9
nice bruh
das itttt
nice work bro...
Barely done anything practically productive. All I've done is hoarded parts and saved up money.Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Save every dollar, spend big. That's how Asians roll.
das ittt
Went to JDMyard today.
Dropped off my DC2R 5 stud, minus front camber arms and upper lca (compliance bushings), to get the bushings changed, with Hardrace bushings that I bought ages ago. Might as well since they are out.
Was told to replace rear disks, cos they are rusted as f***, so I ordered a replacement. Holding off the fronts atm, they look OK to me.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-i...o/DSC_0168.JPG
Bought moar stuff:
- Hardrace camber kit
- ASR subframe brace
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-W...o/DSC_0258.JPG
I would like to take this moment to thank my current daily, an auto NA Volvo S40. Not the car of my chose, it was Gramps. Looking to replace the Volvo mobile - Kelvin's Honda parts getter, for another Honda, because "The power of dreams..."
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t...6382550133.jpg
you selling those itr suspension?
pm u mad? he needs one
Yea, ITR sussy up for sale.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
He wants a set in good condition.
Mine are, except that 1 of them are slighty leaking... or just covered in greasy goo.
Wonder how expensive ro rebuikd, assuming u can rebuild
Am i on drugs, rebuilding stock sussy.
Thanks mocchi but met
Why no thank cbautoQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
why would i thank you, you piece of shitQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Advice like this is one of the many reasons you havent been appointed a forum MODERATORQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
which one is leaking?
One of the fronts.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Mocchi has asked for an update.
Nothing much, I've got uni 5 days a week. Two days ago, picked up my DC2R sussy assembly from JDMyard + new pair of rear RDA rotors.
The boys at JDMyard did all sussy bushings, except front camber arms since I haz recently acquired Hardrace v2 camber kit, they did the rear camber arms (dunno why), and except compliance bushings, which I can do myself. Just a couple bolts and the 2 nuts, yea? DIY yo!
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/DSC_0265.JPG
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-d...o/DSC_0266.JPG
CBF taking moar pics, new rubber looks like new rubber. Meh.
Thanks JDMyard! Supporting local business.
Here's the NEW Hardrace front engine mount bushings (which I got awhile ago) compared to ones off the B18CR which done approx. ~90,000km, if the kid who sold me the engine is telling the truth. Ignore the disfigured bushing, I did that. :p
The mechanics at JDMyard are pro, undid the nuts within an instant, which I had trouble undoing.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8...o/DSC_0263.JPG
Notice the different designs of the bushings.
What's next?
- Go to wreckers and source an OEM front bumper, and DC2R 22mm rear swaybar.
- Get some tyres changed.
- Go to Supercheap Auto for a new battery, and stuff.
- Acquire Timing kit and obd1 to d2 harness from a fellow Ozhondie.
- ....
das it
btw, I aint no troll
Can you come up with any other encouraging comments?Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
So placed an order on x2 Federal 595 RSR in 205/50 r 15 yesterday. Got them fitted today, including balancing all four.
Dem sexy DC2R Enkei's.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-I...o/DSC_0276.JPG
Gotta love the smell of new rubber!
Toyo R1R (left) - Federal 595 RSR (right)
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-w...o/DSC_0277.JPG
This is unrelatedly related, sold my Limited Edition Pioneer 400s set earlier this week for a premium. Most of my funds have gone to the car, hence this phrase, and pic.
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-T...7520688945.jpg
booBAAA>doofdoof
Me no understand Ozhonda's spam language. Please educate the younger ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
the sound of an engine revving under load is better than electronic music.,Quote:
Originally Posted by 3K9
Quote:
Originally Posted by 3K9
^ dis wun. Much to learn young padawan.Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Sorry. Barely any update. I only haz one mechanic friend to help me out on the swap, but his schedule is packed as f***! =S
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iU...=w1108-h623-no
Recently got myself a Jazz Vti-s MT. I <3 Honda.
Got these months ago from the dude posted above^. Came from his previous EG.
And they have lumbar hand-pump for lower back support. WTF, FTW, haha!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sA...0=w351-h623-no
Driver's side bolster is f***ed. I'll order a new bolster foam and padding and then follow up a DIY instruction on some forum.
So my 'Type R' interior shall be:
- SR4 Recaros, with DC2R rails.
- Rear DC2R Recaros
- Rear DC2R boot carpet (Attached to rear seats, dunno if it'll fit. Yet to try. I reckon it's likely for a nice fit since EG/DC share the same chassis.)
- DC2R gear knob
- DC2R shift boot cover
- DC2R steering wheel
- DC2R floor mats
- And DC2R space saver, if you count that!
- Genuine Mugen pedals.
(All acquired)
- Getting DC2R carpet by this week, and some other DC2R part.
That mainly concludes my interior.
CEEBS a DC2R dash.
I'm considering an EG6 centre console, since the lack of small storage compartments.
I recently purchased a large whiteboard for the garage, because project planning.
Ordered off Ebay, single din pocket storage thingy on its way. Yes, speakers are/were out! What's a better sound system that a B18CR weeteec?
What I did today (yesterday).
- Removed alot of driver's door sound deadening tar off, with a paint scraper, then degreaser to finish. (Previous or previous previous.. owner removed the other side's deadening completely, but not the driver's side. I know, my car's dodgey as fk, but wait till I mention about the wiring...
- (I got another spare interior set last year, alot cleaner, better condition that my existing interior)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/FD...=w1108-h623-no
Top: Is my Si trim.
Bottom: From memory, I think it's from a '94/'95 Gli.
Dat darker trim matches up to my Type R interior. :D
Antenna delete, because future racecar, weight reduction!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/we...=w1108-h623-no
Acquired OEM block-off plate off Ebay dunno when. (BTW, make sure you order a RHD one, if you do. You may want to order a new rubber seal as well.)
That front screw doesn't screw in as deep as the other, so the fitment isn't tight as the front end. Dunno if a thin piece of rubber will hold off the rain? Should I apply some (what) kinda sealant? The A pillar leads down to the wiring beneath the dash.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eY...s=w351-h623-no
Ordered a kitchen scale. Will see how much I've removed.
progress is slow.
Ay, slow n steady wins the race. Talking about Ozhonda's slowest build...Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
THA- DA!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pD...4r7ivW=s699-no
FINALLY. I have wanted to do DIS for nearly 2 years!
Will decided whether or not to respray da engine bay. Yes or no? Only cost about 500 dolla.
All thanks to Mr Jonno Chow for coming to help, because he wanted to borrow my engine crane. Brother from another asian mother!
Strapped in! At this moment, we still had a few things to disconnect. Silly us noobs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_j...=w1243-h699-no
YAY! :)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5M...=w1243-h699-no
EG56 Type R in the making, yo!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/hM...=w1243-h699-no
Silly me, I thought I could use the stock engine harness, Jonno realised that the plugs compared to the B18C are different. So I need to get a suitable harness.
These plugs were too hard to disconnect, even with 2 asian man powa. Ended up cutting da wires.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4M...=w1243-h699-no
Need to go to work now, will update moarr later.
I loldQuote:
Originally Posted by 3K9
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ox...A=w394-h699-no
Couldn't get any of these joints including the upper one to come off (except for one side of the steering rack). Soaked in WD40, hit them hard as fk like a firetruck's cannon, to no avail. Ended up turning and pulling the wheel assembly and just got enough clearance for the driveshafts to slip out of the hubs.
Any tips, Ozhondies? Heatgun, blow torch? What should I do?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sn...W=w394-h699-no
Here are da mods that I have hoarded, well most of them. Experienced Honda nuts, please review my list and feel free to make any comments/suggestions/mod recommendations. Of course, I will be getting moarr parts. These parts will get me going, into essentially an EG Type R and beyond (basically all the goodies of a DC2R), cute little street-able 4 banger, setup to able to perform out-fkn-standing on the track.
I may have mentioned that I am building a quality EG Civic with mainly JDM parts (Jdm yo), and quality USDM parts. I DO NOT want to use any cheap, fake parts. (except for my front lip and single din pocket, and the PLM products). I will be going ALL OUT on this EG, the love my life, with no expense spared (within reasonability and functionability compared to cost, ie, 2 core instead of 3 core radiator, and cheap rear blank discs instead of DBA T3s which are about x4 more costly).
Parts to get (short-term):Quote:
Acquired mods to do list
Engine and drivetrain Components
JDM DC2R ’98 B18CR motor - using JDM '98 ECU
PLM (Toda-rep) 4-2-1 headers
PLM test pipe - (not yet haz: high flow cat)
Buddyclub spec IV exhaust
Hasport engine mounts
Hardrace engine torque mounts
PasswordJDM Dry Carbon Fibre PowerChamber intake with velocity stack
Mishimoto 2-core performance aluminium radiator
Mishimoto performance aluminium fan shroud
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Accessories – Dress up:
Spoon type-D radiator cap
Spoon Reservoir covers
PasswordJDM magnetic engine and tranny drain plug
PasswordJDM billet aluminium Hood Risers
PasswordJDM Oil Cap Blue V.2
PasswordJDM battery tie down
PasswordJDM Dry Carbon Fibre Spark Plug Cover
PasswordJDM Aluminium Radiator Stay Blue
-A/C delete - Honda OEM A/C firewall plug
Bolt Boys Chassis Kit V1
Bolt Boys UCA/Strut Hardware Premium Combo
Bolt Boys Header Hardware Kit
Bolt Boys License Plate Hardware V1
Bolt Boys Complete Motor mount Hardware Kit
Handling: (Suspension, Chassis – Brakes and Wheels)
DC2R steering rack
Tein EG6 Mono Flex Coilovers
DC2R rear lower camber arms
Hardrace full bushing kit
Hardrace front camber kit V.2
Hardrace rear camber kit
DC2R 24mm front sway bar
DC2R 22mm rear sway bar
PasswordJDM ultimate adjustable sway bar links
PasswordJDM 3 point front strut tower bar
PLM rear crossbar
B pillar bar (Unknown brand)
DC2R front lower subframe brace
ASR Neo-chrome rear subframe reinforcement bar
DC2R 5-stud conversion, including BMS/booster.
Project MU NS400 front and rear
DBA fronts 4000 T3 series front
RDA rears blanks
DC2R 15” Gunmetal Grey rims, wrapped in
Pair of Federal 595RSR 205/50
Pair of Toyo R1R 205/50
Interior:
DC5R SR4 Black Recaros, with DC2R rails
DC2R Recaro rear seats
DC2R carpet
DC2R floor mats
DC2R shift knob
DC2R shift boot
DC2R steering wheel
Mugen Sports pedal kit
DC2R space saver wheel
Sound system delete: Minus headunit, front and rear speakers.
Door plastic thingy and tar removal – Fitted Non genuine single din pocket storage
Exterior Body and Aero:
Fresh Honda red R81 respray
Type R Style Urethane front lip (Painted gloss black)
EG6 2 piece wing
EG6/DC2R side indicators
EG6 power-folding mirrors
Antenna delete - Honda OEM antenna block off plate
Honda Access window visors
DC2R wheel nuts
Spoon wiper blades
Amber corner lights
Honda Racing Banner (replica)
lightweight battery
engine harness
Replace old, rusted bolts; bits and pieces with new OEM ones.
Mod, please move to build thread. I haz shown exponential growth of progress, relative to my slow-ass progress, haha.
You need dedicated tools or you need to exert upward force on the knuckle and downward force onto the lca.
You can exert upward force to the knuckle by propping it up with a Jack.
Once a substantial amount of force is applied, swear at it and threaten to burn it if it doesn't come off. Then you hit it as hard as you can with the biggest hammer you can find. (Bigger = more force)
If all else fails. Cbauto does home visits.
try a mini sledge hammer or spanner trick
make sure you're hitting the lca not the balljoint
out of all that list-
no to hardrace camber arms, rubbish, shit hardware that comes with, shit overall finish, will rust where its not painted, ugly welds
no to plm header, i had to pay an exhaust place 2 hours labor to make mine fit (i installed it, took it to the exhaust shop to marry up with my exhaust, the piece of shit header was facing up into my floor )
if its your daily don't delete aircon, i strongly regret doing this to my car (summer up north sucks hard)
why two different tyres?
rest looks ok
ball joint- put weight on it (jack) the hit the arm with a hammer, or buy a ball joint separator for 30ish bucks
Fuk upQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Do everything opposite what user u mad said just for extreme challenge
nh but u fuk upQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
or you can do this also, up to you eh heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeQuote:
Originally Posted by RenzokukenJ
Just go out and buy a balljoint remover. Repco or sca has it about $20-40. Will make that balljoint pop out very easily. As mentioned you could hammer the shit out of it like literally but you need alot of room space. Buy the ball joint popper.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/jZ...=w1243-h699-no
My jumper harness which I got from Mr. Toda Aus last yr doesn't fit my '98 JDM ECU. =/
Looks it's for an obd2b ecu, yea?
In the process of stripping the engine bcuz cuz, it's a definite YES to engine bay respray, estimate it'll cost around 500 dolla to be done professionally. I haz made up my mind. I want this car be looking brand-spankingly meticulously as close to new, clean as fk, as expressed in this meme.Quote:
http://www.hondata.com/images/stackof4ecus.jpg
(Technical Information ECU Identification - https://www.hondata.com/tech-ecu-identification)
From top to bottom:
OBD2B (left 3 plugs used)
OBD2A ECU
OBD1 ECU
OBD0 (JDM PR3 and PWO)
http://memecrunch.com/meme/57P78/kev....jpg?w=400&c=1
Motivated to say yes when I saw this pic: :D
http://image.superstreetonline.com/f...engine_bay.jpg
Before respraying the bay, I'll ask my repair shop to fully fix up the front radiator support, out of shape and needs a few spot welds.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zQ...=w1243-h699-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...=w1243-h699-no
L(o.o)k at dat rust. Covered in dirt, rusty rust and sh!t. Worried about that bolts holding it wouldn't come off easily.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dW...Y=w394-h699-no
It took a few minutes of archaeology-ing with my flat-head screwdriver to to remove the crap to uncover the three bolts.
=/ As suspected, the bolt's head have gone with the flow of corrioding. They all have lost their shape, how to heck am I gonna remove it? They were 12mm bolts. Tried 12mm, nup. Then 11mm, it slips. 10mm, too small.
Any suggestions Ozhondies?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bB...=w1243-h699-no
Here's what it's meant to look like in a nice condition.
So jelly. :(Quote:
http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i2...Picture120.jpg
(DIY Removed A/C lines - http://www.civic-eg.com/viewtopic.ph...1b97910d2d2570)
Out of date ground wires. Better upgrade it then.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g1...=w1243-h699-no
Freakin' fking fossilised fugly fuel filter (ffffff hehe).
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iI...=w1101-h699-no
One side of the fuel filter bracket was broken, so I couldn't apply decent force to remove the fuel line (one coming from tank). Bloody bent the filter 90 degrees!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bc...m=w444-h699-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tz...=w1243-h699-no
Have got tube cutters, but decided to bend the line even more till complete metal fatigue. (Problem solving of a lazy eng. student. =).) I'll fix up the line with fitting later.
L(o.o)k at where the rear mounts mounted to. The untouched surface hidden underneath the bolts' head is so nice.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_f...j=w394-h699-no
So, I am gonna aim to finish stripping the bay in 2 days time. 2 dayz? Because I am a noOb. :wave:
The front end is completed stripped. Lights, radiator, condenser, lines, horn, ground wires, power steering reservoir, receiver/dryer, washer fluid tank, bonnet latch and so on, are off. Also undone some stuff here and there.
I need to remove the rusted as fk metal battery tray to remove AC lines, PS hose, and wiring.
Couldn't undo one of the lines from the BMC with a regular open end wrench. Looks like I'll need to invest in flare nut wrenches.
Yo.
u mad. Have you gone mad? Hardrace is lovely quality!Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Have you read the delete sound system and headunit part?
Have see my Jazz thread? Dat auto is my daily. ;)
Might as well start racecar diet now.
Bought the set of my DC2R stockies with used Toyos. Two had excessive camber wear just down to the wire at one part.
Roger that.Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKO_OL
I deleted my sound system as well, another stupid thing i regret doing lol.
i have a jazz daily as well, nice
if you delete the heater core and blower fan under the dash, make sure you plug up the holes, other wise kunt tonnes of hot air will constantly be flooding into the cabin, almost like you have the heater on full blast 24/7
Bought rounded socket set to attempt to remove metal rusty tray. Nup, that didn't work.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vg...bcpl_5=s699-no
Stripped! (Minus two rubber plugs)
Do I need to remove steering rack too? But need steering at the repair though I reckon.
The pin of the brake and especially the clutch pedal was a b!tch to remove. Took too long!
All I had left these past few days were the wiring looms and the AC hose to remove.
Figured out how to pull the wiring loom into the firewall.
Just managed to pull the passenger side loom and AC hose through the gap under the tray. Was tight.
Had to remove Airbox cabin box for passenger side to remove the loom.
Did this awhile ago, stripped firewall insulation, because weight reduction!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ou...w2688-h1520-no
Big plastic bag of 4.7+ kg of unnecessary baggage.
Jack in the pic to give you a scale of the BIG bag.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9D...w2688-h1520-no
Does the firewall/footwell area get hot on the track without insulation?
In
other
slow
news,
today:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ry...8=w640-h480-no
Repair shop - round 2.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wZ...w2688-h1520-no
OMFG, it looks soo farr king good in the sun, the paint hasn't even been buffed/polished yet!
Getting an OEM front bar resprayed as I don't like the fitment of the aftermarket. Getting my front lip and side skirts resprayed from shiny black to, matt/non-gloss black, changed of mind. The main feature is the sxc red paint, not shiny black.Quote:
Things to fix from respray:
- Door handles
- Side mirrors –,left mirror left corner touch up, right side in front of mirror touch up
- Passenger door sider moulding edge
- Dot of paint at left handle side taillight
- Fix rear license plate light lense, was too resprayed red
- Fix front end damage, straighten up and weld up radiator support, and additional spot welds if necessary.
- Bumps on left side, side skirt
- Fix both front inner edge of fenders, straighten them.
- Crack developed infront left rear wheel, and corner of both doors.
Other things that I would like to done:
- Respray front radiator support and engine bay – Honda red R81. – Shave small mount on right shock tower, - weld up 4 screw holes in firewall. Respray bay from outside edge.
- Respray inside area of doors – Red R81
- Cut off rusted battery tray
- Make the seams in engine bay seamless, smooth with flexible filler?
- Respray whole rear hatch area. Initially I asked to just respray the outside, however from the respray, some paint has leaked through and got mixed with dirt
- Adding to above, respray underside of rear spoiler (and touch up marks)
- Fix both front door’s edge and when they meet
- Respray my original front bumper bar - Red R81. (sitting in your storage area) Grille: Matt/non gloss black.
- Respray inner fuel door area
- Respray both side skirts to matt/non gloss black.
- Respray front lip to matt/non gloss black.
- Seal rear boot crack.
Yes, we should of sprayed inside (inner doors, bay, hatch area) first, then outside. However, I have more funds working part-time at the 'Fresh Food People' now than last year.
going all out. good stuff.
pikcha no gud
satin bleck
As they say, "she's a keeper".Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
#EG4life
All out, except respraying the interior, it is, well most of it is gonna be covered with the nice DC2R carpet anyway.
I will be ordering OEM goodies again, all nuts and bolts that are fugly, seals, grommets, etc which looks like they need to be replaced, I will replace!
pics are dead mayne
Pic no worky m8y
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Quote:
Originally Posted by carayan
Quote:
Originally Posted by YeahByuddy
Soz. Viewable now?Quote:
Originally Posted by ouch
Need to motivate myself more, so I am gonna keep posting whenever I can:
Nov 2015:
Wow much monies spent. Such JDM. Took advantage of the 8% off Defi products rhdjapan had campaigned. I <3 rhdjapan. Prices are most of the time the cheapest, customer service is top quality, and is website layout is nice and easy to use. (although the search function is a bit slow.) There's deals going on left right and centre, 24/7!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Dc...w2736-h1540-no
- Defi Link Advance CR - Oil, Temp. and Water Gauges.*
- Defi Link Advance Control Unit (necessary to use CR gauges).
- Defi Advance BF 11Krpm Tacho.**
- Defi Indicator Lamp
- Defi Racer Bezel
- Trust GReddy hose attachment
- APP Sandwich plate.
* Bought a single din gauge off Ebay.
**According to Best motoring, the mighty B18CR in stock form can rev safety to ~9500rpm no problem. You guys reckon I should of got the 9Krpm gauge instead? I am having second thoughts about the 11K rpm gauge now, until 3K rpm, the meter is quite squished, ahhh... I can use the bezel that I got to mark the 10K rpm mark below 9K. Good idea, Kelvin.
http://www.nippon-seiki.co.jp/defi/m..._blue_9000.jpg
http://www.nippon-seiki.co.jp/defi/m...blue_11000.jpg
Yonas's EG. Gonna do da same! :)
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...4/DSC09940.jpg
Jan 2016:
Rywire Goodies!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Vp...w2736-h1540-no
- Budget tucked Engine Harness
- ECU Jumper Harness
- Charge Harness
- Ground Kit
..along with stickers and shirt + shipping = US$7** = AU$10**. =S
Don't be put off with the word 'Budget'. At US$S450 for the harness, it ain't no budget to me! The harness is really well made. It seems Rywire has clearly intended to differentiate the standard 'budget' harness, to their flagship Mil-spec harness.
So I'll visit the repair shop in the next few days and see how they are doing.
Pretty much have everything for the Civic, except need a custom fuel line [(inlet) from fuel rail to bottom area of engine bay, make it look nice] along with inline fuel filter, a battery, OEM goodies to restore back to showroom condition, and other bits and bobs. I have probably have forgotten something.
Talking about OEM goodies, I am currently compiling a list of OEM parts to get, and unfortunately, Honda has started to discontinue parts for the EG. As one of the most iconic Honda fanboy car, how can they discontinue... For example, rear tailight seals. :(
Make your own tail light gaskets with this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/290975571...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
4mm too thickQuote:
Originally Posted by grifty
3mm betterer
fuking beast m8
Done two weeks ago:
Inner door area, inner fuel door and inner hatch area was resprayed. Both doors, fenders (They previously did a crap job of the edges) and the entire rear quarter area was resprayed again, to have the paint looking flawless, instead of a line of difference if they had masked it. So basically the Eggy got another repspray again, minus bonnet, roof and rear hatch and bumper. I didn't ask for it.
Apparently getting rid of of the seams took quite alot of work. Yea, I want them more seamless. The seams on the EG look ugly. EKs are significantly more seamless.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lg...I=w511-h907-no
(Ugly seams)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R9...=w1321-h747-no
I decided not to get rid of the mount for airbox, just in case I get defected with my whale penis intake (with heatshield), before I get it engineered certified. (If it can pass, induction noise is loud!)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ok...=w1321-h747-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ih...=w1321-h747-no
Apparently it took quite a-lot of man hours in removing the seams (and afterwards making it nice and smooth).
Naked shot:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zG...=w1321-h747-no
My repair shop is really busy from the look of the cars packed inside and out. My EG need moar attention = + progress.
Can't see my pics?
they worked earlier,must have expired links
use https://postimage.org/web.php
Nice and soooth. Same on the other side. :)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TZ...=w1264-h715-no
Welded back together.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ei...=w1264-h715-no
I WILL FIX MY PICS FROM PREVIOUS PAGE
I hurried them up, so they painted the bay on Saturday, coming home later this week.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OS...=w1264-h715-no
Lower front subframe bar is still slightly bent, told them to straighten it out. -.-
ETA on getting Project EG56R running: Feb 2017
lol still bent
Them wogs! :mad:Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
I WILL make sure that they fix it, and any arising issues. Paid my hard-earnt money!
Actually isn't too bad, just my perfectionist-self wants it too be pulled back into place:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AS...A=w513-h907-no
Dec 23th
Babe back home:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lf...w=w513-h907-no
Smooth as...
I'm lovin' it! Are you?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/00...=w1321-h747-no
Dec 25th
Installed Honda AC delete firewall plug. (Christmas Day, I at least had to do something, make progress, instead of procrastinating.)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wS...Q=w513-h907-no
Dec 26th
Pulled out dodgy-ass wired up aftermarket alarm system.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mg...=w1321-h747-no
Dec 26th/27th
Vacuumed, then scrubbed the whole bare interior.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xj...A=w681-h907-no
I did more scrubbing after this pic was taken. Too much dirt accumulated, especially driver's side.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VX...HB1hVg=s907-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sd...KM_CcQ=s907-no
- Didn't take any pics, but also washed all the seat belts with hot soapy car wash soap, left them in the buckets for a while, then submerged them in hot water buckets for rinsing. Using clamps to stop the retractors from reeling in the belts. I repeated the progress the day after except with dishwash soap this time. All the belts seem to retract slighty faster, except for one, which got worse (-.- - rectractor accidently fell into the bucket of water). Was recommended to use silicone spray into the retractor. I shall try.
As you can see, the clutch master cylinder failed, and the brake fluid ate the paint and became rusty. Sanded off what I could, then WD40'ed the area as a form of rust prevention.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/a4...Q=w513-h907-no
Jan 2nd - Brake discs replacement
So when I brought my DC2R 5 stud to JDMyard for them to replace all them bushings to Hardrace ones, Yonas highly recommended me to replace the discs as well due to the condition of them...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/yE...b=w681-h907-no
... so I decided with a decent setup consisting of DBA 4000 series T3 fronts and RDA rear blanks:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ft...=w1321-h747-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6J...w=w513-h907-no
L (o.o) k at the nice criss-cross finish!
Sorry OCD peeps, yes front and rear discs are different colours. I don't really mind though.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6q...=w1321-h747-no
Fitted. Sanded off as much rust off the hub prior, of course.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QD...Q=w681-h907-no
Top: Rears: EG 239mm vs DC2R 260mm
Bottom: Fronts: EG 262mm vs DC2R 282mm.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gA...g=w681-h907-no
EG's rear trailing arm bushing, one side is completely torn!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V4...=w1276-h722-no
So the cover bolster replacement for from Capital Seating in the UK for driver's side Recaro seat came up really tight, 2cm shorter compared to the original bolster. I fitted them onto the seat, but it is waaayyyy too tight.
Top new bolster foam and bolster cover.
Bottom is original.
In contact with them now regarding this issue atm.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qV...=w1320-h747-no
Jan 5th
Off comes steering rack, DC2R upgrade instead. EG 3.4 vs DC2R 2.9 turns lock-to-lock. 'F1 inspired steering' is what a review described DC2R's steering. (Will try to find the review.)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ri...A=w916-h518-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/F6...=w1276-h722-no
Derp, I didn't know that the EG's spindle coupling (sits in between the steering rack and the steering column) is different to the DC2/4's. In search of DC's wrecking...
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OV...w=w504-h891-no
2014 Tein Mono Sport Dampers EG6/DC2R. Been sitting in my room for almost 3 years, lol. A tiny spider called the box of Tein's its home!
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0D...=w1276-h722-no
Hardrace V.2 Adjustable front camber arms.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uh...=w1276-h722-no
So the EG's service manual instructs to align the anchor bolts, but didn't specify how... so I just copied the stock camber arm, parallel with the ball joint. With a ruler, looking with left eye, then right eye and then both, ensuring that the anchor bolts lined up with the ruler.
Did I align them right?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aB...=w1276-h722-no
(Note: Bolts was fitted incorrectly in this pic, meant to be from the other side.)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ap...=w1276-h722-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3U...g=w504-h891-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mu...=w1276-h722-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/U3...Q=w504-h891-no
Downstar shock tower dress ups: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YX...=w1209-h907-no
I forgot to give these to the guys at the workshop. The original bolts scraped off the paint already :S
Jan 8th
Went to wreckers and took off myself a DC4's coupling. Installed when I came home afterwards.
DC's (left) vs EG's.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/06...=w1276-h722-no
Man, that one of two 10mm bolts on the coupling took me 15min+ of loosening using a spanner infront of the driver's seat at the wreckers. The space where the coupling is located is so tight that I could only do like 1/16 turns!
So much faster in the engine bay!
Hardrace rear adjustable camber arms
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z...=w1276-h722-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/7D...=w1276-h722-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rv...=w1276-h722-no
Front sussy from an angle:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3J...=w1210-h685-no
Test fit them sexy DC2R wheels:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/lu...=w1210-h685-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XY...=w1210-h685-no
Calipers are off atm. Gonna renewal those +25kw of added MCM powaa. (Respray)
Jan 10th
Refreshed bonnet stay clip with a new one.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/s5...=w1210-h685-no
Managed to take off the plugs that were really stuck on the loom. Your learn a-lot from mechanics... pry the sides alternatively to get them off.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W9...=w1210-h685-no
- Also partially fitted almost relatively new clutch master cylinder (cmc). (Brake pedal assembly fits onto the cmc from behind the firewall.)
Gave her a bit of vitamin d during sunset.
Notice the positive camber at the rear, haha! I matched the length as to the stock camber arm though. Maybe cos bushing changed + not at the same height are the factors.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Op...=w1210-h685-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XW...=w1210-h685-no
Sorry for the blurry pics, I think I have scratched the lens too much. =/
Washed subframe and underneath with the garden hose on 'jet mode'.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/n9...=w1210-h685-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pB...=w1210-h685-no
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3h...w=w504-h891-no
Cleaned right infront of windscreen. Afterwards when I packed up, I realised I didn't clean out dirt/leaves out properly on the sides. The next day, I whipped out degreaser to loosen all the 23 year old gunk, with the garden hose on 'jet', managed to hose off remaining stuff.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/v4...=w1210-h685-no
(Hrs after initial wash, that is just only a bit of remaining gunk I managed to pull out by hand!)
Jan 12th
Installed DC2R subframe lower tie bar:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/V-...=w1210-h685-no
So I haz two different DC2R brake master cylinders, both are 1". Any difference between them?
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d_...=w1210-h685-no
Inspected the fuel tank. Very dirty/sandy. Will need to drop the tank to clean it. Don't want the filters clogged with sh!t.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/34...=w1254-h710-no
Stay tuned.
baller
use the bmc on the left - the later model 1" BMC (98-00) have 2x 10mm fittings whereas the earlier model has 1x 12mm, 1x 10mm. you might need to bend the first line a bit too
FYI don't leave the car rolling on the ground without axles installed and torqued. the front wheel bearings need to be torqued and loaded or may cause premature wear. keep it jacked up or install some outer cv's
Ok, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by dorikin
^Edited in info about Recaro replacements into timeline.