All good mate.
Thats right.. the track is a good indication of the true hp. When i mean track its 1/4 mile not circuit.
But from what i've heard Hi power racing get his engines from overseas pre-built?
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All good mate.
Thats right.. the track is a good indication of the true hp. When i mean track its 1/4 mile not circuit.
But from what i've heard Hi power racing get his engines from overseas pre-built?
just spoken to my gf's uncle who is heavily in the v8 drag scene, aparently there is a really good machine shop in braeside in melbourne, think the head machinist/owners name was steve (sorry forgot his name) has full cnc machinery, does heaps of work for the v8 supercars guys etc. anyone heard of such a place? also a good shop in adelaide that does cnc heads?
There are plenty of places all over australia with cnc machinery dude. The issue in my opinion would actually be finding one with programs for honda heads.
benson he gets his engines done by his uncle in singapore, but what does that matter, its the tuning that is the brains and what makes the hp of a good built engine RIGHT.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
and wat alot of ppl dont believe is his b20crx use a chipped ecu with vafc2 (wat 99% of ppl consider it as rubbish) and its is road tunedQuote:
Originally Posted by B20NA
last time he called me he sed they are getting a dyno, so look out for future projects
have you found anybody suitable or you getting this done in the US.
Ive heard blueprint manufacturing are also good.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EGB18CT
nope undecided as yet, waiting to get some time off to speak to some shops here in Melb, also most likely going to Calder this sat (big drag meet on) speak to few of my gf's uncles friends see what shops are around and also get this contact no for the shop in braeside (aparently employs over 20 staff, full machine shop, churns out proper race cars etc..) Ill try get it done here cos i already have a good motor, if not then usa it is.
Take it to Pavtek.
If they can build a Top Fuel engine they can machine a Honda engine. List of costs HERE.
thanks grumpy, ill check that place out some of the cars on their pages look very familiar (steves vk) and the ss ute. Anyway ill see what the have to offer.
ok i have chosen a block at last...
Going with a Dart block (closed deck bla bla bla) now which bore to get as i would really like it to be 84mm not 84.5 (just for future machining in mind for rebuilds etc..) now they have it in 81 or 82mm standard block or in 84.5mm block, is it recommended to get the 81/82mm block and bore it out to 84mm or get the 84.5mm?
sory egb18ct, i cant be of help
just subscribing!
good luck
Off topic but for future reference you can click "Thread Tools -> Subscribe to thread" at the top of this thread to subscribe in future :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by krogoth
Get the 84.5mm tall deck block. :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by EGB18CT
I agree with Adrian.
Do pauter make suitable rods for the tall deck and all that? dont know much about the tall deck option. If i was to go with 84.5mm would future rebuilds be safe at possible 85mm if it needs to be re bored. This will not be a street car too.
Hopefully i can save enough and maybe get a dart head or the new endyn heads but there $$$
its ok found what i was after (rod stroke details etc), just do pauter make the rods for this application? (tall deck)
Yes, Pauter will make a long rod for the tall deck, not sure if special order, but depending where you get them from they wont charge you any more, just be a wait involved.
sweet as.
Just another question now as im getting closer to putting the list together, what are your thoughts on running a higher compression on these turbo motors?
I know most run cp in 9:1 9:5, i was thinking of 10:5 - 11cp, with boost fairly high 30psi, making 600+hp c16 fuel (run 140-145+mph) what are your thoughts on this in terms of reliability, power, and performance etc?
Talk to a few piston manufacturers,
If you're getting the rods made, see if you can get the even longer with the pin moved a little higher.
That is instead of an installed or compression height of 30mm, why not use a modern box section piston with a C/H of say 27mm...
This will help you get more top end & allow you to use a longer stroke without compromsing rod ratio.
Well, that's my 5 cents
Honda ran 9.5:1 in their 80's F1 engines...Quote:
Originally Posted by EGB18CT
There was a reason for this.;)
If you run 11.0:1 & 30psi, it is likley the project will end in tears.
It's not an impossible ask, but it's not an easy one to tune.
Plus, C16 is lazy fuel,
You'll need approx 7~8 deg more timing than you'd use on pump gas,
& instead of say 11.2:1 A/F you're tuning for 12.2~12.5:1
Otherwise it wont make power at high rpm.
FWIW Elf Turbo max is better.:thumbsup:
9:1 comp will be the best, also note comp can change with your deck height and gasket, so best will be 9:1
I have been dealing with <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> since November 2006, and I strongly recommend that you dont go anywhere near them!!!!!!!!!!!
I dropped a valve in November 2006 and my car is STILL off the road. I took my car to <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> for repairs, they outsourced <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>for the machine work. After this build I think that relationship is pretty much over. Due to severe bore scuffing I was encouraged to go with Darton sleeves. They repaired the head and assembled the engine with a few upgraded internals.
During the build, for 3 months they were telling me the compression ratio of the TODA 87.5mm pistons I bought, had a compression ratio in the 16’s,and could not be used, but they'll see if theres anything they can do.They were also concered that deck hight would be a serious issue. Mind you this is a mass produced product built specifically for the F20, how the Fuk could it be so off. After finally getting a hold of the piston specs and emailing them to ***** (<E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>) all of a sudden they had figured out the issue,and the pistons were 12.3:1 and there was enough clearance, as indicated by TODA. They blamed it on an apprentice miscalculating. You think after so many years in the business they’d double check the first time they got it wrong instead of wasting so much god damn time.
After waiting and waiting and waiting, my car was finally ready in mid September 2007. I paid up in full and drove off. I drove just as instructed and a few weeks later a loud tapping noise developed in the engine bay. I took it back as soon as I heard it ( early October 2007)Turns out the center two pistons had been slapping against the block and had caused more damage requiring the sleeves to be repaired and the pistons replaced.
I was assured everything would be taken care of under warranty, and I should have my car back mid January 2008. I called up after the Holiday break and apart from the engine being removed and torn down, NO work had been carried out. I spoke to <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> to enquire as to why this was, I was then informed that <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>is refusing to make any repairs unless they are paid for any further work carried out. They were absolutely certain that they carried out all repairs and upgrades to spec the first time and they were not at fault. Therefore they would require payment if the damage was to be repaired
I put it to <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details>, that if they had built the engine, and <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> only physically put it back in the car, who’s fault was it??? Their reply was “we don’t know what caused the piston slap, or who’s fault it was, we just know it wasn’t ours.” The engine is currently being examined by a third, independent engineer to pin point the failure. <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> has said if we can prove they were at fault, they will make an insurance claim and then make the necessary repairs. I have serious doubts however that after the engineer report things will go so smoothly.
They are a pack of dinosaurs who are too used to working on push rod V8s. I wouldn’t trust them with any car whatsoever. They are slack, have a very poor business ethic and havn’t the slightest clue when it comes to customer service. <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> has offered to pay for all parts, all <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> has to do is donate their labor to repair my engine. They outright refused to co-operate and will not take even the slightest bit of responsibility.
I have forked payment in full even though the build went $2,000 over the original quote. I still don’t have what I paid for, my car is still sitting in chasers workshop while months pass by. <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> should at least, from a customer service point of view, take up <E240 Edit: PM WhiteAP1 for details> offer and make the appropriate repairs. I am EXTREAMLY disappointed with their work and do not recommend them to anyone. Advice to all, stay the bloody hell away from them!!!!!!!
Negative light my ass, Thats exatly what happened. Why should these pricks go nameless. You should allow ppl to know so the same doesnt happen to them. Its not as if they can do anything legally. Its my opinion and recall of events!
The thread was created to find out about the experiences of those who had dealt with a certain workshop. I am posting those dealings.
thanks whiteAP1 now i know to stay away - ive pretty much found some better places anyhows,
TODA..
so u recommend staying 9.5:1, thats what many in the states run, although it as u would be aware its hard to see what cp the big teams run on their car, i had a suggestion made that the cp bump up to around the mid 10's - Which i was a bit worried for a big hp motor (this is gonna be a special motor with lots of research)
well overall the dart tall deck will be a definate but is it possible to make one to 84mm instead of 84.5? they come around high 83 untouched from the factory. just if i need to rebuild i can then go out to 84.5.
also pauter or carillos for boost for the tall deck option?
/\ Yes...
9.5:1 C/R is not that low comp for a turbo motor.
Realistically it's quite high, especially when compared to OEM turbo engines.
Idealy, you would run a flat top piston & modify the chambers to get the C/R right.
(That's a lot of work though)
Re rods, Pauter, Carrillo, Crower & Cunningham are all excellent products.
They will all produce a rod to suit your application.
Hope it works out for you. :)
Don't you "my ass" me or I'll kick your ass for you. You want to share your experience fine. I'm here to protect the interest of the forum.
Your post and experience are untouched except for names...People can PM you if they want the name.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteAP1
kool thanks toda 9:5 sounds good, for the had im thinking of going .5mm over and either a toda or ferrera package.
also are roller rockers elimminating vtec worth it? im thinking of going down this path?
thanks guys.
I forgot to add,Quote:
Originally Posted by EGB18CT
Don't worry too much about oversizes with the DART block,
As the sleeves are replacable. :thumbsup:
Re .5mm over, with 84mm+ bore, +0.5 or even +1.0mm works well.
You'll need to sort the porting out to match the larger valve size.
+0.5mm can re-use OEM seat in head.
+1.0mm you'll likley need new seats.
I'm not a fan of the US/NZ method of eliminating Vtec as I can't see the logic in turning a B-Series into an SR20.
Also, if this engine is going to see the street, it could be a bad idea.
Yeh, i knew it the Dart had replacable sleeves and it was closed deck so one of the reasons i wanted it along with others...
Motors not really going to see the street as the turbo set up that im thinking of using will be a bit to hardcore so to speak and the placement of it will be difficult to filter the air etc.. this will mostly be a track baby - so im not afraid to have an out there setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by grumpy rooster
Who would you be suggesting for SA?
Man have I gone through that sh!t (different shop)..... still waiting to send the papers away to fair trading over same thing but the engine head... they think they can fcuk up and its the clients fault... if only it was that easy to rip them off!Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteAP1