Synthetic Oil for Euro

sorry for bringing up this old thread, i just did my 20k service using mobil 1 10w-30, i noticed my mechanic pour in ALL 5 lt of it into the engine, sounds "weird" as i read somewhere accord euro only take 4.2 - 4.3lt, some even claim they only use 3.5 lt after a long drain.

while mine was only drain for like 10 minutes, and my mechanic say the oil pan he used to collect the oil from the engine has 5lt in it so he put the whole 5lt new oil back to the engine?

checking dipstick it shows just right below max line.

btw what is all those high vtec you guys talking about, i only have my car for like 3 weeks and never rev it over 4k does the high vtec you guys mention kick in like a turbo or some sort of things like that? how do i make it happen? thanks

petsfact - thanks for posting your question here - bringing back old threads is a good thing! Much better than having the same or similar question asked in many threads. That way the really good threads become a repository of information when people search - like a database.

Re oil - if your oil is on max there is nothing wrong.

As for your question about vtec - you need to rev the car beyond 6000rpm before the hicam kicks in. It is very smooth - nothing like a turbo. Give it a go - just make sure you clutch in before 7300rpm.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petsfact

sorry for bringing up this old thread, i just did my 20k service using mobil 1 10w-30, i noticed my mechanic pour in ALL 5 lt of it into the engine, sounds "weird" as i read somewhere accord euro only take 4.2 - 4.3lt, some even claim they only use 3.5 lt after a long drain.

while mine was only drain for like 10 minutes, and my mechanic say the oil pan he used to collect the oil from the engine has 5lt in it so he put the whole 5lt new oil back to the engine?

checking dipstick it shows just right below max line.

btw what is all those high vtec you guys talking about, i only have my car for like 3 weeks and never rev it over 4k does the high vtec you guys mention kick in like a turbo or some sort of things like that? how do i make it happen? thanks

---

According to your mechanics excuse - the next time he drains it out its going to be 5L again and so he'll just put in another 5L! :eek:

Problably suggest re-checking the oil level again especially during the morning before you start the car - when all the oil is at one plce. If it is over-the-line you got to let some of it out again, otherwise you'll create too much oil pressure in the engine. If its still under the line then its fine!


The High Vtec on the Euro kicks in around 6000rpm. At around 5500-6000rpm there is a power dip, but once it goes over 6000rpm there is a slight kick in the back kind of like a turbo except it doesn't last as long.

Most Turbo equipped cars on the market like the Golf GTi/Audi A3 or Astra Turbo are in fact now smoother than the Euro's VTEC kick in. :D

Only 4000rpm :eek: Give the car a kick up to 7200rpm and you'll notice an aggressive rush at 6000rpm. Its fine to do it occasionally :)


If the oil filter was changed, then the engine would need a bit more oil. But 5L seems a bit too much. Maybe there was some left in the container?

by the way, after driving with this mobil 1 10w-30 for few days i realized there is more tapping noise from the engine?

but it seems to go away after 10 minutes highway drive?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petsfact

by the way, after driving with this mobil 1 10w-30 for few days i realized there is more tapping noise from the engine?

but it seems to go away after 10 minutes highway drive?

---

Check your oil level after leaving overnight. Is it still between minimum and maximum? The injectors on the Euro is noisy. It's also noisier than the K24A1 in the CRV.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petsfact

by the way, after driving with this mobil 1 10w-30 for few days i realized there is more tapping noise from the engine?

but it seems to go away after 10 minutes highway drive?

---

Regarding the noises - I think that is a character of Mobil 1 10W-30 on a lot of cars. Have had that experience. If you use that on the LS1 Commodores they also like to consume a lot of oil as well for some unknown reason.

I think I'll give ELF a try next time in the Euro. :o

The endless brand synthetic oil I'm currently using is 10w-40 and I've noticed a similar thing at lower operating temperatures. Thicker oils work best at slightly higher temperatures and offer better protection. I drive my car pretty hard and plan on tracking so i thought the extra protection may be worth it.

Anyone here tried thicker oil before, i.e 15W for their Euros?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Omotesando

Regarding the noises - I think that is a character of Mobil 1 10W-30 on a lot of cars.
I think I'll give ELF a try next time in the Euro. :o

---

I agree with you here, My IS200 became noticably louder with Mobil (forget the grade, the gold bottle).

I advise against ELF. I currently have ELF 10-50 in my euro, and let me say, the car sounds awful. Everyone has commented on the noise @ idle from outside the car.
I will be going back to Motul/Castrol.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by exISeuro

I agree with you here, My IS200 became noticably louder with Mobil (forget the grade, the gold bottle).

I advise against ELF. I currently have ELF 10-50 in my euro, and let me say, the car sounds awful. Everyone has commented on the noise @ idle from outside the car.
I will be going back to Motul/Castrol.

---

my ES civic drinks mobil 1 Gold.. 1ltr every 2000+km

not engine problem, 'cos after changing to other oil, problem solved.

Yep. Mobil 1 likes to be consumed on some engines for some unknown reason. I didn't had that problem, but I had the tapping noise using 10W-30. Gone with 0W-40 however.

As with exISeuro, I think u shouldn't be using ELF 10W-50 in your euro!

That is way too thick at normal operating temperatures. Don't blame the oil in this instance. Its the wrong grade altogether.

U should be using the 10W-30 or 5W-30 type.

ELF has really good reputation and lab reports (with all oils nearly same viscosity grade) shows it works well. Actually so does Mobil 1 but it just has some noise issues...

Interesting. I just went from 0w-40 to 10w-30 as well and I observed the same thing. Louder engine noise (tapping) with the 10w-30. But it is smoother now with 10w-30.

exISeuro:
Most important with engine oils is to use the correct 10w-30 viscosity or 1 step up (1 step down should work too). 2 steps with the ELF 10w-50 is too much in my opinion. An oil that is too thick can't provide a thick enough layer between the piston rings and wall.

i guess 10w 40 would be ok though?

Yeah its only 10 difference, it should be fine.

elf fully synthetic is good ?

[QUOTE=aaronng]Interesting. I just went from 0w-40 to 10w-30 as well and I observed the same thing. Louder engine noise (tapping) with the 10w-30. But it is smoother now with 10w-30.
QUOTE]


Are u still using Castrol or changed to another brand in the 10W-30 grade?
Why or how do u describe (?? :) ) the 10W-30 being smoother than 0W-40 in the Euro Accord? I am about to try 0W-40 so some feedback would be good!


With the Mobil 1 10W-30 and tapping noise problem, I'm not sure if its because it doesn't produce enough of a protective film or something? But my idea shouldn't make sense either, because Mobil 1 is suppose to be very protective for moving parts and oil analysis shows this to be the case too. So really have no idea. But in certain cars like I said, the Mobil oil gets CONSUMED easily..



As for other person - why do u insist on using 10W-40 (even from 10W-50)? Honda's are suppose to have many internal engine parts and also having revvy engines, and as such u should use the recommended oil range. In fact, it is probably safer to go 'thinner at normal operating temperature oils' such as 5W-30 or 0W-40 as it protects the engine parts when its revving/moving fast. Also gets more power.

People always recommend Honda's not to use too thick an oil. It makes sense scientifically to me (although I haven't verified its truth). BUT.... without having a way to verify either way, the oil grade that the manufacturer recommends and the dealer uses is probably the best - 10W-30. Even if you go on the track... Just change it afterwards.:)

i was recommended to go to the 10w40 grade for track use and thought I'd give it a go for the added protection.

Next time round I think I'll go with something a bit thinner.

as far as i know, after consulting few car maniac friends, mobil 1 seems to give some tapping noise but if go with the cheaper option like castrol or even some motul should solve the problem....

Still mobil 1 recognized as high quality engine oil in term of protection. I think i will just stick with it for 10k (cost 80 bucks!)

80 bucks? :eek: Ive seen it like $15 cheaper at K-Mart :thumbsup:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Omotesando

Are u still using Castrol or changed to another brand in the 10W-30 grade?
Why or how do u describe (?? :) ) the 10W-30 being smoother than 0W-40 in the Euro Accord? I am about to try 0W-40 so some feedback would be good!

---

I'm still using Castrol Formula R. With the 0w-40, it was nice. I previously had Magnatec 10w-40 in it and when I switched to Formula R, it was a noticeable change. Engine was quieter too (of course, not as quiet as a CRV).

Then, I recently had my 1.5 year service and put in 5w-30 instead. The engine sounds louder now. The sound is coming from either the head or the injector area. But it is louder. It is smoother than 0w-40. The engine also revs harder at 5000-7000rpm.

I had used the 0w-40 for the track. And wow, after the track day, my oil level was still the same, and the colour was the same too, dark brown which turns to a dark golden colour as the oil layer thins out on the dip stick.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Omotesando

With the Mobil 1 10W-30 and tapping noise problem, I'm not sure if its because it doesn't produce enough of a protective film or something? But my idea shouldn't make sense either, because Mobil 1 is suppose to be very protective for moving parts and oil analysis shows this to be the case too. So really have no idea. But in certain cars like I said, the Mobil oil gets CONSUMED easily..

---

I'll keep this thread updated with my 5w-30 oil consumption. I think though that cars with larger gaps between the piston ring and cylinder require a thicker oil. For example, WRX uses 50 or 60 oil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petsfact

as far as i know, after consulting few car maniac friends, mobil 1 seems to give some tapping noise but if go with the cheaper option like castrol or even some motul should solve the problem....

Still mobil 1 recognized as high quality engine oil in term of protection. I think i will just stick with it for 10k (cost 80 bucks!)

---

The oil brand doesn't matter as much as the viscosity of the oil. If you change your oil every 6 months, then even dino oil is good enough.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Chris_F

i was recommended to go to the 10w40 grade for track use and thought I'd give it a go for the added protection.

Next time round I think I'll go with something a bit thinner.

---

Sorry I didn't know u posted that, I got confused while skip-reading! I thought it was from the person who posted about 10W-50 for some reason whilst reading up other things at same time. U can disregard end part of my previous post!

Anyway, if you go on track - 10W-40 is probably recommended by people as it has better, thicker protection film. Though without Oil Pressure and Oil Temp measurement, also depending on how hard u drive on the track, etc, its hard to say whether 10W-30 or 10W-40 is better, even if ppl commonly suggest thicker viscosity on the track? I mean oil is for lubrication. As long as no metals are touching then the thinnest, more lubed alternative should be best. That's why thinner oil has better fuel economy and more power, less oil pressure. What I'm worried about is, on a Honda engine whether the thicker oil can run around to the smaller parts fast enough to protect them too, at high RPM?

If I go on track - I'll take away the number plate to make sure there is enough cooling to the radiator.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Omotesando

Sorry I didn't know u posted that, I got confused while skip-reading! I thought it was from the person who posted about 10W-50 for some reason whilst reading up other things at same time. U can disregard end part of my previous post!

Anyway, if you go on track - 10W-40 is probably recommended by people as it has better, thicker protection film. Though without Oil Pressure and Oil Temp measurement, also depending on how hard u drive on the track, etc, its hard to say whether 10W-30 or 10W-40 is better, even if ppl commonly suggest thicker viscosity on the track? I mean oil is for lubrication. As long as no metals are touching then the thinnest, more lubed alternative should be best. That's why thinner oil has better fuel economy and more power, less oil pressure. What I'm worried about is, on a Honda engine whether the thicker oil can run around to the smaller parts fast enough to protect them too, at high RPM?

If I go on track - I'll take away the number plate to make sure there is enough cooling to the radiator.

---

ok no worries :p

I've heard from people running K-series engines on the track (another accord euro and a dc5r) and they never had any problems running this thicker grade of oil. If anything it'd be more suitable for summer use. It's interesting to note that honda recommends 5w30 for Australia which is the grade it also reccomends in countries with a much colder climate. If your out on the track or driving hard on a hot day a slightly thicker oil might be worth it? But like you said, we need to see some data before we know the best grade to run.

Reviving an old thread but what's the 'colour' of brand new Mobil 1 gold-bottle 10-30W?

I just want to make sure the dealer didn't switch my bottle for Honda FEO or Shell Helix so if you know the colour of that'll be great. I know my old Motul was a slightly nice light shade of orange when new.

My 10k service is up soon... now deciding which oil to get.... I think synthetic 10-30W should do...

Read the first few page, then decided to jump to the last few page, but still not decided yet.... any recommendation?

Plan to change oil every 10k and roughly every 6-7 months time.

I have changed over to Castrol Edge Sport 5w-30. I have detected a slight reduction in fuel consumption on the same route and distance, highway cruising at 116kmh. I am now getting down to 7.19L/100 as opposed to 7.9 L/100 when I was using Penrite Sin a thicker oil.
I think we would have to keep our cars for at least 300,000kms to notice any difference between a good 10/30 mineral oil as opposed to a good synthetic. This is just my perception based on our Peugeot which has done 283,000kms on synthetic oil and is showing less wear problems than with other Peugeot owners of the same model and vintage using a good mineral oil.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tron07

My 10k service is up soon... now deciding which oil to get.... I think synthetic 10-30W should do...

Read the first few page, then decided to jump to the last few page, but still not decided yet.... any recommendation?

Plan to change oil every 10k and roughly every 6-7 months time.

---

For cheap, not many oils beat Castrol Edge 5w-30 ($50). Good if you are changing every 6 months. If you are feeling rich, you can go for the Edge 0w-40 or the Motul 8100 10w-40 (both around $65-70)

Motul 8100 or Mobil-1 Gold 10-30W

I've used both. Personally prefer the Mobil 1.

Yeah i use Castrol edge 5w30(i get it for $44)i change it every 5k.i do it myself between 10k services.

I used to use Motul Chrono 300V, very good oil! But expensive :D

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by euro77

I used to use Motul Chrono 300V, very good oil! But expensive :D

---

Wahhh overkill for a street-driven Euro.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Wahhh overkill for a street-driven Euro.

---

is that the best or something?? how much are those for a bottle?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

is that the best or something?? how much are those for a bottle?

---

Yeah, it's pretty much the best for a street engine. It's an ester-based oil, a step above the full synthetic of Mobil1, Castrol Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100 and Shell Helix Ultra. it's $95-100 for 4L. You need 4.5L

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Yeah, it's pretty much the best for a street engine. It's an ester-based oil, a step above the full synthetic of Mobil1, Castrol Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100 and Shell Helix Ultra. it's $95-100 for 4L. You need 4.5L

---

so 2 bottles to drain and stuff? sweet :p but 2 bottles, bit pricey for just engine oil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

so 2 bottles to drain and stuff? sweet :p but 2 bottles, bit pricey for just engine oil

---

At that price you'd only use that oil for a turbo engined car and even then you'd leave it in for 10k.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BusterSonic12

so 2 bottles to drain and stuff? sweet :p but 2 bottles, bit pricey for just engine oil

---

It's always better to change your oil often than to use an expensive oil and change after a longer interval. So unless your engine has very high compression and you're running at close to 10,000rpm, you're better off getting Castrol Edge 5w-30 for $45 and changing twice as often.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Wahhh overkill for a street-driven Euro.

---

Correction, it's been driven on track :P

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by euro77

Correction, it's been driven on track :P

---

Street driven means normal car laa

A track Euro/TSX looks like this:

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/3...8000011bu8.jpg

http://img370.imageshack.us/img370/9597/imoto19qi.jpg

Still, you would want that extra peace of mind if you track your car. You know, the oil goes really black just after one track day.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by euro77

Still, you would want that extra peace of mind if you track your car. You know, the oil goes really black just after one track day.

---

You probably only notice it because you changed the oil again after going to the track?:D It kind of goes dark pretty easily even if driven normally. Used to worry me that only after one day of driving its darkened (even before the oil's fully run in) but now I think its normal.

Anyway for the price of Motul Chrono 300V, I think I might consider Redline Oils. Not sure which is better. I've used both, much of the same really!

Its overkill. Any synthetic oils no matter how good the base is, seems to start running a bit rougher after around 7000-8000kms for me. Like AARONNG said I'll rather change it more often but using a slightly cheaper one! Even if its mineral oil!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by euro77

Still, you would want that extra peace of mind if you track your car. You know, the oil goes really black just after one track day.

---

You're meant to make sure your oil is adequate before track day and then change again after track day. Black oil is good. It means your oil is working to clean the carbon deposits after running hard at full throttle, which is usually rich on a stock car.

In my opinion, good oils don't let you run your oil for longer but let you run your oil under heavier stress. So 300V is good in that it can withstand a lot more stress than a hydrocracked synthetic like Castrol Edge 5w-30. But I wouldn't increase the oil change intervals just because I was using 300V.

At least Euro77 knew that his engine oil was doing its job during his track day. :thumbsup:

From the Castrol & Shell website, the recomended oil for Accord 2.4 2003 onwards is

Quote:

---

Castrol's best oil for your vehicle EDGE 0W-30 (v)
Alternative recommendation MAGNATEC 10W-40 A3/B3 (v)


SHELL HELIX PLUS LB 10W-30 or SHELL HELIX PLUS ECO 10

---

Personally I think for the average Euro owner "NOT" tracking their car the Castrol Edge Sport 5w 30 will give ample protection especially in hi temp situations. My Euro generally runs in ideal conditions - modest temps, no traffic congestion, open highways and the revs usually around 2.500 to 3000. If I was looking for a used car I would always check out a country car first, they get a much easier life than their city cousins.

What about the normal honda oils from the SC???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tron07

What about the normal honda oils from the SC???

---

...SC?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tron07

From the Castrol & Shell website, the recomended oil for Accord 2.4 2003 onwards is

---

Castrol don't have a 0W30 do they.I thought they only have 5W30 or 0W40(Edge)????

SC = service center...

The site is either a US or UK site.... so they could have a 0-30

Normal FEO oil is semi-synthetic and should be changed every 5000km.

Cost of using dino or 5000km oil change intervals over a year.
$40 x 2 (oil) + cost of intermediate oil change and 'minor service' - $100.

Cost of using fully synthetic oil (e.g. Mobil 1 Gold) $80 which is the same as two bottles of cheaper oil. And you don't have to pay for a 5000km oil change as the interval becomes the routine 10000km / 6 month service.

That's why I don't use Shell Helix etc...

I see no problems with changing at 10000km rather than more frequently if you're using a good fully synthetic or better yet - ester oil. Motul 300V is a bit excessive unless you're a doing track work but there are plenty of cheaper and really good oils around.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tron07

SC = service center...

The site is either a US or UK site.... so they could have a 0-30

---

You mean the dealer or those places like Ultratune/Autobarn?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tanalasta

Normal FEO oil is semi-synthetic and should be changed every 5000km.

---

FEO is mineral oil. And it can last 10,000km if you don't fang hard every day (i.e. drive like the other 90% of the population :)).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

You mean the dealer or those places like Ultratune/Autobarn?

---

SC = honda service center or honda dealer.....

Site mention is eiterh Shell or Castrol web site, not Ultratune/autobarn.... you can choose the make and model of the car and it will show you the recommended oils and coolant.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tron07

SC = honda service center or honda dealer.....

Site mention is eiterh Shell or Castrol web site, not Ultratune/autobarn.... you can choose the make and model of the car and it will show you the recommended oils and coolant.

---

Honda dealer will use what they usually use. Most dealers buy Castrol Magnatec in drums and use that in the Hondas.

What's the best trans MT oil other than honda one ? I heard some of the trans oils can actually damage the syncros.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ALN

What's the best trans MT oil other than honda one ? I heard some of the trans oils can actually damage the syncros.

---

Best is Honda MTF-III, only found in Japan. USA gets MTF-II, I'm not sure what we get as the AUDM bottle justs says Manual Transmission Fluid.

i thought someone is going to update us his use of 5w-30....... :P

Honda used 10w30 before there was Honda MTF if thats what you're talking about?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

I'll keep this thread updated with my 5w-30 oil consumption. I think though that cars with larger gaps between the piston ring and cylinder require a thicker oil. For example, WRX uses 50 or 60 oil

---

:wave:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petsfact

:wave:

---

LOL, it's been a while yeah? Well, from the day I put in Castrol Edge 5w-30 to the end of 6 months where I switched over to 8100 5w-40, there was no change in the oil level. :)

Oil consumption of the Euro depends more on how you take care of your car when it comes to the regular viscosities of 0w-30 to 10w-40. My car gets 30 seconds of idle time when started in the morning and I drive it to a max of 3000rpm with very little throttle until twice the time required for the coolant temperature to reache 80ºC.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Drew

Honda used 10w30 before there was Honda MTF if thats what you're talking about?

---

It's been a long long while since 10w-30 was used as MTF here.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

It's been a long long while since 10w-30 was used as MTF here.

---

so do you find castrol or motul 8100 better?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petsfact

so do you find castrol or motul 8100 better?

---

Same on the Euro.
But on the Astra, the Motul is quieter.

What's the best engine oil "bang for your buck" wise?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by take_no_prisoners

What's the best engine oil "bang for your buck" wise?

---

Castrol Edge 5W30.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tony1234

Castrol Edge 5W30.

---

If I bring some with me to my next service, how much (volume wise) should I be looking at bringing?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by take_no_prisoners

If I bring some with me to my next service, how much (volume wise) should I be looking at bringing?

---

Bring a 5L bottle, but they will use 4.2L. So you can ask them for the excess to be returned to you for topping up.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Bring a 5L bottle, but they will use 4.2L. So you can ask them for the excess to be returned to you for topping up.

---

Mine seems to take approx.4.7ltrs inc.filter replacement.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tony1234

Mine seems to take approx.4.7ltrs inc.filter replacement.

---

Maybe your dealer leaves the car for a longer time to allow more oil to drain out.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by aaronng

Maybe your dealer leaves the car for a longer time to allow more oil to drain out.

---

Maybe.Oil level on dipstick 1 day after 20k service was approx.5mm over full mark.Is this too much?did they overfill?:confused:

mine is 1.5cm above full mark! i win!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by petsfact

mine is 1.5cm above full mark! i win!

---

This is a competition that i DON'T want to win.1.5 cm over.That's too much.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by tony1234

Maybe.Oil level on dipstick 1 day after 20k service was approx.5mm over full mark.Is this too much?did they overfill?:confused:

---

You can go up to about 10mm. I prefer to have 5mm over the max because it helps keep the oil pickup supplied with oil when cornering hard. I suspect that the engine can take about 5L without reaching the splash shield.

hrmm... i was given amsoil signature series 0w-30 is this too thin for the euro? i jst changed the oil today... and after starting/turning off... sorta noticed a dark line running in the middle of the camshaft lobe (looked thru the oil filler hole) ... is it scored? its a 2006 with 73000kms

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by andyn

hrmm... i was given amsoil signature series 0w-30 is this too thin for the euro? i jst changed the oil today... and after starting/turning off... sorta noticed a dark line running in the middle of the camshaft lobe (looked thru the oil filler hole) ... is it scored? its a 2006 with 73000kms

---

0w-30 is like.... perfect... I always wanted to get 0w-30 for my euro but can't justify the price, it's same as 5w-30 but a better flowing at cold, normally people run 5w30 in the euro here, in the USA Acura/Honda dealers are know to use 5w-20, which is even thinner.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by andyn

hrmm... i was given amsoil signature series 0w-30 is this too thin for the euro? i jst changed the oil today... and after starting/turning off... sorta noticed a dark line running in the middle of the camshaft lobe (looked thru the oil filler hole) ... is it scored? its a 2006 with 73000kms

---

0w-30 is fine. It has the same viscosity as 5w-30 as mentioned by Fredoops.

ahk ty ty guys =D

about 2 weeks ago i went to the dealer to buy an oil filter. I saw they stocked full synthetic oil i think its 5-35.

Instantly i found it amazing im not sure what the difference is but it just felt more responsive.

The cost was 75 for oil filter and 5l of the oil however did get trade discount. Should give it a shot.

Honda dealers just use semi-synthetic

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by marquee

about 2 weeks ago i went to the dealer to buy an oil filter. I saw they stocked full synthetic oil i think its 5-35.

Instantly i found it amazing im not sure what the difference is but it just felt more responsive.

The cost was 75 for oil filter and 5l of the oil however did get trade discount. Should give it a shot.

Honda dealers just use semi-synthetic

---

You've brought "Honda feo ultra", it's made by caltex, it's discussed in detail in the news sub forum. The general consensus is that it's not cheap for what you get. Having said that, considering the crap most Honda dealers use, any full syn oil will feel amazing in comparison.

From what i got out of just reading (cheers for pointing me in the right direction) is that it is manufactured by caltex with hondas specs. Also after reading another thread on it the general view is if you pik it up cheap for about 55 its worth it which is what i picked it up for.

And im happy with it so ill be buying it again but wont be buying the stupid oil filter from there 15 for an oil filter can go stick it