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I have been working hard at uni lately and have had less and less time for the Aerodeck. But I temporarily fixed the idle problem. It was the cold start mechanism sticking shut, so I disabled it for now so I can register the vehicle and it seems to sit steady at about 600 - 700rpm :)
I also bought this parts book. Every single part number I could ever want + break downs of every component. It has already been worth the $50 I spent on it :)
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I took the Aerodeck out for our first drive today too. Only around the block to test the brakes and to make sure it runs correctly. It is amazing, I am utterly and hopelessly in love with this car. It's smooth, the engine runs well, it's got a unique Japanese feel to it! It's just PERFECT! :D I cannot wait until I get it registered and use it as a daily!
I took advantage of it being out and took some photos!
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I also took a short video of how the JDM digital climate control works. I couldn't find any videos of it online and found very few pictures of it so I thought I would post one. :) It's very cool!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvNOS4Zl2ng
I suppose that's all there is to update at the moment. :)
That's a sexy bit of gear, does it actually cool? 'cause in a car of that age, most unusual. That book is a great find. Glad you found the idle problem, wonder if it's got similar carbs as the D15B's, might interchange if it needs a new one.
I just found the "H" monogrammed carpet mats that were in the JDM CA wreck I first bought, a Tan colour. Vacuumed them off today, will give them a clean tomorrow, just a minor bit of heel scuffing on the driver's side H, otherwise very good cond. Put them up for sale soon.
That's so ****ing kool man
Yep, it all works as it should :) When I turn the temp up, it heats up, when I turn it down, it cools. I just need to get the aircon regassed :)Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
Mhm, I'm very happy with the book so far. :) It's helped to provide a good insight of certain jobs I've been doing as there is next to no information online about this engine :P
Oh nice, I've seen those carpets in pictures. :) If they were gray I would probably buy them from you :P Do you have any pictures? :) Post them, let's see!
:D :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Weathers been a bit damp to give them a clean and get dry. Will be posting pics as soon as I can.Quote:
Originally Posted by YOanthony
Does it have power steering?
If so watch out for the hose spilitting, mine split in the worst place of all.
Mine split in front of the exhaust manifold so there was smoke every where.
Okay, cheers for this info. :) I will check them when I get the car back.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayfox
After a lot of time on the phone today I found out that I cannot get insurance for this vehicle as it doesn't have a compliance 'exempt' sticker (something all imported vehicles needed to have). The reason it doesn't have one is because technically the Aero doesn't need one because it was made before 1989 which means it doesn't have to comply with the ADR (Australian Design Rules). BUT, South Australia overrides the rule with their own laws stating that cars made before 1985 don't need to comply. So I have to follow the SA law. Which means even though I don't need a sticker, apparently in SA I do... So insurance wont give me insurance for the car, but I can't drive the car without insurance. So after more time on the phone, I got an application for driving an unregistered vehicle which allows me to say "I'll be driving the vehicle from A, using roads 1, 2, 3 and 4 to get to B". It doesn't give me insurance for my car, or cover emergency crew levies in the case something happens... it just covers the other person's car.. which... was enough to get me to the chassis repair shop. :D So today I drove the Aero down to the chassis shop and the helpful owner said it should be done late next week or early the following the week. :) I must say, the drive was amazing. Very comfortable, I felt safe, I thoroughly enjoyed it. :D The shop owner's assistant also gave me a compliment and drooled for a little bit :D So win-win-win!
So after I get this done, I need to get a new muffler, and then it's off to our inspection agency for an ID check and a FULL roadworthy test (I am unhappy about this) to ensure my vehicle is up to standard with the ADRs so I can get that exempt sticker... :mad::mad: This is going to be a long and painful process... :( :(
JDM > all
Ahh dan bro
Minor set backs for the big future of your baby
Make sure you recorded your kms so they don't go all happy and thrash your baby
cant wait to see sum stance on this
Pls
Don't stance.....
haha I'm sure it'll be alright. These guys are actually some of the nicest guys I've met in SA. :) I'm sure it'll be fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
but yes, a minor set back. :( Now I have to fix shit that doesn't work (like rear wiper, hazard lights, etc). But I suppose it's better I get it done now rather than put it off :P
Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Actually guys, this is my plan:Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...07184228_n.jpg
Watanabes. :3 http://otomoto.shop033.com/p/4158324...eel-black.html
Still deciding on brand of tire, but I want 195-50 :3
I'm pretty set on this since it looks so good on the above Aerodeck. :) Watanabes look so good on 80s era cars :D What do you guys think ?
yessssssssssss x10000000
yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah bpoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooi
Lol SA rego and roadworthy rules are ridiculous. The DA6 which has been regod in SA for 8 years before I got it and has a compliance plate needed a sticker which they sent in the mail as soon as we transferred ownership. No questions asked but a fairly obvious threat that if we don't put it on we will be in trouble. The DA5 however which I brought over last year, is a repaired vehicle with a new VIN, no compliance plate- they told me to put a piece of paper in the glovebox. Still no sticker or plate! Fkn joke.
Didn't have trouble getting 3rd party insurance on either of them though through Just Cars. Or were you trying to get comprehensive?
Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Yep, no disagreement from me. The Aero is perfectly fine according to NATIONAL law... God this state is stupid. I even noticed the difference in government workers. I called QLD Transport Department and the people who served me were extremely helpful, extremely friendly and one of them put me on hold for a few minutes and when she got back to me she couldn't stop apologising. I call ServiceSA and they pick up the phone like "what do you want?" -.-Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Well, I got my mum to call RAA (as that's who we're with) to put the insurance in her name so that it would be cheaper. RAA said the only insurance they do for imports is full comprehensive. They said the insurance would be $516 per year (which aint too bad!) and they would insure for an agreed value of $6,000 I think it was ? But they said without the exempt sticker, they wouldn't touch the vehicle. Which was stupid!!!!! I could not get it through my head... NATIONAL laws say the car is fine, it has had an ADR check in the passed too! But STATE laws say it has to have a sticker. STUPID stupid laws.
Picked up a badge for the steering wheel. It'll sit where the 'H' badge is in this picture
https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.n...39582704_n.jpg
So this is the new badge, the first picture is when it arrived and the second picture is of a quick clean up i did with some plastic polish and regular polish (but only by hand). Unfortunately it's quite tarnished and doesn't have a nice glossy film... it's more like leather. Any ideas on how to bring it back ?
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Oh. My. God.
That is so cool. Wish my car won car of the year
Thanks :D I knew I had to have it when I saw it!Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Definitely a cool little extra :3
Hello guys it's been a while since I've given an update. Sorry about that. :/ I've started a new Facebook page I've been updating which made me a little slack to come back on OH. Here's the link if you want to check it out or give it a 'like': https://www.facebook.com/GaijinAerodeck
I've had a small change of direction since I last posted. I've found more rust which is a pain... and it's in the worst place of all, the hatch! I'm unsure as to whether it'll be repairable, but I am banking on the fact it will be. I plan to strip the car completely (engine, wiring, every nut, bolt and screw.. everything) and then get it completely resprayed. So pretty much starting with a straight, completely brand new paint and rust free car. :) I'm also looking at acquiring BNIB parts over second hand, however if I find something in second hand I'll generally pick it up regardless. Here's a list of what's been acquired since last time I updated.
BNIB Bosch Foglights $150USD w/o shipping:
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Cool Aerodeck Brochure $10USD w/o shipping
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https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...4e&oe=5480980C
JDM PFM with chrome trim, button and control box $135 w/o shipping (I have PFM at the moment, however I am under the assumption they're seized, so I will just use the mirrors. It will be good to have a spare button and control box ... just in case)
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Accord brochure $9.60USD shipped
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https://fbcdn-sphotos-f-a.akamaihd.n...63143616_n.jpg
https://scontent-a-lax.xx.fbcdn.net/...fa&oe=54792677
Replacement Aerodeck Manual $10USD w/o shipping (top old manual, bottom new manual)
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https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.n...14081980_n.jpg
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.n...ad10b0d5d32756
Replacement driver's side tail light $10USD w/o shipping
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BOSE speaker covers $50USD shipped
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BNIB Parking Pole $220 w/o shipping
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Here is the rust in the tailgate. I also found out why my rear wiper wasn't working... turns out for some reason (that I really cannot understand) they chopped the plug off at the motor ... so there's just 4 or 5 wires hanging about ... hmmm...
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Repainted the rocker cover. This was before I had made the move to strip the car.
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I think that's about it. I am a little upset I won't be driving it anytime in the near future. However it will be well worth the wait to ensure all the rust is taken out and to start a fresh with awesome paint and some replaced parts. Pretty much I'm saying the paranoia will be removed of something falling off, of snapping, or breaking or rusting to pieces, etc etc.
Oh, I guess I should say this. I'm still unsure as to whether I'll do all this work and this register it, or register it and then do the work. I have a few things left on my check list to complete before it goes to get register. I guess it will depend on how I want to spend the money when I get to that point in time.
Holy **** man thats alot of collected parts
You sneaky man hahahah
By the way did you ever get the chassis fixed
Actually ...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
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Yes, I did. :)
Hell yeah man
While they were at it
Should of resprayed the whole under car
Oops
Should not of said that
Now you're gonna be paranoid about rust under there :P
This car makes me sad.
It reminds me of my 1987 CA accord Si sedan.
I miss her and her polar white body.
Yes, i still remember the color name of the car, NH512 that was the color code which i also remember.
I also had the master starter key.
How much was the chassis fix if you don't mind me asking?
If im not mistaken was over $500
Yeah they should of. Oh well :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Time to invest in another ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Grayfox
Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
Actually, it was $1,100 with an engineer's report. The work is top quality stuff. And the bloke had it done quite quickly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
I am not fussed about how much it cost. It gives me confidence that he did it right the first time.
Not with the 11L/100km fuel economy and my $480/month repayments for my FK2Quote:
Originally Posted by YOanthony
I still have the CAs master key which has a lot of sentimental value.
Dont know what my next car will be.
May not be a honda since they no longer offer manual on their cars unless you go to the povo spec.
These arrived in the mail today.
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https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...e03f8b31abc43c
1x headlight washer button
1x air refiner button
2x washer nozzles from an EF
These set me back $200USD shipped. Not a bad deal I think considering no one parts out JUST the jets.
I currently have a friend in the UK who has gone and crashed one of his Aerodecks which had headlight washers so after he gets through with his insurance, he said he'd be keen to sell his washer bottle to me (which will have the spout for the headlight washers). However it's broken, so hopefully some small repairs can be made to fix it up.
I was also looking at twin pot front calipers on eBay and unfortunately there's only one seller, and he's asking like $165USD w/o shipping. So expensive. I was hoping to take them for $100 :/ I messaged him and he won't budge.
Hey, long time !
I've been in Europe ! But I'm back. Money is being poured into the Aerodeck now. My parents are looking for a new house (to build) and there just won't be enough room for 7 cars so my dad and I are (almost) being forced to sell one each. :/ So the purple Accord will go and I'll keep the Aero. However I have a year and a half before I need to sell the purple one.
As for the Aerodeck, today I got out and fixed up all the minor issues I was worried about before Regency. I fixed my hazard button - which turned out to be a blown fuse.. fml. I only replaced them quite recently too. I may have a short.
I also went to a wrecker and picked up an ED/EF hatch rear wiper loom. The old owner had cut the plug off mine. I got the loom (which mind you, had the original plug which was the same as the Aerodeck and 2 plugs for the rear demister) and soldered it to where the old loom had been cut and plugged it in. I had to extend one of the demister plugs so I soldered that and it all fit. The reason I got one with a demister is because the ones on the Aerodeck went missing when they cut the original male plug off. And that fixed the last problem too which was the demister not working. A great day with only $5 spent in total for the loom !
Now with everything up to my satisfaction I just need to replace the rusted muffler and I'll be good to go to Regency. Muffler is booked for 13/03 and Regency will be booked for 20/03. All going to plan I'll have it registered in 2 weeks and have it for the next SAHC meet and cruise !
I'm EXTREMELY excited ! I finally get to drive my dream car everyday and everywhere !!
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...9e01eeeaeffec2
Here's a vid on my Facebook page if you'd like to see the brilliance of interchangeable parts and a moment of clarity when my dad said to check the fuses.
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=940025966021680
Yesterday after a solid charge I started it up and it fired up after the first crank. It was like music to my ears. Idled beautiful at about 700-900rpm. (Here's a video of it living ! https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=940601615964115)
However there was quite a bit of smoke coming out of the extractors (of which I can only assume is oil). It burnt like it and smelled like it. I'm not worried as I started it again today and nothing came out. It must have burned off yesterday which is good :3
I also had a friend come over today and we tackled another problem (which I didn't really remember I had until yesterday). The problem was that out of the 3 washer nozzles on the car, only half of one was working. There was a blockage in the rear hose (luckily quite easy to get to and fix), the driver side nozzle wasn't even attached to anything and the passenger side was just blocked. I went to Repco and got some hose and a T piece and connected the front ones up. That's all working now. Quite beautifully I must say, however I think there's a leak as there was a puddle of water under the car after I'd finished playing. It makes me nervous but I'm hoping I'll get away with it through Regency and be able to fix it afterwards.
Although the rear squirts as well, there's a leak too. I had a small trim piece taken off around the area of the hatch and when I was squirting the rear nozzle, water was flowing out of this trim piece down the body on the interior. Some landed in the seats. I'm going to stuff a rag in there and keep my fingers crossed.
It may seem like I'm doing things dodgy (which I am) however it's time to get this registered. Believe me - I'll be fixing these issues. Immediately too. But for now, the inspection will give me a good indication as to whether there's anything I've missed or still need to do. I don't want to say I'm confident, but it's look promising and I'm very excited. :)
Maybe thats why the rear hatch has rusted through
because of that hose problem
Good stuff man!
The rear window washers were/are the greatest roof and hatch door rust causes invented. I'm not looking forward to ever taking the head lining or rear trim out of my CRX. Not just because of the leaks from their hoses but from through their mounting holes.
2nd only to sunroofs.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Thanks for the votes of confidence <3 hahahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
No no it's fine. My plan is to completely restore this car. I heard you can strip a car down to just the metal and have the chassis dipped in some sort of chemical that repels rust. You bet your ass I'll be getting it done so I no long have to worry about any rust issues.
I only keep my fingers crossed that it hasn't gotten to the point of no return :(
Worst that can happen is you'll have a nice clean colander for your lettuce.Quote:
Originally Posted by YOanthony
LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
A fancy $800 Japanese colander too. I'll be the coolest kid on the block for sure !
Hey guys ! I bought a day permit to take the car down to get a muffler replaced today. It was awesome to drive it again. I'm so addicted. I'm completely head over heels !
Anyway, the muffler + labour only cost $100 which is awesome as I was originally quoted $200-$300.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...pskha9lazq.jpg
The lad who did it told me he got this off a WRX. It's quiet as all hell but I'm sure it'll pass the inspection with no problem !
I do have an oil leak though. Quite a bit of smoke coming from the extractors... I'm struggling to get the shield off as it has a sensor or something attached. I can't figure out how to take it off, but I'll tackle it again this weekend.
I thought it was leftover oil or maybe I spilled some but it would have burned off by now as I start car everyday. It smells a lot too. I'm starting to think it may not pass. Even on short drives (10 mins or so) there is a bit of smoke coming out from the bonnet. Any ideas ?
Unrelated - taken this morning before getting to the exhaust shop :)
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psnvzcartw.jpg
I took some HD photos too but I haven't gone through and edited them yet. I'll post them up soon. :) They turned out pretty decent. The Aerodeck is quite photogenic.
That's all for now.
Check the valve cover gasket along it's front edge, oil will run down onto the exhaust manifold from there. On your engine there will be a TDC sensor bolted on in front of the distributor. Both of those can leak ("O" rings) but normally will run down the end of the engine, not so much onto the exhaust. Probably have to remove the valve cover and if the gasket doesn't break or have splits/cracks in it, you will have to clean it and the head where it contacts, of oil/old sealant and reseal with gasket silicone. Getting a new gasket for that engine may be hard. There are also 4 flat gaskets that seal the spark plug tubes that will need looking at as well and resealing.
The sensor you mentioned is a O2 (oxygen) sensor and IIRC it passes through a hole in the heat shield and is virtually impossible to get a spanner or deep socket on without removing the manifold itself, which just increases the difficulty of loosening it because being off the engine, there's nothing to lever against.
Just to relieve your mind, the oil leak isn't behind there, it'll be from above (as said above)
Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
Thanks for the info. I have removed the valve cover before to try and get a new gasket for the valve cover and new seals for the spark plug tubes. I took it to a Honda dealer and even managed to find an Aerodeck parts book which gave them the part number. They did a nationwide search as well as sending the number back to their head office in Japan but the search returned nothing. So I used some sealant on the gasket and had to reuse the gasket unfortunately.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
Thanks for the info on the sensor. I should have taken a video of the smoke yesterday and where it was coming from - my mistake. It definitely looked like it was originating from behind the shield. It's a shame I can't even get behind there to have a look just to satisfy my curiosity.
I do see moisture built up on the passenger side of the engine (I guess you'd say it's below/near the cams).
I'll see if I can't play around with it tonight. The sensor has a cord attached to it and you're right about the angle. It's a complete bitch however I'll give it a go with an open-ended spanner. I was just unsure as to whether it came out like that.
Honestly thanks again for the info. Engines are a bit foreign to me and I haven't really had any experience playing around with them before. This dual carby setup looks like a nightmare compared to the F22B1 I have in my other Accord too !
There is definitely nowhere behind the manifold for oil to leak from, it will be coming from that cam-cover gasket, running down onto the manifold itself while the engine is standing, then creating smoke when you start up and it gets hot. The only thing you can do is use sealer, but, you'll need to wash every bit of old oil off it and the head surface for it to stick and reseal. I'm also guessing that the gasket has cracks and breaks in it. This is where it can get tricky. It's probably hardened and will break if you try to prise it out, but that may be your only recourse. You would then have to clean out the groove it fits into and the gasket itself of oil, then put sealer into the groove and press the gasket pieces back in, making sure the sealer gets between the broken ends. Then reapply the sealer to both faces before replacing the cover, gon'na be a bit messy.
I wouldn't try to get that sensor out without removing the engine or the radiator etc, because at this age and length of time it'll be stuck real tight. Haven't had any experience with the dual carb setups on these, but the dual choke single setups had an absolute plethora of small hoses (21 IIRC) and pipes attached for the anti-pollution system. PGM-FI is much simpler in that regard, although the type fitted back in the mid '80's had a lot also because they still used vacuum controls.
A thought occurred to me Anthony, the B18A, B20A shared the same basic "architecture" as the B20A6 in the '88-91 B4 AUDM Preludes. It's gasket/s may fit. The engines aren't able to be interchanged because of external differences in alternator etc mountings.
As a last resort, try the B18A1 gasket. The cover is the same style, worth a try.
Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
Thanks for the info once again. I'll let you know how it goes after work.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
I've forgotten the layout of the B18A gasket but the B20A6 and B18A1 are good places to start. I'll see if I can't find one at a local shop (Repco, Autobahn, SCA, etc) as the ones online may take too long to arrive. Unfortunately for inspections they require down payment before you book... ugh. I wanted to book today but don't want arrive and have the car smelling like burnt oil and smoke seeping from the bonnet. Hmm... tough decision but I might get through the weekend and book on Monday. It's probably the safer option at this point as inspections are (or at least last time I went) $180.
Here are a couple HD photos I promised the other day. The Aero looks beautiful. I'm excited to start driving it daily and modifying it heavily.
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psrvavucdk.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psjqahnd2v.png
So. You sir, are a lifesaver :DQuote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
I bought a B20A6 gasket (which - thankfully came with the spark plug tube seals also!) and it's a direct match !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps9jvxwaju.jpg
The previous one (pictured above with the GreyMaxx on it above the rocker cover) was hard, and tough, and stale. The new one slotted right in, was soft and awesome ! I put a thick bead of GreyMaxx on there - just to be safe.
... embarrassingly when I was undoing the bolts for the cover I found one (which coincidentally was the bolt above the cam gears - ie, where the leak was) that was almost completely loose. -.-" Major facepalm!!
I had a look through the cams and saw a lot of fresh oil that had run out of the rocker cover and down the block. I'm about 99.5% confident that was my issue. However changing over the gasket and seals was a good thing to do tonight anyway. There's a small oil build up in the spark plug tubes but I'm sure it'll burn off and there won't be anymore deposits now that I have new seals.
I'm so confident I'll book regency tomorrow for Friday. I hate how I have to pay for the inspection over the phone straight up -.- wish I could pay there.
Anyway, I also got some Sika and perma-glued down the back hatch trim. Left it over night with some weights on there and it seems good today. Woohooo ! The last two weeks with this car have been so lucky and so easy. I'm kinda worried.
More updates to come !
Thanks again hondapop ! You are the best !
Edit: You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to hondapop again
Woohoo man good work
Whered you get the new gasket from?
Noob thing to do to leave the bolts loose :P
Good luck with regency tomorrow
Imsure itll all go well!!!
That's very good news. Now take your plugs out and get some paper towel or cloth, twist/roll it up so you can get it down the plug tubes and give them a wipe out. clean the oil off the plugs or get some new ones, probably needs some anyway. Oil down the tubes, sitting around the plugs will continually vaporise and could cause mis-firing. Wash the ends of the plug connectors with petrol or turps to get rid of oil contamination as well, let them dry thoroughly before reconnecting.
Where else would I get it from ? :P RepcooooooQuote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Regency is not tomorrow. I tried to book it today for Friday but unfortunately they said it's " first come first serve ". ugh, so if it's busy I may not even get inspected (which means I'll be waiting $56). They also said they dunno what the car requires until I get down there. They couldn't tell me whether it would be an ID check, full inspection... anything. UGHHHH. Typical SA govt. bullshit.
I've taken Friday off work so I'll definitely be going down. I'm going to organise the day pass tonight / tomorrow / thursday night so I can just get up early and go!
Thanks for the confidence. The car really isn't that bad. I'll do some final cleanliness stuff tonight (wipe off all the oil, ensure all bolts and screws are in their correct places, etc) and then it's in fates hands ! How excitingly scary !
Okay, I'll do that tonight. The oil won't just burn up on its own ?Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
TY again ! You've been a troubleshooting GOD
The oil in the plug tubes eventually will reduce down to a tar like substance, but you don't want that coating everything.
~~ Forgot to mention. I went to the inspection center on Friday. Got there nice and early at opening at 8am as asked by the two people I spoke to on the phone earlier last week. Both said I could come down and get it inspected. Then the lady at the desk told me I had to first go to get an ID inspection because it's from a different state and then go to vehicle standards to get a list of what is required (ADRs) to pass inspection - which would be sent out by post and I'll get it a week or two. However I told her I was feeling confident and asked if I could go for an inspection. She said yes but to come back after the ID inspection.
I did the ID check, I passed. I rolled up and the guy was like "this is a weird looking car" and I laughed and thanked him. Then he said "I don't like weird" bahahaha :P
Then I went to vehicle standards and found that I was one ADR short. It was for side intrusion panels or something. So I drove to an engineer and it turns out I have the ADR but just needed the paper to say I have it and it complies. This piece of paper cost $350. I was outraged, but happily took it and left for my inspection. I got there and the lady said "sorry, you can't book a same day inspection. You can wait but you'll be behind 2 other people. It's extremely unlikely you will get in today"
Furiously I was about to flip all the lids but my dad walked in and calmed me down. After the 3 hours of jumping through hoops, I waited for another 5 before calling it quits. Booked for Monday which cost me $272 + $43 for an unregistered day pass.
Went in Monday. The car's temp gauge rose to 3/4 about 5 mins before arriving there (did about 20-30 mins of granny driving). I got there and some guy in the carpark pointed out my car was pissing out water. I got out and to check and 750ml had pooled around the wheels. I let it cool down and bought some cold water from a shop across he road and poured it in. Took it through inspection an hour later and passed by the skin of my teeth. The guy doing it said I have a rear brake line that looks like it's about to burst, a lower ball joint about to break and my tires (not my wheels) were sticking 10mm out the guard. But he took it for a drive and said it was one of the better cars he'd driven through his inspection career. So he gave me my exemption sticker and I am now officially registered !!!!!
TLDR; Car overheated, still passed. Woo ! Officially registered !
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psmq7ygoc9.jpg
I did however encounter another overheat when I got home. I got out of the car and the overflow bottle was BOILING. AGGRESSIVELY. It was shaking and you could hear it ! It was HOT ! It started leaking out of the seals and dropped another 750ml ! Anybody got an idea ?
Thermostat was replaced bout 100kms ago, no visible splits in hoses, no milky residue in the oil. Going to replace it with coolant tomorrow and hope it helps us with troubleshooting (as there's only water in there now - which when taken out is BROWN)
das ittt
Did you bleed the system of air when you replaced the thermostat? You could have a big air lock (bubble) stopping the flow of coolant. The bleeder nipple is situated on top of the extension that the thermostat is at the end of, directly below the distributor. It faces back towards the firewall and is looks like a 12mm nut with a short "spout" where a stud would otherwise be. Unscrew it completely and clear the small passageway in it's seat with a piece of 1.5mm wire. Do the same to the bleeder, including the little hole in the side at it's tip. Water should come out of the hole it screws into. Screw the bleeder back in, but leave it loose a turn. Take off the radiator filler cap and fill it up. Start the engine and watch for water coming out of the bleeder, run the engine at about 1500 RPM until no more air is coming out (continuous water stream). Top up the radiator as you go if necessary. Shut the bleeder off while water is flowing out of it. Give your car some more road testing. If this doesn't cure the problem, I would say you've either got a blocked radiator or the water pipe across the back of the engine, or the pump isn't working. Take off the top hose at the radiator and run the engine to test the pump. Water should flow out very freely. Stop the engine before you empty all the water. If all OK and the problem continues, it's the radiator or that back pipe. Always use the correct anti-corrosive coolant once it's fixed after a flush out.
I did not bleed the air when I did the thermostat.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
Last night I bled the nipple and as soon as I cracked it I heard air expel out for about 5-10 seconds. You could hear it. I cleaned the nipple and where you put them nipple (as you said). The nipple was blocked. I then put the nipple back on and ran the car for a few seconds and had a constant stream of water come out. I tightened the nipple and that's it !
I hope this is the cause of the problem. Do you think I will need to do it again or once should be enough ?
I'll hold off from replacing the coolant for now until I can determine whether this has fixed my problem. It's interesting that this issue has never happened before. I drove the car to the inspection agency and did the exact same route twice before and had no symptoms. It ran like a champ... through peak hour too !
Thank you for your help :)
Bleeding needs to be done after any emptying of the coolant from the system. What I omitted to mention is that the engine needs to be brought up to sufficient temperature that the thermostat opens, so that coolant is actually able to flow and move any air-lock up to the bleeder's position. While it's closed, there's minimal coolant movement. To make this easier for myself (not absolutely necessary), I made up a little tool out of a 1/4" drive deep 12mm socket, which I drilled a 6mm hole in, attached to a 1/4" drive screwdriver handle, so I could keep this in place on the nipple while doing this.Quote:
Originally Posted by YOanthony
Don't replace the coolant with an anti-corrosive one until you've made sure that it's not overheating. See how it goes for the moment, you may have got the air-lock out with that release you heard. Seeing there was rusty water came out before though, it will still need a good flush through anyway. It's a bit of a drawn out process if the coolant's been allowed to become contaminated, requiring removal of the radiator and flushing it and the block independently to do a good job, but make sure the engine is cool when you do it. Never put cold coolant or water directly into a hot engine.
Did you install the thermostat the right way?
Did you use a Dayco one?
Thanks for the info. Luckily the system was warm (not hot - not cold).Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
I have not replaced anything yet. I will wait until I know the problem is fixed. :) I took it for a short drive up a hill behind my house today. It performed well and did not overheat. I will make longer drives here and there and see how it goes :)
I have not before - but why is it bad to put cold coolant or water into a hot engine ?
Thank you again for your help :)
Yeah a Dayco one. I installed it correctly :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
I got insured today and so I took the car out for a quick spurt up a hill behind my house. Handled well. I didn't push the engine. Looks great and I'm extremely obsessed with this car !! Here are a few pictures !
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psy6bxsieq.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...pstwrbwyl7.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...pst4i3tnpm.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psutnkq4yf.jpg
Putting coolant or cold water into the engine while its hot
will warp the head :(
Into an engine that is at boiling point will most likely crack either the head or the block because of the sudden local shrinkage of the metal contacted by the cold water.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Okay, thank you. I'll make a note not to do it.
Even with the air drained from the thermostat housing it has still had another meltdown. Not as serious as I caught it early. No water has boiled out but it has still become quite ferocious.
What should my next plan of action be ?
Pic for attention :3 I've posted this one specifically because both of the CD5s in this picture have been lowered 3-5 inches each yet the Aerodeck roof is almost in line with them.. I won't be dumping it, but imagine if it was... wow..
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psnka805v9.jpg
change head gasket or
K swap
Your car being lower than anything that came after is no surprise, even the small cars these days need a double decker bus license to drive (or a periscope to see above the dash).
Your cooling problems are unfortunate, but not to be unexpected at it's age. Can be hard to discover exactly why sometimes. We'll start with checking for a leaking/blown head gasket. Check the oil on your dipstick and under the oil filler cap for a milky white or brown frothy/sludgy consistency after running. Take all the plugs out and check for water droplets on the plugs and while they're out, crank the engine over to see if you can detect any water mist blowing out, wipe around the spark plug tubes with your finger to check for moisture. With the engine cool (NEVER remove the filler cap when hot), remove the cap and start the engine, fill to just below the filler neck and watch for bubbles in the water or water being blown out the filler in gushes as the thermostat opens. Get a compression test, or/and a cooling system leak down test.
Most usual place for blockages otherwise is the radiator, old hoses and that metal tube across the back of the engine. It's all a matter of a process of elimination. As an educated guess, I suspect your radiators stuffed.
Hahaha thank you mate. I'll give it a check when I get home. I'm 98% sure it's a negative on the milky residue. I checked multiple times following the first time it overheated.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
I'm keeping my fingers crossed it's a clogged radiator - in which case I'll need to track one down. I think the sedan/hatch should be the same.
I don't suppose any of you know what this little white cylinder is on the B18A ?
https://scontent-nrt.xx.fbcdn.net/hp...c5&oe=55D449C6
https://scontent-nrt.xx.fbcdn.net/hp...be&oe=55D0E71B
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.n...b119c024ea14ce
It started making this odd noise yesterday when I started the car. Like it has something in there spinning once I let off the accelerator. I haven't taken it off and I have no idea what it is... so I thought I'd come and consult the holy bible :P
Here's a video of it making noise.
https://www.facebook.com/GaijinAerod...5090233515253/
Please help :(
All I did yesterday was change the coolant and bleed the nipple on the thermostat housing.
Haven't a clue unfortunately. Being a carby engine, maybe something to do with the antipollution system, they're certainly complex with hoses going everywhere compared to the FI, and they were bad enough back then. Don't recall anything like that on the A20A carby engines. It has a vacuum hose (hose #31), what else is it connected to? Is there a diagram sticker on the underside of the bonnet? Probably need a translator to read it if there is, bound to be in Japanese.
I have a Japanese parts manual that I'm sure will break down that entire carby section. I'm honestly just thinking I'll take it off and see what's in there. You're probably right, it could be unimportant however I'll check it out and report back. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
A thought occurred, that noise you can hear when you let off of the accelerator could be a vacuum leak which would be at it's highest when coming down from revs. You may have bumped one of those little hoses with your spanner when doing the coolant bleed. Being old hoses, one may have split, particularly where pushed onto a fitting. Wish I could say, just rip them all off and block them up, but because there are so many sensors etc connected to them doing god knows what, that's not possible.
I would not disagree with this theory. I'll double check them when I start it next.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
I was getting an alarm installed today and took advantage of the time and put in this badge a friend from NZ sent me aaaaaaaaaaaages ago. Looks good. Might take it off again and try clear coating it. Definitely needs it but I'm apprehensive as to whether it'll work.
Attachment 28056
Attachment 28057
So here's my problem. :( Any ideas ?
Part number is: 17340-ph2-003
It's a sealed unit and listed as a Shot Air Valve Assembly.
Attachment 28062
Attachment 28063
Never found out what the white cylinder did or does. My dad suggest I put it back on the car and see if it works. It worked and the noise slowly disappeared. I was surprised. He said it was probably just the temperamental nature of carbys.
Anyway, I have also changed the atf. The at slips hard between 2-3 and 3-4.
I've been driving the car a bit too. Very long drive yesterday which was good. I took some photos around various places in Adelaide and I posted them below. Tell me what you think :) It got a lot of attention and I had lots of people staring and turning their heads. I had a few people even come up and chat to me about it while I was taking pictures. An amazing day!!
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psersycctx.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psbewbpau5.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psxdth4k5k.png
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http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps0slstcd2.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psmnnku9tx.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psnxefbllj.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psopysjvig.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psuhhby2zg.png
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psieiqqlzy.png
Some nice pics mate, good to see you enjoying it. So, the ATF change cured the slipping when changing? Unfortunately it's the only thing you can do to a Honda auto, no adjustments, don't think there's even a filter can be changed, never seen one or where you could get to one. Makes you wonder why an aftermarket in-line one in the cooling lines to the radiator has never been available. Sometimes the fluid change can do wonders.
Does your trans have the "lock-up" feature that the B20a versions had? The torque converter has an internal clutch, I believe, that engages above certain road speeds to provide a solid connection through the trans.
I was looking on this page at the gear ratio differences between the B18a and B20a automatics and the smaller engine was higher ratio/lower speed in 2, 3 and 4th stages, but with the same ratio diff and 1st.
http://www.hondaoldies.de/Korbmacher...d/tdacc3wg.htm
Thanks :)Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
The ATF change cured a minimal amount however it's still slipping when changing from 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. 1 to 2 is cured. I figure I have two options. Spend a gazillion dollars taking it to an automatics place where they can diagnose and perhaps fix the problem or I can just swap it to manual. We'll see how I go, I'm unsure as to whether any transmissions will be interchangeable tho.
The problem with these motors/boxes, is that they sit at a different angle to any of the others, (more forward lean than say a Teg B18a1),except maybe the A20a's that were the norm here. Don't know if the bell housings match or if their trannys would fit etc. Finding an A20a now would be almost as hard. About the only other option is a full transplant to something later, but that would also require an EFI update as well, custom made mounts, etc, etc.
I've still got this B20a auto, hasn't been driven for a good few years and I only got to drive it round my back yard so it never got out of 2nd. Was always impressed that there was no delay in shifting from drive to reverse from a stop. Had 150000K on it. Courier cost would be the worst part.
Is it the JDM b20a ? Those are quite rare aren't they ? Hmm... I wonder how hard it would be to upgrade. Obviously a full fuel delivery system swap would be in order - which I've heard sucks so many dicks. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
The car it came out of was most likely a Euro sedan luxury model because it didn't have the "Vigor" name across the back in a garnish between the tail lights (saw one of those in a wrecker). They were introduced there in '87, although the Vigor with B20a was in Japan since that model's inception. It was reputedly an '86 model (build date plate was missing unfortunately). From what I read on that German website, the Euro's came with fixed H/lights, but the JDM's had the pop-ups. This one had the pop-ups but as I said, no Vigor garnish. Maybe an early trial shipment. It never ceases to amaze me the plethora of models and short run models with every engine/trans/trim variation produced by Honda. Other makers have tried and it's sent them broke, but not Honda. Came across a JDM CRX EF7? with ZC DOHC automatic the other day, most of the auto's seen here are twin carb.
Upgrading from carby to EFI is not something to take on lightly. Fuel system has a return line, not sure if the pump can be fitted into the tank, then there's the wiring and ECU.
Hm. Odd. All euro Aerodecks have pop-ups. I have seen a few sedans with pop-ups too, but you're right - primarily fixed.Quote:
Originally Posted by hondapop
That's really odd. Maybe you're right. Who knows. Without papers I guess it's a complete mystery. Haha
Yes, you're right. I've even been given information by a chap in NZ who has both the B18A and B20A (they got both pop-up and fixed funnily enough. But how could they not given their import laws) and he's actually swapped the b20 head onto the b18a. he said it was remarkable difference but obviously because of the fuel delivery system change it really wasn't worth it. Especially since I was in Australia where we got the bottom run of everything :(
My friend has built an amazing carby late 80s ed. He has inspired me to build the b18a into a beast. hard work, but hopefully it'll all begin with the manual swap.