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wow ok thats interesting i was under the impression that the rod and bolts would allow the 2.4 to rev much higher without being unsafe to the engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
im currently getting a k24 put into my EG and the ECU that im getting unfortuatly does not have a rev limiter :( which means im going to have to be very careful when driving hard. what would you suggest i keep my rpm to?
by the way sorry for hi-jacking the thread
7500 rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by bal
dude run hondata kpro ecu for your K swap :thumbsup:
Yup, even for the TSX race car in the SCCA Touring Car championship which has aftermarket internals and cams, they limit the rev to 7800rpm for reliability.
You're right, a K24 running a '04 S2K crank (with a deckplate or custom rods) will destroke it to 2.3L. It will produce lower piston speeds and a good rod/stroke ratio that will let you rev the crap out of it. Bore to bore distances should be the same for both motors, RSRs drift S2K is stroked using a K24 crank, and H22 pistons and rods to produce a 2.4L.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
im running a mugen ECU which was recomended by my mechanic and sed to be as good as the kpro.Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
what are the advantages of the kpro?
have you had any experence with the mugen ECU.?
my friend has one in his k-swap and it seems to be really good, just no rev limiter
Mugen ECU is just an ECU with different fuel, ignition, VTC mapping, vtec point and rev limiter. But you can't alter anything on it. The K-pro is programmable using software and a laptop. You can tune it when you change your mods, unlike the Mugen ECU which is fixed.Quote:
Originally Posted by bal
Mugen n1 ecu have rev limiter around 9000 rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by bal
wow so much love for K....Where is the love for H?
This setup will be poors man K series swap.
I used to drive eg h22 type-S, i must say that engine was mean, but the only down side is the gear ratio which is 4.2.. now have sold the car and current owner ran it with result 13.2 1/4 mile ..
i would say h22-s with better gear ratio would be better than stock audm k series, but i still prefer k, you will get more power at the end ..
yeah they are planning to get rid of that ratio problem ;)
lol quiet you. Yes its gonna have a special gearbox.Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootbonzai
hahah that's right, they are getting that super special D-series Turbo BOX!Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
muhahahahahahahha lol i like that jimmy a special boxxx
what engine is this Toda is talking about
Race engine - Improved production car / drag
TODA 2.4L crate engine (As used in ASM car)
Includes quad throttles / dry sump / exhaust manifold / Tuning data for Motec M800
300hp – guaranteed
The au K20Z has more power than the K20a
Impressive parts there. LOL. Is it gonig to make the 300hp atw or at the flywheel?Quote:
Originally Posted by EL_DC5
Be very careful of crate motors.
with the gear ratios... you can pick up the mFactory 4.64 or the 5.2 Final drive for the H-series... that should fix the problem. Its pretty popular is the US. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by 2_and
H-series all the way!!
A H22A box with a 4.7 final drive and 22" slick is a good combination to run 115mph at 8,000rpm in 4th. :)
That fixes the gearing problem, but the shafts sits in a crap position.Quote:
Originally Posted by WhoKnowz
Thats if you use Hasport mounts. Make your own and position the engine where it should be. You may need to do a little surgery under the car and to the firewall at the bottom though. ;)
True, but you can also correct it by using some other gearbox ;);)Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy rooster
True as well.
I knew what you were saying. ;)
Go the H22a.... 13.2 @ 112 (wheel spinning) with only a cat-back (standard headers) and CAI. Not far off what K's are doing...
:thumbsup: Impressive. Are you using stock mounts? what tyres?Quote:
Originally Posted by Jarkz
HCP Engineering Engine mounts & A/C bracket, Hasport rear trans mount.
Tyres are badly worn Falken Ziex's 205/50/16's.
very nice.
fark 112MPH thats massive. Im pretty sure its not a stock engine
I would say. stick to the k20a... more stuff its being developed compare to h22a.
h22a is getting older.. its been arround for awhile. while the new generations gonna take over it.
well from what i knew off. mate of mine back in indo had a H22a turbo fully built engine for drag on an eg hatch.. hardly touch 10 sec on 1/4 mile due to traction.. always on lows 11..
and still drive able on street. not so bad. but only at nightime :p lol!!
well dats some idea...
Which track did he race this h22a turbo eg drag car ? Sentul ?Quote:
Originally Posted by 040501912
Havent heard of any 11 sec FWD Hondas from Indo yet.
From what I know Sigma Speed B series powered EG drag car ran some low 12s and thats about it.
the ASM car is a s2000 track car so im guessing it a F20C crate motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by EL_DC5
it was the black eg h22aQuote:
Originally Posted by EG5
i think it was speedZ or something lah .. =X
i'd say go the H22A. will cost less and you have a spare 6g. then you can either turbo it or strengthen the motor with JUN goodies and the upgrade the ecu too.
i personally have seen a few H22As inside old accords and civics. they are a lethal combination. sure the k20a is nice but only if u have the funds for it.
K20A - Good power, good gearing, but costly
B16/18 - Less power, good gearing, cost effective
H22A - Good power, bad gearing, cost effective
The solution? H2B i.e H22A with B16/18 transmission. K-Power and acceleration at a fraction of the cost ;)
ask marc...he's had both type S h22a and a K20 put in his car...
Quote:
Originally Posted by cristian
:thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by BADHBT
ooh my bad
i woudnt buy anything else apart from a k-motor, tho its cost alot more, its worth the investment.
Kseries ftw!
What you said got me thinking, so I thought I would play around with the idea on excel.... I wanted to see the data graphically and I found it quite interesting so thought I would shareQuote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Performance
Using dynos from http://www.importreview.com/dyno.html I tried to find near stock H22a, K20a JDM Type R and B18cR dynos which IMO best reflected the engines claimed flywheel figures.
So assuming ~20% drivetrain loss
=> 220hp TypeR K20a = ~175whp
=> 200hp H22a = ~160whp
=> 190hp B18cR = ~150whp
Note: These are US dynos so readings are high
http://a262.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...5475988f65.jpg
Nothing surprising here, pretty much what you would expect.
However, whats more interesting is when you graph each of the engine's torque curves factoring in gear ratios....
http://a549.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...270a70dc24.jpg
The 6sp gearbox of the K20a clearly gives it an advantage
And since you mentioned H2B, here is H22a /w ITR gear ratios....
http://a493.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...836d1cba3c.jpg
Definitely a big improvement, basically the more area under those curves the better the cars acceleration will be...
:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
Awesome post. Love the comparison.
that H22a only 200hp. JDM type S has 220HP.
If the idea is to achieve the best possible 1/4 mile times then you really need to work back from what rpm your peak power is and hence what rpm you want to cross the finish line at. Then what gear you want (ie 4th or 5th) and then look at tyre size. Once you know all of that then you can look at gearbox ratios and final drive ratio.
There's no point going for a combination that lands you halfway through a gear over the line nowhere near peak power. Your just losing time. Its the total combination, not just a bunch of ratios. One combo is not best for all situations.
Yup, absolutely spot on. The best situation is to usually hit your ET right at the end of 4th Gear, so you would want to change your gearing to suit this. Of course, what gearing you go for though all depends on your setup.
This is the main advantage of using a B-Series tranny over an H or K i.e Gearing Options ;)
Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy rooster
I do agree, however that doesnt really apply for street applications where the first 3 gears are for accelerating, while 4th and 5th are used for cruising.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyper_Performance
Thats why a B-Series tranny is also good, as you can have a close ratio 1/2/3/4 for acceleration, and keep the stock 5th for low-rpm driving.
interesting TB + intake manifold design for h22a from Wilson manifold http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c...1958_284805483
fark thats nice man ^^
WOW nice manifold. very interesting design.
If you can source a H2B kit for a reasonable price, you couldnt go past a H22
d@mn with the TB pointing more of like towards the corner firewall....that'd be a little painful to design intake for that kit ... built in NOS tap/port is a bonus :)
for the k20a who does it and where plz just what iv been looking for drive in, drive out for 12k
its funny when people bring up the h22a will alter your weight distrubution therefore alter ur handling but have u not noticed u pretty much do that anyway when u strip out the back? it evens affects with a stock motor maybe not as big but its still there.. so stripping out all the interior like fatboyz car would weight at the front really be a problem?
If you have a B series engine equip into EG/DC/EK you can't go wrong with a H2B kit. Even a stock JDM h22a (not type S) with the bolt ons will runs 12's.
update....never got to do the H2B swap as the H22a type S motor ran the ATTS and no one makes a adaptor plate for it.
that sucks.
what about for a circuit car rather than a drag car?
k20/h22/boosted b motor?
can u use the h2 on the h22 type s
With all honesty if you want a dragger go with the h22a. With the k20a idea, i personally dont advise it because of the fact its way to pricy, ur paying 12 grand for the engine then you probablly have 2 do some customising i.e mounts. However beware with the h22a conversion, as it only is used for drag racing, cornering isnt the best due to the weight of the engine and differential. If you want a fast and reliable daily engine swap go for the b18a from the integra type r DC2's, these engines are great and offer a large variety of aftermarket parts. Hope this helps!!Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
yr of 2006...Quote:
Originally Posted by midnitebluevtec
I think the K20 set up will be lighter than the H set up? I may be wrong...
If that's the case, go K
Ive been always advised k20 over h22. lighter engine and better fuel economy give better overall "performance" and driveability as it were..but best to weigh up the price diference...as you are not talking about 1k here...
Good advise...Quote:
Originally Posted by reedyek4
You've been better 3 years ago...
i dint know honda had an engine called a k20 3 years ago :DQuote:
Originally Posted by 45SET
K20 is old... since 2002? DC5 type R.... that's 7 years mate
i meant my personally...i dint kno anything about hondas 2 years ago let alone threeQuote:
Originally Posted by STiR
Old thread...... hmmm wank factor K series. Dollar value H22a.
Bang for buck... H22A + 4.64 FD