Printable View
It's a brand name -- I would think that it's intended to make the average person think about the way it sticks. They could have called it "gluetec" and it still wouldn't be misleading. If they called it "clowntec", would you think it was made from real clowns?Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_will
Unless there is a clear statement made (like "our oil is magnetic" when it isn't), there is no misleading going on in the name (as far as consumer laws go).
Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
as i have tried to explain to you - whether it is magnetic or electrostatic is completely irrelevant - all that matters is that it sticks to things. my argument was that it could be bad when changing oil because some of the old oil would remain in the engine. that argument did not rely on the distinction between magnetic and electrostatic, it relied on the oil sticking to things. yes, this is a technical forum, but picking apart other peoples arguments when theyre attempting to be helpful is just going to piss them off
Man i think 10-60 would shit up your engine unless you run enduro in 40 degree heat... or maybe regular country runs?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tknova
Stop arguing then if that is your view. I was actually interested that it was electrostatic. You contributed, he gave constructive criticism, we got the right answer. The end, unless ego is at stake.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr_will
Mr_will, I have nothing against you. It's just that me being from a chemical eng. background really do HAVE to make the distinction between being magnetic, electrostatic or just being plain sticky in our everyday life/work.
If that means being pedantic to you, then I apologise.
But in terms of chemicals/oils/fuels, I will always be like this. If it is a fault and you feel that my comments are pissing you off, then please ignore what I post. I would rather not have any discussions turn into non-constructive arguments.
Try this oil. Torco SR1 MPZ Synthetic 5w-30. Hard to find in Oz. I bought it in a 20L drum which cost about $190 delivered from the QLD distributor. (About $50 / 5 L). Have run it for 15000km sofar. I changed from mineral oil @ 5K kms. Engine is a little noisier & a tad harsher but this is made up for with great performance. I read a comparison which pitted this oil against other similar Synthetics on the dyno & hence my decision. My 20K change is due & I will swap to Castrol Synth R 0-40 ($60 on special) for the summer heat and to try it out for 5000kms.
Tip: Put in a fuel-system cleanser into your fuel just before you change oil. It washes all the **** out and it lands in your oil ready for a change. Change filter at same time.
I've got my 10K service coming up in a couple weeks (just ticked over 9K 2 days ago). I think I'll try the motul 8100 5-40w oil as long as the dealer doens't give me grief on warranty, otherwise too hard to argue with them.
What has every1's 10K service cost so far as I've heard Honda serving can be expensive?
Someone has written to Honda Australia regarding the use of oil of other brands and was told that warranty was not affected UNLESS the use of the oil was what contributed to the failure. For my 10,000km service, I brought my own Castrol Formula R 0w-40 and the dealer did the service (and changed oil filter) for $198.Quote:
Originally Posted by BiLL|z0r
When you book your car in, you must tell them that you are bringing your own oil.
From what I've heard, Honda will say non-OEM oil was the reason for a headlight not working. Still not sure if it's worth the drama later in life as I got this car so I wouldn't have issues with non-oem parts like I did my very modified lancer.
Well, someone posted here the reply from Honda Australia, so you won't get your engine oil killing your headlights/wipers/windscreen/boot warranty excuse.
I have been running Mobil 1 10w - 30 fully synthetic since the first service which I did not have done until 2000km (no loan car available). I contacted both Honda & Mobil & both replied in writting that as long as the recommended grade was used, there would be no issue with warranty. I have now done just under 60k & the engine runs as smooth as ever, with just as much power as ever & no oil consumption at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by aaronng
I was surprised when I got written confirmation from Honda, but got it I did.
I supply my own oil at every service & the cost of the service is adjusted accordingly
Hmm... don't most people think 2000km is too soon for a fully synthetic?
It's a pity nobody's done a 1000 car trial with the different type of oils yet. It would be interesting to compare in a controlled environment the performance/lifespan of the different oils and when exactly is the best time to change to a fully synth.
Tossing up Honda FEO or Motul 4100 for the 1000km and 5000km change. Haven't decided when to go fully synth yet but I have my eye on the Motul 300V or the 8100 at the moment!
I put in synthetic when my car had 15000km.Quote:
Originally Posted by tanalasta
I'd put FEO for 1000km, and then Motul 4100 for the 5000km. Why are you changing at 5000km though? Isn't it 10000km?
The dealer probably told him to get it serviced at 5000km to suck money out of him.
Nah. I do a fair few short trips. And I don't trust the Honda FEO stuff to last 10000km. :p
Well my dealer wants me to get it serviced at 5000km, and I'm like wtf I'll stick with Honda's 10,000km interval thanks.
How much is an oil change in WA? Here in sydney it's about $250 at the dealer's. I bring my own oil so it's $200. I only change it at the dealers because so far they've been happy to sort out any problems that I had.
What $250 just for a ten minute oil change? Serious?
Haven't you serviced yours yet EuroDude? Dealers charge too much here. I can change it myself, but I reckon spend $200, and get them to change anything that I complain about. I just got a new glovebox last week because mine was "warped"
hahahha
I got the first 1000km service but honda pay for the labour, so I have yet to pay for dealer labour until the 10,000km service.
Although I may change the oil myself at 5000km for peace of mind (plus there is nothing wrong with the car) - the car is still being run in to a certain extent. Who knows whats in the oil lol
:thumbsup: Regular oil changes are gooood!Quote:
Originally Posted by EuroDude
Why do you guys change so often....? Its a waste of $$ and time unless your trackdayin-it every weekend???
Mineral oil starts to break down after 5000km so its best to change it to keep the engine in good shape and keep up engine performance. Decent Synthetic oil can last 10,000km though, so you have a choice of Mineral $30/5000km or Synth $60/10000km.
Well thats what i've gathered from various sources... :)
Castrol Magnatec mineral oil only lasted 7000km for me. Suddenly it became rough. You could feel the difference. Now I use either Castrol Formula R(Edge) 5w-30 (cheap) or 0w-40 (expensive) depending on how rich I feel. LOL
I am still unconvinced as to the merits at changing oil ever 5000kms - i dont know what u guys are doing to your cars to get the oil to "break down" as you all say...
Might have to look into the 5w-30 edge and change at 15k and see if i notice any difference
Besides the fact Mineral oil breaks down, many ppl change the oil every 5000km simply because it gets dirty over time and because engine performance suffers the longer you leave old oil in there.
With my Civic at 200,000km+, it felt like it regained 20kw when I changed the oil after 10,000km. (using Mobil Synth-S)
If you do mostly short trips (less than 5 minutes) where your oil temperature does not get a chance to reach 100ºC, there will be some buildup of moisture in the engine oil. Then, our petrol has a teensy weensy bit of sulfur in it. When combusted, it produces SO3. When SO3 mixes with water, you get H2SO4, which is sulfuric acid. It's only a low concentration but you know what happens when aluminium mixes with even weak acids. So for those people, it is actually recommended to follow the "severe" service schedule and change their oil more often.
Well my car has done 6000km and I changed the oil today with Honda FEO - my gawd the engine performs great now. So even with new cars, the 5000km oil changes are quite significant performance wise.
I got my 10K service done today at John Blair Honda (Melb).
Was going to buy & give them FEO but they said they could do this (use FEO) instead of their usual (Castrol Magnatec).
Engine seems quite and slightly free (but could also be the placebo effect)...
I've used fully synthetic ever since my 1000k service.......don't think its really that bad for the car. I've almost done 40k km with no probs (touch wood!) ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by tanalasta
I use Castrol Formula R 0-40w @ 10k service. Works well for winter and summer! I Like too keep the engine using the same weight oil everytime. I don't think it's a good idea to change weights often.