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ok so she starts. how? I dont know for sure.
I turned the dizzy all the way in one direction and it wouldn't 'kick' when cranking.
I turned it all the way in the other direction and it would kick everytime.
Then I bolted up my exhaust, did a few things here and there such as inserts the axles etc..and we thought we would try and give her another go, see if she starts.
Now it starts almost everytime we try but with severe cranking required.
It starts, runs for awhile with my foot on the throttle and then stalls, even with my foot on full throttle.
It wont start if i dont have my foot on the throttle.
What could this be?
Timing of some sort?
ECU problems?
What could this be?
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Check all timing... belt and dist. You're getting closer.
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would it be timing related rather than ecu related?
i am getting a solid cel
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Timing can throw a light. Unless you have a diag. scanner I would recheck the timing. Then have someone check the light. Should blink as you turn the car on. Count how many times it flashes then check it with the code sheet. I'll find that and post it later or tell me what you come up with and I'll check.
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Get ready with a multimeter man, put the earth probe onto a good, clean earth.
IO = Ignition in ON position
All these are done with the car not started.
A1,2,3&5: IO = 11~14V
A4: IO = 0V
A7&8: IO = 0V~1V briefly when turned to ON position, then 11V~14V
A9: IO = 11~14V
A13: IO = 0~1V if CEL is ON, 11-14V if CEL is OFF
A16: Alternator, no reading given
A21/22: IO = 10V
A23/24: IO = 0V
A25/B1: IO = 11-14V
A26/B2: IO = 0V
B7: IO = 11~14V
B8: IO = 0~1V(steering wheel straight ahead)
B9: IO = 0V
D1: IO = 11~14V
D9: IO = 1.5V
D11: IO = 0.5V with throttle closed, 4.5V with throttle open
D13: IO = 3.4V with engine cold, 0.5V with engine warm
D15: IO = 3.5V at 15 degree ambient temp
D17: IO = 3V
D19: IO = 5V
D20: IO = 5V
D21: IO = 0V
D22: IO = 0V
Hope that helps
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my radiator fan isn't running - should i be alarmed about this at all?
the car starts and runs without stalling - as far as i can see..
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also - the car wont run when i close the throttle.
this obviously isn't normal is it?
what could that be due to?
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i havent read all the way thru but TPS issue ? throttle body is gunk-free too?
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I have to ask
is your distributor 100% from your engine. not one similar or one from a USDM blah blah blah
I think you should take all your dizzy bolts out and try turning it a little bit further in the direction of where it kicked
with a solid cel, id say you have a wiring problem, not related so much to sensor but to main system wiring to ecu.
when you say you get a solid cel, you mean your getting the engine check light stay always on when you bridge D4 on the ECU to ground. not just with it not grounded
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I was going to say (before john), isn't the Dizzy not from the original motor? just another D series one?
John would that be a problem? or are all the d series ones compatble?
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TPS is damaged slightly - would that be the issue that's causing it to stall when i close the throttle?
it will run fine if the throttle is open.
dizzy is from d15b.
i had to adjust it for it to finally start
TB has been cleaned thoroughly.
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what would cause it to stall when throttle is closed?
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if you know your tps is damages you shouls change it
as in the last page, do the voltage test.
replace the TPS.
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For radiator fan, what is A12 and A15 connected to??
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i will check for you
what should it be connected to?
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A12 is for your radiator fan
A15 is A/C clutch relay
If they are not connected to anything, let me know and I can let you know what needs to go where.
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A15 is not connected yet
A12 there is no wire there...wtf?
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B7 B10 and D7 are also unconnected wires.
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D7 goes to the 3 pin DLC connector
B10 must go to you VSS
dont worry about D7, its only for Auto
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any idea why my A12 is non-existant?
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because the D15 ECU (P06 ) does not controll the AC
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i have a p28 ecu with a d16y1 ( something d-series) ecu plug
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so what was your loom from
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interior loom was from a d-series engine
not 100% sure which engine
think it was d16y1 or d16a8
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thats probably why A 12 is not connected
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ok so will the radiator fan run?
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bridge out the thermo switch and find out.
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i'm sorry i dont understand what u mean by that...
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ok so i unplug it and put a paperclip in each end of the plug to start the fan?
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A12 is the radiator fan relay on the EG VTi wiring diagram, it is able to short the regular temp switch to engage the radiator fan when the A/C is on or if the switch fails to open(safety measue in case switch dies)
The P08 ECU(D15B VTEC) does control A/C control, my ECU works perfectly controlling A/C idle up, A/C fan and pressure switch. The P28 VTi ECU also controls A/C so A15 is the A/C clutch relay.
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just an update on whats happening
the motor is running
it wont run with butterfly on TB closed so I have it open just to run the engine in atm.
What could be causing this?
The fact that the throttle needs to be open in order for the car to idle...??
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Have you checked those voltages I listed. They will diagnose the problem much better. I suspect the TPS has wrong voltages but I need to confirm this.
Once I know which voltages are different, it will be easy to work out what is wrong
