I also found this info which states it is an AUDM
OBD ID Market ECU Car/Engine notes
OBD2 B 866 AUDM P2T-Q12 99-00 Civic Si B16A3 MT, 66589, board M2Y-D 0016Z-L5004-A0 2nd gen immo, KS, no PA
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I also found this info which states it is an AUDM
OBD ID Market ECU Car/Engine notes
OBD2 B 866 AUDM P2T-Q12 99-00 Civic Si B16A3 MT, 66589, board M2Y-D 0016Z-L5004-A0 2nd gen immo, KS, no PA
Thanks for the pictures and info. Im not sure why your ECU is working the way it is, however since its all good best not to touch it.
No worries mate. Its a freak obviously.
i'm not complaining hahaha.
I have seen people mention it works on other forums around the world so obviously there is some little glitch that has been found somewhere.
HI Ben,
do you think this will work on PDE ecu. euro r h22 ecu
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Acco...item4ad8cc1c7a
at the moment im doing conversion to a cd5 accord which is obd1 car .... and still using the obd2b complete engine harness, dizzy and ecu. havent touched the ecu yet as im still trying to finish the engine bay at the moment.
or is it alot safer and easier to buy imob delete board ?
http://www.xenocron.com/obd2-bdhf-im...ace6270b5c7bff
thanks
This DIY will not work on those ECU's. You will need the Immobiliser bypass module, I can supply you with one if needed.
Quote:
Originally Posted by munster42
OBDIIA ECU's with the IMMO-AO immobiliser system will run if you remove the board but the engine lamp stays on and you cant read codes.
i just did this to my p73. havent tested it yet but it was easy!
Hello from France !
I own a 1999 Honda Logo with a
37820-P7A-G01 ECU.
Sometimes when I try to start, only the starter runs, but the engine don't have ignition nor fuel. I remove the key, put it again and after some trials, it works.
Yesterday, I was driving, the green light with the key light on for about 1 second...
4 years ago my Honda dealer have done this : parts 39730s04G02 (immobilizer unit) and 39400S50003 (main relay)
So I would like to remove the immobiliser system.
I have openned my ECU and on the small board, (not an IMMO A0 it seems):
Honda HIC-RLO1
DELCO:16244639
4639190411189
If anyone may tell me how to do this I would be very happy!
you need a Immo bypass module for that ECU
PM me if you would me to supply you with one.
PM Done!
EDIT: Nevermind.... I ripped the chip at the top out and the car started fine :) (5 minutes later, as expected, I found the old key)
Hi there, I think I have a similar board as tony822. His is a G11 but mine is G12. 37820-PHX-G12 to be exact.
I lost my only key and if I want my new key to work I'm going to have to bring the car to the dealership. Which is 700 km away from me and it would likely be cheaper to scrap the car and buy another car.
I already bought a new key, but was hoping to be able to skip the 700 km trip with a non working car, and disable the immobilizer :)
Could you guys help me in any way?
Can I do this myself or do I need to buy a chip or something like that?
http://dog8me.com/civic/1.jpg
http://dog8me.com/civic/2.jpg
Do you get an error code with the immo board removed ?
The check engine light was already on because of an o2 sensor issue. I have not checked if there are more errors now, but I'm guessing yes. I'll connect it to my computer and let you know what errors pop up.Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
When I start it now, I have to switch the ignition on, wait about 5 seconds and then start.
If I try starting without the way time, it's just going to start without success for those 5 seconds and then turn the engine on.
Guess I would need some kind of a dummy chip if that was an issue for me, but in my case, I just start it like it was a diesel, the wait time is fine by me :)
P1607 - Manufacturer specific code. Please refer to your vehicle's service manual for more information.
I'm guessing it's this one...
yeah that is the OBDII code when you remove the immo module for non AUDM ECU's
let me know if you need the bypass module (dummy chip as you described)
hi, this is my first post on this forum, go easy on me :)
A lad at work owns a car breakers and he asked me if it is possible to bypass the immobiliser on a 1998 civic 1.4 petrol, is the ecu on his car, the same as the ecu that this thread is about ?
thanks in advance
**edit** he reckons this is something to do with the immobiliser ??
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...pst2uvvgrn.jpg
Hi
I'm guessing your not in Australia as that Immobiliser Control unit differs from our Megamos Control Unit. Your friends ECU would probably be the P2P type (two ECU connectors) that is different to this DIY.
I can supply a bypass module for the Immobiliser if needed however you will need to post a picture of the inside of the ECU.
Yeh I am a wee bit far away from you lol, I'm in Northern Ireland. No way of us doing it diy then :-( ahh well, any other way round it ?
if your ECU looks different to the one in the DIY then you need to purchase a bypass module.
I can supply you with one if needed.
You will need a bypass module for that ECU.
Can I get one of these closer to the UK ?
Based on the length of this thread, it looks like you've been doing this for quite a while ECU-MAN..Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
I am inclined to trust your judgement and would be interested in getting one of your bypass modules sent here to Norway, but I'd like to know more about what it does and why.
I have 3 EJ9 Civics and I think all of them have the same P3Y ECU.
My son somehow peeled away the black part exposing the chips on the keys on one of the cars .. (he lost one chip and the other one is being held in place with electrical tape..)
I want to remove or disable the immobilizer altogether.
Do I need to find some chip sensor box under the dash as well?
Attachment 29096
Your P3Y ECU is much like our P2K ECU for the D16Y4, so yes you will need a bypass module for those ECU's.
Once the bypass module is installed you must then bypass the starter cut relay by jumping 2 wires.
So.....Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
Do you provide this bypass module?
Price?
I'd still like to know exactly what the module will do. (I'm inquisitive by nature and like to know how things work.)
Could you also tell me more about the starter-cut relay. where should it be located and is it just a matter of bridging the 2 wires in the connector?
I'm really curious about what it would take to run this little D14 out of the car.
The chassis has rust and I can't get the car approved as roadworthy anymore but the drivetrain is still fine.
I'd like to make a tracked vehicle with the engine and transaxle but would need to know the engine would run.
I know I will need fuel and a battery.. + wiring harness on the engine, probably fuse box in the engine bay and the ECU.
How could I get a hold of the circuitry diagrams for the electrical system?
I could get rid of any unnecessary electrical equipment and only keep the necessities.
Set up a push button start and kill switch.
This could be fun....
Sent you a PM about the module
fyi, I converted my ek1 d16y4 to a d16y5, p2m ecu from a 1998 VTI Sedan.
Symptoms I was having were
Car starter turns over, has ignition/spark but injectors do not operate.
Car does have fuel pressure, fuel pump prime.
I've checked injectors with a test-light probe on all 4 injectors and none of them are pulsing on the ground side.
After racking my brain for a few months, double, triple checking everything - it turned out to be this that solved the problem.
Big thanks to John! Such an asset to this community!
Hi ECU-MAN, tried to pm you re: an ek1 1998 model immobiliser issue. But your pm was full. Thanks.
try now dudeQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
PM sent, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by ECU-MAN
help with 2001 honda crv ecu please, i swapped the radio and it seems that triggered the immobiliser.
I have replied to your PM
pm sent
User DonGak please PM me your email address as I cannot reply to your PM
Hey ECU-MAN, my mother in law's 2000 Civic got stolen and recovered. The thieves trashed the ignition barrel. My father in law has replaced that with one from a wreck but still can't start the car - he says due to the immobiliser.
The ECU is a P2K I think - it has on it:
37820-p2k-q52
153-206429
3C
Can you give me any suggestions to get the car running again? They don't want to spend much because until it's fired up we don't even know just how much damage the thieves did.
Let me know.
Tried to PM you but my sent folder says "zero"... not sure if it is working.
Jason
Hi Jason
I did receive your PM, did you get my reply ?
James di Griz please PM me your email address as I cannot reply to your PM since you are a guest