Thanks mate, do you notice any burning when in vtec or noticeable oil drop??Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
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Thanks mate, do you notice any burning when in vtec or noticeable oil drop??Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Negative on bothQuote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
Awesome!!
Guess today is time for some oil change haha
Shop around. Repco/autobarn/supercheap all sell it. Its always on speshy at one of them
Intelligent molecules dramatically reduces engine wear at start up
is she sounding great now alex?
My b18c7 burnt 1.7l of oil because of a bad pcv valve. Replaced it for $28 and haven't burnt a drop since
Anyway of testing the PCV valve??
They're so cheap it's better to just replace it. It's in an easy place to access on your B18C7.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
Just get a new one from honda??
Wherever man, go to honda or look it up onlineQuote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
Got mine from repco, just change the thing it costs fk all
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/13/5ury4uvu.jpg
Is this it here??
yeam8
thank
Thanks guys. It seems that the grommet is loose and not sealing 100%. It's still clicking, but I'll try replacing and see how we go from there.
I've replaced the PCV valve and it seems to still be smoking, but again. Only during vtec.
I'll try doing a compression test across the cylinders and see what I come up with.
If the compression test comes up good then your valve guides and seals are most likely worn out. Happens to all B series (and most engines in general) it's just a matter of when. Fixing involves removing the head and taking it to a machine shop/engine builder. Alternatively, use a thicker engine oil and it should reduce the smoke.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
Use best in marketQuote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
Yeah, I've increased the oil to 15w50 and not willing to go much higher.
Well then you know what the solution is.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
I have no idea what the solution is.
The 10w40 was burning a shit ton, the 15w50 is burning oil still.
The PCV valve has been replaced.
Compression I still haven't done, but will find out whether it is a bad seal when done.
sounds like you need a bit of work done..
Read this again..Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
Dyln plsQuote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
Oh... I thought you were responding to the oil change... My bad.
Mate, I wouldn't even worry with a compression test. Do a leak down test if you want to know for sure.
If you really worried. Take the block out and send her to machine shop ~$500 (depending on how far you wanna go whats really broken) add ~1k if you cannot remove and disassemble yourself.
When you get the motor back your vtec will go BWAHHHHHHHHH!
Best time to add cams or b20 if you ask me. I'd spend that extra 2k on a better valve train and rev to 9k on sweet cams. Add that extra offt to your BWAHHHHHHH!
Fair call. But just FYI if he was to take this advice and just go straight to rebuilding the block, but it turns out to be seals in the head that was causing the oil burn then he is back to square one again. Burning loads of oil and smoking.Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
The information we've been given seems to point toward top end problems. He says the burning/smoke happens at high RPM (vtec) which is when the engine creates significant enough vacuum to pull oil through the valve guides/seals if they are worn enough. It's extremely common on old B series.
I've had piston rings that weren't sealing properly before, it smokes a LOT and not just under high vacuum.
A compression test or a leakdown test will both give you an idea of how well the piston rings are sealing. Only one of them is more available and does not require an air compressor to perform. If we were testing for bent valves, that would be a different story.
So in theory (and in my experience building one of these), if a compression test or leakdown test yields acceptable results/figures then it can really only be one thing considering the PCV valve has been removed from the equation.
The compression test is showing an even compression across each of the pistons. Due to the tester I was using (rubber wedge to seal) which is designed for old Holden v8's (old mans 308 and my 253) with far lower compression, I couldn't get a solid answer. But the tests were within 50kpa of each other.
Is there any definitive way of testing leaking seals and guides? Or would I be best to just replace them rather than go through the hassle of testing??
On a lighter note though, The nutter has been getting a few touches of cosmetics.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/epa9aty2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/ja4u5edy.jpg
Just buy a $30 Stanley comp tester from Supercheap auto and use that. Comes with the right fitting for your engine.
If the compression figures aren't uneven or really low then you can place your bets on the valve guides and seals.
Sweet. Thanks mate.
I've noticed today that my oil pump has a busted mounting point, and the sump gasket appears to be leaking. While I'm replacing the gasket I want to replace the pump too. Is there anything that you guys would recommend. I've seen some "hi-flow" pumps around, is there really anything to be gained? Even if the car were tracked??
I'm not sure what you mean by a "busted mounting point".
The oil pump bolts flush to the front side of the block. Unless you mean it's leaking somewhere?
I have never seen or heard of a "high flow oil pump" for B series but I have seen some better gears for the OEM pump.
Don't bother with modding the oil pump, honestly. The stock ITR pump creates more than enough oil pressure for street/track/anywhere unless you're trying to build an 11,000RPM engine lol.
Best thing to do would be to replace the pump with a brand new one and also do a timing belt job while you're at it, considering the belt has to come off to replace the pump anyway..
HahhahanahahahahahahahahQuote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
I'll try taking a picture for it. By front side do you mean under the cam gears??
Where the bolt goes through, the casing has cracked and fractured.
From the sounds of things, dude you have 101 problems that the interwebs cant fix.
Stop reading things on the net. Trial and error will cost you.
Take her to a proper shop and tell them whats happening and to have a sticky beak.
Before its too late. Get ready to spend ~1k on a major service from the sounds of things.
I just have a good feeling, your playing "Catch up services" due to previous owners abuse and lack of caring.
You have a car that's used. Sure you love her, but how far are you willing to go?
Shes already been trashed, use her, have your fun and move on.
Not too mention, your reving to 9k on cold start.
Holy fuk you actuallt made a post that wasnt total bullshitQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
1st post when Im not high. Chopping up 8 tickets to conney land as i Type.Quote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
Hahahaha
Nice1
If I plan to go turbo with it, I would rather have an engine that is 100% and reliable. Even if that means doing a full rebuild, bore and hone.
If I don't fix it, a future owner will be left with the issue, or the engine will just be scrapped, and I personally don't want to see another honda off the road anymore than you do, especially if it occurs while I'm driving it.
I'll do some more research and see what there is that I can find out. Worse comes to worse, I'll replace the guide seals and work from there.
Again mate, trial and error is gonna hurt ur wallet. Do it once, do it right.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
Stop reading all the bullsh#t on the net. Cos there are people like me who will steer you in the wrong direction just for kicks. (there are people much worse then me on this forum)
I'm gonna send it to a shop while I'm up north qld. Get him to have a look over it all and give it a good inspection. Pick up anything that needs repairs and sort out the smoking.
I am still tempted to rebuild the engine though, mainly for reliability and to remove any gremlins that the horrid previous owners left.
I hate playing catch up servicingQuote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
It seems as though when you try to fix the car, something else is breaks, its a freakin domino affect i tell ya
I guess its what happens when you have a 20 year old car that hasn't been serviced regulrly
And abused for all it's life.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
That's what has been happening. It's a never ending chain reaction. Once you're done you pretty much have a new car again.
I don't know how someone can just treat something so awfully, when it has cost so much to purchase. It's like "oh yeah, it's only 10g, it's like pocket money".
I would buy an old car and run it into the groundQuote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
What's the harm in that
Cheaper than fixing it up
Because I can't exactly say a type r is a cheap car.... Haha
Something I believe a lot of people need to come to terms with is that cars are machines, machines are comprised of parts, parts always reach a breaking point.
In short, machines break and that is just a characteristic you need to accept. It's not breaking because you have bad luck, and it probably is not because the previous owner forgot to do a few oil changes.. it's an old car with old parts.
Even if you rebuild the whole engine that does not by any means guarantee that nothing will break.
It's part of owning a car, things break, you fix them when they do.
I understand that things break. But my 98 d series had absolute no issues at all. No smoke, no knocking. Ran perfect.
Compared to the 2000 type r engine, which may I add is a far more expensive item, has had nothing but issues.
With proper maintenance and care, a machine will last a life time. Parts will give out over time, but the issue I have had is that the previous owners haven't cared to change them as they have broken. Just ignored it with the mentality of, it's not worth fixing, which is why we end up in this situation.
A 1970 Holden v8 built by Australia, has outlasted my japenese built 2000 4 cylinder. Which, by all means, should definitely be the other way around.
Just because a B18CR is more expensive than a D series doesn't make it more reliable. You're forgetting that it's much more highly strained than a low compression economy engine.
Also forgetting to factor in that the B18CR probably gets driven a lot harder (by you and the previous owner) than the economy based D series.
As I already told you, B series are notorious for worn valve guides with age. It is not surprising that it's smoking with age.
Take it from a guy who has actually rebuilt his B18 twice (so you know I'm not some forum troll spouting shit), rebuilding does not change the fact that regardless of how often you change the oil etc stuff is going to break. If you bolt on a turbo to the engine it will break things even more often.
If you want to rebuild, go ahead, it's a fun thing to do. If you want a turbo, go ahead. But just don't expect the problems to come to a halt because of it.
On a side note I have two questions simply out of curiousity:
1 - Why did you buy the engine if you know it's been very poorly maintained?
2 - What parts were "left broken" by the previous owner of the engine?
http://m.quickmeme.com/img/8d/8db68a...71567842d4.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Dyln.bxtr
9000rpm cold shifts
nuff said
So, unfortunately due to finances I haven't had a chance to address this issue yet. I am planning to replace the valve stem seals, should I just do the guides at the same time in case??
K20a.