thanks for the pic.. looks like a really nice install, was trying to figure out if i will go carpet finish of not.. but that looks sweet. think i will go that way. wanted to go sealed as well.
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thanks for the pic.. looks like a really nice install, was trying to figure out if i will go carpet finish of not.. but that looks sweet. think i will go that way. wanted to go sealed as well.
Have paid for and waiting to receive 2x (should be here Friday)
12" Subs
MODEL: TremorX-124 1250 watts
# Stitched leads
# Spring loaded speaker connections
# Anti wobble cone construction
# TCT Technology (Turbine Cooled Transducer) for high effeciency output.
# Military grade single 4-Ohm voice coil
Also 1x
Mono Block
PH2000W/D1.1
Number of channels: 1/Mono
Class: "D"
Max Power Output: 1400 Watts
Power 1-Ohm: 1 x 100 Watts
Power 2-Ohm Bridged: 1 x 700 Watts
Power 4-Ohm Stereo: 1 x 450
Damping Factor: >800
Cross Over Slopes: 24dB/OCT
THD: >0.016
SNR: 104dB
Speaker Connections: 8-Gauge
Power/Ground Connections: 4-Gauge
Input Types: Low Level RCA Inputs
Dimensions (HxWxD): 2.375" x 10.125" x 12 "
craazy lotsa respect dray
mind giving us a breakdown of the cost of ur project? lol
Hey Dray,
If you are thinking of having your cones facing into the cabin, have you thought of putting perspex on the back of the sub box to show off your magnets? You will have to make sure the inside of you sub box is nice and clean though. Put some tinted perspex so you can only see inside when the lights are on. Wouldn't be that expensive to make, but would take alot of time. I have seen some photos of somebody in Melb doing it.
I'm still in the process of going through my audio set up. I'm getting a bit of hiss through either my LOC or RCAs so I'm trying to figure that out this weekend.
Also, if you want a 1 Farad Precision Response capacitor, I might know where you can get the old ones that will match your amps. I'll post a pic of mine soon.
These a rough prices are some are a little old, some prices have dropped alot for certain parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanc
Screen ~$400 (now much cheaper)
Power Supply ~$90
DVD/CD~$60
PC ~$600
Case ~$50
Amp wiring kit ~$90
other wiring ~$60 (3.5mm to RCA, Fuse holder etc)
Response Amp ~$240
12" subs x 2 ~$160 each
mono block -$700
Also Planning earthquake VTEK 6" fronts and 6.5" rears
I really don't want to add it all up lmao
thought about doing the perspex thing, but planning on mounts amps there to conserver atleast alittle boot space. somthing like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by cutchorama
http://www.earthquakesound.com/IMAGE...y/chuck/c3.jpg
Trying to figure out if i'm going to need a cap, and/or go dual battery.. but will keep it in mind thanks :)
Got Subs and amp today :)
http://a205.ac-images.myspacecdn.com...2ce715c11c.jpg
Also paid for and waiting to arrive:
For Front..
http://www.earthquakesound.com/IMAGE...S/VTEK/mc6.jpg
MODEL: VTEK MC-6
# SPECIFICATIONS 250 Watts Max
# FR 405Hz-23kHz
# Impedance 4 ohms
# Sensitivity: 91dB @ 1W/1M
FEATURES
# Two 6.5 " drivers:
-Tri-layer, electroplated carbon fiber cones with aluminum surface sealer
# Two 1" silk dome tweeters
# Two high power crossovers
# Cast aluminum basket
# Four mounting options
# New carbon fiber styled crossover
# Over-sized polypropylene crossover capacitors
# 12-db-per-octave slopes
# Flat or -3db tweeter connections
For Rear
http://www.earthquakesound.com/IMAGE...EK/vtek/62.jpg
# 500 Watts
# FR: 45Hz - 22kHz
# Mounting Depth:
2.51" . 2 8/16" . 64mm
# 25mm ASV voice coil
# 1" 20mm silk dome tweeter
* Neodymium magnet
* Poly switch tweeter protection
# 4 ohm
# Die-cast aluminum basket
# Low mass tension glass fiber cone
# Long excursion low profile design
# Nomax / Romax spider
# Swivel tweeter
# Ultra fast response drive
# Brushed aluminum lip
# Heavy duty braided tensile leads
# PistonMax technology
VTEC + VTEK YO
cutchorama, thats a nice neat setup you have there. Response gear is pretty damn good for the price aswell! it's not shit. i have the Response 4*100w bridged to run my Earthquake 12" and the other 2 channels running my 2 front Earthquake 6.5"s and it powers them all fine. the sub could use more grunt but it still does alright.
with Dray_Templars setup it should be a nice even sounding setup with good clarity but not harsh and nice deep bass with punch and no boominess. the dual 12" enclosure he will be getting made up next week is an Earthquake designed bandpass setup. i have basically the same enclosure but for 2 10"s and designed for a hatch. although it is more of a dB competition style enclosure it still sounds great.
i guess i might leave my car at home a bit more often and hitch a ride in the multimedia theatre bass machine:angel:
well theres my interfering 2 cents worth of dribble.
Ash. the Nissan dude. :p:D
thanks for the pics cutchorama, very nice setup very inspirational, will be very happy if my setup turns out like yours :)
love the flush mounted amps, looks sweet might steal your idea hehe :)
P.S the pics I used were from the earthquake site in there gallery.
Dray_Templar can i please say this, you are a legend.. damn your setup is something to drool at.. *drools*
Wow, that looks great. What is on the floor in your boot? Is that the face plate to make the amps flush?
How did you go with running power and audio down your car?
My carPC is getting there, just adding some final touches. I really should post some pictures. I'll try to this weekend.
cutchorama, how did ya go with your carputer? so far i've blow 3 fuses and melted the + power connector i had setup lol... replaced it all and all happy again :)
(note: don't use bannana connectors for power on carputer they melt hehe)
still waiting to get the rest of speakers installed, my installer is having health problems atm :(
Guess i will use the money to get a service instead, then save up again for install..
Such as life.
I have been meaning to post some pictures of how the PC is coming along. I too have blown a few fuses in the effort to change small things. Just this weekend Steve and I found a loose fuse that was making my PC very dodgy. Managed to get it all fixed up now so looking good, I will need to take pictures and upload them, just need to upgrade centrafuse and install my hardware drivers so that my sterring wheel controls work
Here is a quick update, I have been experimenting with software designed to use a relay to turn on and off my amplifiers, also some other pics of my car PC
http://img261.imageshack.us/img261/7...0766rw6.th.gif
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/7...0747pq7.th.gif
http://img243.imageshack.us/img243/6...0751do1.th.gif
http://img364.imageshack.us/img364/5...0753ha6.th.gif
http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/6...0754nh0.th.gif
http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/3...0764rs3.th.gif
Very nice mate, where did you source your screen from/how much?
thats the infill g4
cool :thumbsup: wish i got that setup in my FD1 :D
Thanks for the update :) looking sweet.
I'm just using winamp at the moment with a modded skin, found some of the other software made it hard to search/find music. but will bet back into testing out some current versions soon.
got all the VTEK speakers installed the other week sounds 400% better, still have to mount cross overs behind screen there just sitting in there atm.
will post some pics soon.. but it looks all pretty stock.. untill you open the boot... or look at the touch screen, (no one seems to notice unless there looking for it) pretty stealth. :)
you should think about putting a mac mini in your car with a solid state drive, and maybe getting a 3G card in the back for internet connection. Would be awesome... next project i reckon.
:wave:
Buzz.. have you read anything about whats in my car? and what it can do?Quote:
Originally Posted by buzz
Intel Core 2 Duo 2.2Ghz
Corsair Micro 2GB DDR2 800mhz
Abit Fatal1ty I90HD
500GB SATA harddrive
+wireless card
+bluetooth
+external 250gib usb drive
why would i downgrade to a mac mini, have less performance and less HDD space, less software options etc etc..
(for bazz)
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...80_31_full.jpg