so is it all really worth it just to make your car that little bit quieter?? if you ask me i like to hear my car work abit!
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so is it all really worth it just to make your car that little bit quieter?? if you ask me i like to hear my car work abit!
that absolutely depends on the person. provided that all 06 civic sports have the same noise level out of the factory, there are numerous people on these forums alone that are quite satisfied with the stock noise levels already. then there are people who aren't satisfied with the noise levels, and then there are the obsessives like me who stop at little to reduce noise levels as much as possible :wave:Quote:
Originally Posted by car_nut
at this point the car can still be heard working, but unlike before the operating noises (mainly road noise and traffic noise) are much easier to ignore, and as a result more of the music i'm playing can be heard.
so to answer your question: for me, bloody absolutely, wrt both time and money :)
I find turning the stereo up a notch has the same effect as your weeks of work and $$, but hey, you gotta have a hobby! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by chylld
turning up the stereo does 'drown out' the road noise to an extent, but it doesn't actually do anything about the noise floor. for me the reduction in road noise was the first priority, better SQ second.Quote:
Originally Posted by Scratch2k
also, for every 3db you drop the road noise level, you double your effective amplifier power (apparently hehe) so i'm working toward the same goal but using an obviously more expensive and tedious approach :)
OK today was hopefully the last day of pulling my car to pieces! i applied ensolite to the centre console inner walls and most importantly the entire floor. as with last time, the hardest part of the process was unclipping the wiring harness from underneath the seat - but once that's done the rest of the process goes remarkably smoothly (much smoother than the doors!)
for the centre console i put some dynamat and ensolite on the inner walls around where the gearshift is and forward of that; honda had put some (pathetic) sound absorbing foam material here so i figured they must have recognised the transmission as the source of at least some noise, so i went into overkill mode:
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/2...con1vf2.th.jpg
http://img83.imageshack.us/img83/6561/enscon2ya9.th.jpg
i then proceeded to attack the floor, i did this by taping double-stick tape to the floor first and then peeling it off bit by bit as i lay the ensolite down on top of it. the purpose of the tape is to prevent the ensolite from moving around too much; unlike the dynamat, the ensolite does not require full adhesion for maximum effect (as it's purpose is to help absorb airborne soundwaves):
http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6...oor1yp1.th.jpg
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/8...oor2co5.th.jpg
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/6...oor3zc5.th.jpg
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1...oor4yx4.th.jpg
thankfully, the above only took half a day (including cleanup) as i had planned the necessary equipment and step-by-step instructions beforehand. the next steps involve tarring the front wheel wells and looking further into getting quiet tyres!
Where did you source it from for so cheap?? Everywhere I go its $300 for a single extreme pack...NOT including installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by JaCe
No one is willing to give a clear quote for installation either, but they all say its time consuming...so say if it takes them like 4 - 5 hrs (since they are professionals)...thats an extra $250 or so by my estimates.
Are you happy with the installation they did as well?
JaCe would have to clarify, but i think this is for dynamat + installation in the front doors only. a typical front door install only takes about 1 sheet of dynamat (in the size that the bulk pack comes in) so my guess is that jace is paying $200 for 2 sheets, at ~$22 a sheet (the price i paid) he's paying ~$156 for labour.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ru$kI
a professional wouldn't take 4-5 hours (i know you're only using this figure as an example) - my guess would be about 2 hours per door max.
I used a material call Insuflex (looks similar to foam you are using, and there is another similar product called superlon) to dampen my previous car. However I cant seem to find any shop that sells these stuffs here.
For the Insuflex, there are 3 type of thickness, the thin 3mm, med 5mm and thick about 10mm or more. I used the thick for the floor of the car. Just bought 2 rolls, one roll for each side but didnt DE or stick them cause after you set the carpet back, it will be held to its place.
For the door, I use DE. The door panel I spary it with Cascade Quietkote, DE the speaker area and the lower part, and add a layer of the thin Insuflex.
Now I got a civic coupe and its very very very noisy....... Will slowly collect all the material needed before starting on it.
ahh...yea that seems more in the price range i've been quoted. As far as hours...I'm gonna sound deaden all 4 doors, boot, and rear shelf / panel....how many hours do u think a professional will take with that? since i'm weighing up whether its worth just purchasing the Dynamat and doing it all myselfQuote:
Originally Posted by chylld
Looks like you have taken this to the next level.
Did you do anymore reasearch into led sheeting ?
Ru$kI: I would definitely recommend you do it yourself. as soon as you find some shop manuals for your car, it'll be a cakewalk. you will save a LOT of money, and you'll know exactly what has been done... and it's pretty hard to stuff up really :)
just don't get too free with saying "I'm gonna sound deaden all 4 doors" - that could mean anything from a simple 1 layer dynamat on inner skin job, to a more thorough 3 layers dynamat, 4 layers ensolite on outer and inner skin with access hole reinforcement job (like mine).
VTECACCORD: not 100% sure who/what you're addressing, but if you mean my adventure with the ensolite then yes i would consider it the next level :) (mainly because it makes little sense to add more dynamat now)
i researched into lead sheeting and found some at bunnings, but i felt it was too heavy and thick to be worth the effort - also i'd have to buy some tools to hammer it into shape, and given that the floor actually isn't flat (carpet padding makes up for that) then it would have been a nightmare to get installed properly.
i was thinking doing inner and outer skin for the front doors...so 2 sheets on each front door. I'll do 1 sheet on each of the rear doors, and the rest (3 sheets + any excesses material that was cut from other sheets) on the boot & rear shelf (which covers the 6x9 speakers)
Do u think that's reasonable?
sorry for the late reply... i borked my email trying to setup a fancy name server / domain forward :(
for the front doors, 2 sheets sounds reasonable yes. i'm trying to remember how a bulk pack sheet size relates to the door skin size... but it should be roughly 1:1. so yes 2 sheets should be fine :)
the rear doors are much smaller, 1 sheet should be enough to do the whole inner skin + some of the outer skin. the outer skin on my civic at least is ridiculously resonant when undamped, so it was very well worth doing.
the boot can take quite a few sheets of dynamat, i reckon i used about 4 sheets on the boot alone - but if you don't have that much leftover, just target the flat and resonant areas, and especially the rear wheel wells if you can get to em.
Hmm...what if I dont use any Dynamat on the rear doors...and instead use 5 sheets on the boot / shelf? Do you reckon sound deadening rear doors makes alota difference (especially since there are no speakers in them as they're on the rear shelf)
if you have a sub, i'd definitely put more dynamat in the boot than the rear doors. i chose to dynamat the rear doors quite heavily because my main objective was to reduce road noise; but apart from doing that it won't help with SQ very much, if at all :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ru$kI
yep...i got a sub in the boot (Alpine 12" Type S, powered by an Alpine mono block amp), and its causing some rattle...do u think one layer of dynamat all round the boot is enough to stop the rattle?
rattling is produced by 2 parts hitting each other. while dynamat may help reduce the vibration of the panels enough to prevent parts hitting each other, you would have much more success actually tracking down which parts are causing the rattle and fixing the problem there. the purpose of dynamat is to reduce the resonance sound of the panels - another acoustic problem altogether :)
cool....I've tried doing that initially when i did some DIY sound deadening by filling the empty space b/w the plastic shelf and the metal under neath with some towels to eliminate potential contact and to reduce the amount of space the sound waves have to vibrate inside.
With the doors its very much the same as the rear shelf...so Dynamat should do wonders there.
With the boot however...it seems that the whole boot lid vibrates, and no matter to which point around it I apply pressure...the vibration still continues the same. The same seems to happen for the sides of the boot also
Any suggestions on which places in the boot to tackle first?? I.e. the places that may most likely contribute to the rattle
without knowing specifically where the rattle is, it's very hard to say. most likely however it's coming from either the left side of the boot where the wiring loom + boot release cable is, or the cables inside the boot lid for the tail lights. i'd check both areas and wrap some foam tape around anything that's loose enough to knock around.
for dynamatting, i recommend hitting the rear 3qtr panels. once you've removed the side trim in the boot, you'll easily be able to see these huge flat areas that resonate like crazy. after that, do the rear wheel housings and the flat areas under the floor. you could also do the spare wheel well, but usually you have a great big tyre bolted down onto it so i don't think it's a problem to start with.
Nothing like being greeted in the morning by 2 protruding pieces of supposedly waterproof high-strength duct tape showing at the bottom of the window:
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix1.jpg
essentially, weeks before i had covered my door outer skins with ensolite foam, "securing" them in place using a combination of double-sided tape and waterproof duct tape. what has happened is that both tapes have failed (in all 4 doors) and in the case of the left rear door (pictured above) the tape has actually caught onto the window while it was wound down and then popped up as i wound the window back up, and promptly stuck itself to the bottom edge exterior window seal!!
i decided to fix them all today and started at the rear right door, and this is what i found after taking off the access hole covers:
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix2.jpg
... and i was wondering why some of the power windows were feeling a bit more sluggish than others!
i removed the foam from inside the door and used one of the layers as a weatherseal, this time adhering it in place on the inner skin using proper foam spray adhesive. this stuff was literally foam-tearingly strong after only ~10 minutes of setting.
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix3.jpg
the ensolite in the front right door had similarly fallen over itself:
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix4.jpg
but i fixed it the same way, as with the left doors:
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix5.jpg
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix6.jpg
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix7.jpg
the left rear door interestingly showed that i had 'abused' 2 of the clips, pictured here with a box of spares i got at repco (which are a perfect fit replacement, btw):
http://jw.id.au/temp/ensfix8.jpg
as you can judge by the pictures, i've left my access hole covers totally off as i believed that, being based on very resonant 0.6mm aluminium sheeting in the first place, they were contributing to the road noise rather than countering it - a test drive after i finished up today confirmed that in fact they weren't helping at all! (SQ seems unaffected as well.)
EDIT: after almost 3 hours on the road today, i'd like to add that while the access hole covers weren't helping reduce noise, they weren't really adding noise either. my car seems to have recently developed a resonance pitch somewhere around 270-280hz, at the moment it's not obvious where it's coming from but it was there both before and after the access hole covers were removed, so it's not them.
can you fix the pics ?
hmm are the pics not working?? that's odd... i can see them from here...Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECACCORD
anyone else having problems with pics?
i've got splits which are going to be installed soon....anyone got any ideas where they're going to go? and also...anyone know what the 2 speaker grill thingos on the very corners of ur dash board are??
the woofers can go in the doors where the stock ones are, and the tweeters would go under those speaker grills at the corners of the dash. in the american models, that's where the stock tweeters are.
Yeah, I've got a pair of Jaycar REsponse Kevlar splits, and I installed the tweeters there.Quote:
Originally Posted by chylld
Tweeters were a bit bigger than the size of the stocks, but I pushed them in a bit and glued them. they're purrrfect ;-)
A lot of work has gone into that,
But from what I can see I really think you should have used some 3mm mdf on the access holes taped in using the black fabric tape, and then a layer of dynamat on top of that. BTW Paint the MDF to seal it stopping it from retaining moisture, the cheap black spray paint at bunning soaks in nicely.
Just another suggestion, I think the MDF is about 6 bucks a sheet, and if you need a jig saw you can borrow mine, i live close to the hills district, or you can pic one up at bunnings for 30 bucks
i originally planned to cover the access holes with 6mm MDF, however the access holes aren't flat so i figured it would have been much more trouble than it was worth. hence i tried the aluminium + dynamat + ensolite combo which was moldable, but didn't really make much of a difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by VTECACCORD
in the near future however, i plan on filling the plastic door trim with a sound-absorbent material that will lightly press against the ensolite i currently have over the access holes - i think this should be enough, without hampering access to the inside of the door too much should the need arise.
also, the cloth tape (which i also bought at bunnings) simply does not hold up inside the door consistently.
that said, i am still open to suggestions on how to properly seal those large and uneven access holes! :)