lol ICQuote:
Originally Posted by VTi_b0i
Where do you work?
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lol ICQuote:
Originally Posted by VTi_b0i
Where do you work?
i live in bossley park area, and work in bella vista, when im in the warehouse/office lol
so did someone learn how to put a rubber on yet?
Not yet :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Zilli
Smash then rained out just before our turn
Hows lunching at about 3000rpms from my first time?
on my normal 14inch stockies i lowered the psi to 22 and launched at around 3200rpm which got a 2.2 sixty footer.
i no our cars are heaps different but i hope that helps a bit
Ok
Finally ran
Got two runs with my car died mid track like it did few nights ago on the third :o
First run 14.8 @ 156kmh
Second Run 14.6 @ 158kmh
I just can't get the takeoffs right lol
nice work Luke ! your third run would of dropped another .1 or .2 :)
Why did it die?
Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Not sure, second time its happened
Its like hitting Rev limiter but I'm not
Might need a new fuel pump as I'm running on stock...
Thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Yeah the third run my takeoff was heaps better with not much wheel spin
shame that it had to happen on our race together lol
best of lick with rectifying the problem , hope to see you out there again soon car looks great !!
Where's Lyle when you need him.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
lmao, Jimmy right on the money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
And in all fairness, it was his first time, but mph don't lie.....14.6@98mph
what 60ft'r where you getting?
I give respect to Luke though, his done his shit without the shit talking. With a bit more practice you'll get better. Well done for getting out there.
Yeah my 60 were like 2.55 2.50 crapQuote:
Originally Posted by barefootbonzai
Also I'm running on 17" with a heavy body kit
What rpm you launching at? did u lower your front tyre pressure and raised the rear?
definitely room for improvement. once you get your 60ft'r down to 2.1 or 2.2 which is decent on real street tyres, you should definitely see low 14's or even a high 13 passQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
Seems like the Benjamins stock B18CR isn't doing too bad against the "130kw" D-Turbo.
Quote:
Originally Posted by barefootbonzai
I say nothing :) I let results speak for themselves. Consistant 100mph and 14.00's is enough said for the B series brigade :)
Luke is doing great...JUST to get out there ! MOAR of you sop shit talking and get those cars to the strip :)
so b series conversions are on par or better than d series turbo'sconversions?
good try mate any way
u will do better next time for sure good mph too
may be borrow some 15's
100MPH is very healthy.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Get those B and D series turbo cars out there to run. Don't be embrass.
Hope to see improvement in your times luke.
he needs some 15's in 4 stud 4x100 that will clear ITR front brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by 90LAN
Any thoughts ?
depends what itr brakes he has 96 spec or 98 specQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
96 spec most 15 will clear as the are the same as dc2 / eg6/ etc
98 spec he will have to run 15x7 and depending on offset will need a spacer
its 98 spec ~ and yup all honda rims in 4x100 even 14 inch will clear the 96 spec/eg6/ek4 brakes.Quote:
Originally Posted by 90LAN
Looks like he needs some aftermarket 15's
Most definitely room for improvement..
I didn't get one run right IMO but yeah things I need to improve
1. Raise the back coilovers as my car slops down at the back now the springs have settled.
2. Maybe remover the Down force Wing I have on the back?
3. 15" that would clear my ITR brakes.
4. Maybe even put my stock bumpers on but fuk that would be a pain in the ass..
5. Never wear steel caps for 1/4 :o
But all in all hella fun night :)
Yeah sorry man that was looking like a good little runQuote:
Originally Posted by SHW.70Y
ITR brakes fit under EK4 rims :)
Oh coolQuote:
Originally Posted by fatboyz39
Whos got two they want'a loan me lol
Oh I think LSD would help quiet a bit too..
Step One
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...70#post1777570
:thumbsup:
Just take the wing out for 1/4 mile purpose onlyQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
We did that to our EGK20A back in 2005 with spoon cf rear wing. , gain 2mph from taking it off
Hand to take off?Quote:
Originally Posted by EG5
I've tried before and from memoy was hard lol
Nice work mate! dam good for your first time.
Few things i would add (even though some may have been suggested)
*Buy some 15s and get some tyres on there with biggest profile as possible say 205 55/60. dc2 Fat 5s would be pretty good.
*Do some basic weight reduction. stuff thats easily removeable, but you still want to race your car in oem standard trim condition. So spair wheel, tools, a sub box? etc etc
* When Lauching a turbo car you actually want to lauch it spooled up as much as possible. In my experience launching at low held constant revs does not do this. Rev it agressively... then Full throttle on clutch drop. If your tyres are down to a nice low pressure you should have minimal wheel spin.
* Front damper Soft, Rear Damper Hard.
* (Might sound nooB-ish) Dont rev out your car to the point your bouceing off rev limiter, youd be surprised how much time you loose. Learn to change right before your rev cut. (assumeing your makeing your peak power close to your rev cut)
* Gear changes as quick as possibly. NA IMO doesnt really matter (As much) .. but the longer your shifts take in FI means the more pressure your looseing in your pipework. In a sence, ever time you do a slow shift, you loose all your 10psi of boost.. going back to 0psi. This means your power is going from 130wkw back to 70wkw. Then on your next gear engagement it will take a fraction of a second to build boost again. (hence going from 70wkw back to 130wkw)
* launches are most important. If you can get good launches / 60fts you would be surprised how much this improves your overall time.
Some of these things might seem small. But when lots of small percentages add up they equal something that does make a difference. Sometimes 1 - 2 seconds.
Questions
What MPH does it say on your time slip?
What do you mean your car was "dieing"
Did you make yourself launch on green? or did you take your time?
When you launched... do you actually have to wait for your boost to kick? or are you launching ON boost allready?
*** Remember you car only makes 130wkw at 10PSI... not at 0 PSI (makes 70wkw). so you want to keep it at full boost (or close to it) the WHOLE time your raceing. ie flat shifts (if your game) or quick shifts (practice) and very agressive launches (practice again).
IMO if you can Launch on boost.. rather then waiting for it... your MPH WILL get higher. And if you can put the power to the ground without breaking any traction this should bring down your 60foot. End result i believe mid to high 13.
I suppose Mr "Naturally Aspirated" a few pages back doesnt under this concept.
questions and comments welcome
Regards Lyle
4 x 10mm nutsQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
takes less than 2 minutes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Abit optimistic? Have to do so much thing's mention above to run a "decent" time.
As i said.. I BELIEVE... its not JUST one thing that leads to success. Its the combination of lots of small things that all add up to get the best results.
And no its not optimistic. Its been proven time and time again... just go search on honda-tech, D-series.org and turbod16. But i suppose we are in Australia... and well apparently to some people that changes everything.
I think it is near on impossible for luke to launch on boost with the tyres he is running,saw him everytime just sitting on the line spinning with what sounded like minimal boost from the return road.
Yeah I don't need any more power that's for sure lol Maybe less would help me at this point :pQuote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
Even when I didn't lunch at all I still got wheels spin in first and second!
I think wheels are the main problem, these Ling Longs have cracks in them after only two years so I'd say there are very hard rubber
Yes well. This is the point of a "Test & Tune"
To test your setups (find out its strengths and weaknesses).. in lukes case.
weaknesses - experience, power delivery and the unability to efficiently controll boost, excess weight
Then TUNE your setup (change / alter) to help remove this weaknesses. which i have stated above.
If luke cannot launch his car on full boost.. he needs a wheel and tyre setup that will alow him to do so.
Took my time and lunchedQuote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Lunching on a bit of boost
MPH 98.66
You gotta learn to peddle it. launch higher, ride the limiter. 1/4 in a NA and 1/4 in a turbo are totally differnet things.
Your MPH is a bit low, your 17s arnt helping that. Maybe the toda dyno is a bit optimistic? From the sounds of it, your having a ignition blowout or maybe a fueling issue. Get that sorted. But other then that, its to be expected on your first time out.
We can clearly see that ben has alot less weight. Making 100mph on a stock motor is an acheivement, but weight is the key. That and your 60ft, Drop .3 up top and u will drop .9 down the end of the track.
also not your MPH will drop once ur 60ft goes down.
Are u holding boost through till red-line yet? It seems like ur down on power. Or are your wheels really china spec, 16kgs each style?
china spec? you mean crap?Quote:
Originally Posted by Weq
Still no EBC is no but boost holds OK 10-11ish then about 9ish 6 ground on
keep trying. Get out there every week and practice. That is the key to achieving some nice ET's. People giving advice and etc is good, but its up to you to get out there and practice.
I've been reving out to 7200 on each run but my cam only makes power too 6800
Might change gears at 6700 yeah?
its alriteQuote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
my first time out i got 2.75 60 ft times
and a 1/4 mile time of 20's
-_____-''
pretty good effort practise makes perfect
Guys
Don't start this crap in my thread... or the mods will close it..
I never stated I could do better than anyone ells or whatever motors there running............
yeah sorry bro. it was your good mate that wanted to start shit with his retarted comments.
yup this is Lukes thread so lets keep it to his car and driving style.
Luke. Only way you can get better is more practice !
I havent changed anything the 4 WSID events i have run in my life. Exact same engine / chassis / wheels / tyres / height / tyre PSI etc. And all that has happened is that i am pulling more and more consistent numbers and MPH.
I now know where i am lacking in my driving and thats the launch. Not much tho...2.2's on actual street tyres is starting to push it.
But you are doing 2.4's on your crap tyres....as other said change that to something smaller and better then dont change anything. Just practice practice practice and you will get better.
Hey BenQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
I forgot to remember what my Coilovers were set on lol
What should I put em back too?
Whoa claymore! i thought you were gonna give me a rebuttle... but hell yeh thanks for the rep!... I guess it was a pretty "retarted" post. Not my fault some people dont know how a turbo works LOL!
Luke best change gears slightly before your rev cut...but also have a look at your dyno sheet and see where exactly your makeing all your max power.
Answer Luke
* What do you mean your car was dieing?
* When you launched did you have to wait for boost... or did you allready seem to be on it ?
* How were your shifts? sluggish or nice and quick? (you can usually tell by the sound of your BOV and how much air is escapeing). When you changed gears did you get any turbo lag right after engageing into your next gear?
(gforces pushing you back in your search when boost kicks in)
I was getting consistent low 2.1's last time on my tyres & no LSD.Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
I reckon u should be able to push deep into the 2.0's with your setup Ben.
And that will be your 13's.
However Luke remains pretty helpless trying to get boost off the line ,with those tyres,i reckon he'll max out at 2.2-2.3's.
why change b4 peak power not on the peak power or a bit past the peak power? If you change b4 peak power doesn't that mean your are not utilizing all of your 130kw?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Anyway by the sound of your runs, I would suggest you to use part throttle for first or maybe even second gear. It worked on me when I ran my car...
sorry mate i ment rev cut.... ill edit.
Hmm Anything other then WOT (full throttle) with FI usually means no boost at all. Best bet would be look into a "Anti-Lag" feature. I know some Hondata have this feature, but dont think so with the emanage. I think you can buy separate units that are designed specifially for "Anti-lag" launch.
Eg - Gizzmo Launch Controll (or something similar)
Basically allows you to hold your throttle and build bost up on the line.
Ie - You can actually look at your boost gauge and watch it creep up to your boost setting (while sitting stationary). In lukes case 10psi.
If funny you trying to act smart with all these posts. Yet all it proves is that how useless the powerband of the d-series turbo is, and by the sounds of things you need to be a professional F1 driver to get some decent times out of one.
Absorb up all the advice guys, you'll be good for 14's all day long just like Lyle.
Haha,luke will be just doing 2 burnouts,one in the pit & one on the start line,with the thing sitting there on a launch controller with full boost dialled up.
I cant even get my underpowered heap off the line with the LC set at 3000rpm.Its all about throttle control on street tyres
Mate i dont ACT smart, i try get my knowledge across to other people as easily and coherently as possible. I wont say something i dont know, agree with or backup... unlike some who chop and change their opinions more often then they change their jocks!
Im looking at it from a wide perspective and considering all options. It doesnt take half a brain to realise that there are a fair few more factors in FI setups then NA. Do you have half a brain duy?
If you actually cared about other people, and not just focused on TRYING to make a fool out of me. You would realise i have draged my car nearly 30 times. I have increased my times by nearly 2 seconds (very worst through to very best). I think this proves i may know atleast something about drag raceing (i still have much to learn too). Even though my car is limited to low 14s (satasfied with my limited setup).. your a fool to think that makes ME look retarted.
My advice can be used for people with 12,13,14,15 sec FI & NA cars. Other people have recognised this but your just to stuborn to go past your ego, and admit it (no surprise there).
Its ok mate.. maybe you should go back to "ALL MOTOR" where you belong, and take out your feelings on your signature in your true traditional style. For a person with such experience in drag raceing you advice to others is rubbish.
yeah i'm not gonna set by and let someone like yourself talk shit about my car, especially when it's actually achieved a lot in the honda scene in Australia. Don't forget you're the dumbass that said Luke's car will beat the time i ran over 2 years ago. If i was you i'd feel like a total dumb arse for makeing such claims just to be proven wrong.
and that's the only reason i'm posting, not here to give him advice on drag racing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CRXer
by LC if you mean Launch Control. "Launch control" and "Anti-lag" are 2 different features.
Launch controll is about lowering your rev limiter to your desired level (as im sure you allready know)
Anti-Lag is a Turbo only feature. Designed so you are able to build up your full boost stationary before you launch.
There is another world besides drag racing.
this is the only world that matter jimmy hehe...
Duy if your posting in here just to argu with me. The PM me or add me on MSN. Your car HAS (i agree) achieved alot in the honda scene in australia. Id never try ruin that.
Just remember that mate. It doesnt feel nice when people shit talk you car. Remember this convo next time your laying crap on someone elses car.
I stand by everything i say. I wont wake up in the morning and delete it. Simple reason luke did not pull a equal or better time is he was not able to sustain his 130wkw for 100% of his run, as well as failing deliver 100% of his 130wkw to the ground on launches/shifts(due to simple in-experience)
Your car made 120wkw at 0psi. This means you had 120wkw for 100%. As well as the experience to put it too the ground.
Simple Physics. All conditions equal. (as we are purely compareing setups). 130wkw in a lighter car will go faster then 120wkw in a heavier car.
Say what you want duy. If this were really about the topic at hand and not just trying to publically humilliate me and proove me wrong, you would actually discuss this privately. Rather then ruining lukes thred, as well as your own reputation.
fatboyz (i assume your name is jimmy). If your talking about circuit/track raceing, and that what we were discussing, then i wouldnt be fighting the point that im on about now.
Man some people are just thick. How is it possible for anyone to be at max power for 100% of the trip. If you had half a brain that would mean my car's dyno graph would be a straight line @ 120kw from 0rpm - 9000rpm.... um WRONG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
And since you're too thick to understand basic things, for his mph he is not really making 130kw's. Many have already pointed out that the dyno seems to be a happy one.
Some have pointed out it "may" be happy. But whos to say his was anymore/anyless accurate then your dyno readout?
By maximum power im talking about his full boost. (terminology) Hes not makeing 130wkw at 0,3,5,7 PSI is he? No its at 10psi. If hes launching on full boost, rather then 0 and haveing to build it up, as well shifting in a way that hes not looseing boost (and haveing to make it back up again)(Do you know what turbo-lag is?) Its going to be a little different. That is what i ment by his max power, and how it needs to be at that level 100% of his run.
I think your the thick one buddy. I thought you would know that drag raceing with FI setups and takeing into account the amount of time a car is on full boost vs 0psi/boost building, will cause major variations in MPH.
YES luke did 98MPH. YES that 98MPH maxed out with a decent launch may only be good for a low 14/high 13. But that was with his car on full boost for aprox (85%) of his run. Should it have been (100%) the MPH would have been alot higher.. hence representing his power figer. This is the concept i have been trying to get through to you. Mr Naturally Aspirated.
Cause we've already said it a million times, MPH doesn't lie. That's how we know it's a really high reading on his dyno, obviously you have problems understanding the concept.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
Once again, i'll rephase what you're trying to say... The setup he has, has a very narrow power band, which is not very useful in REAL life applications.
Luke, post up your dyno graph again.
lmao @ 100% of the time. It's not possible for any car to run @ 100% of it's max power all the time, boost or na.
LISTEN!
No its not possible for a car to run @ its peak power ALL the time.
It IS possible though to have a car be running at FULL BOOST 100% of the time.
Just like it is ALSO possible to have a car running NOT running at Full boost 100% of the time. Such as luke. Due to turbo lag on slow shifts and bad launches (just comeing down to in-experience).
So sorry that prooves your MPH garbage incorrect for FI anyway.
eg. my setup (yes i know its just a crappy 14sec setup like you keep saying like a broken record) over my 30 timeslips (that i all have here) all have MPH vareing from 91MPH to 100MPH. Exact same setup, tune, boost, poweroutput.
Yes i guess its all a big excuse. But end of the day its just the truth. Practice makes perfect, there is alot more left in lukes car then your Stubburn N/A mind can comprehend. Weather or not he gets to that level is a different story.
Seriously think you should do some reasearch on turbo lag if you want to keep pushing this point
hahahha yeah mph readings don't work for FI, just keep telling yourself it.
you're car either had some weight reduction, change in tyres, wheels or you're just a very random/inconsistant driver for your mph to be changing that much.
bed time hahahah.
End of the day turbo Lag is a big part in drag raceing. A factor that you dont have to deal with N/A that why you dont understand it.
MPH do have some indications but not if the car has stayed on different % boost levels over their duration of their run. run 1 on 80% of time in full boost vs run 2 100% of time in full boost.
No mate, dont tell me what my car has or hasnt had done. Same power output, same weight, wheels etc etc. Just Learning and getting better at drag raceing and learning to maximise the % of time my car stays at full boost for the duration on my runs.
First runs may only have been 70% .. but best runs were close to 90%
Dont worry i will draw you up a nice easy diagram for you to follow tomorro night. Bed for me now too.
ps. Just because MY car hasnt done a 13 doesnt mean my advice doesnt have merit, or do i NOT have the right to give it to people. If you think thats the case then your kidding yourself.
Yes,i know what anti-lag is,and since you are specifically talking about launching,it does fall under the category of launch controller.They are not 2 different features as such.They both limit the engine to a desired rpm by way of fuel cut for limiter only, &/or ignition cut for also having the ability to build boost via unburned fuel mix going off in the hot exhaust manifold.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sexc86
If u want to get technical,the gizzmo & such,are not proper anti-lag since they only achieve it via ignition cut.Proper anti-lag,involves seperate modes in the engine managment with completely different fuel & ignition maps reading off sensors such as TPS,MAP,clutch switch,etc to achieve anti-lag at any rpm or engine load.
Im also sure luke doesnt want the repercussions of running anti-lag,which can include reduced turbo life,dropped exhaust valves,severly reduced cat convertor life & more.Having said that,people are still using it on mildly tuned engines & getting away with it to certain extents,but the end results will come.
"launch controllers" also do not work with mild builds,you can do a much better job yourself.
It does sound awesome however & produces some nice flames without the cat in place.
BTW,u make driving & launching a front drive boosted car sound like some sort of black art,it really isnt that hard or different to an NA version,its not until u get to AWD's & large turbos that it gets tricky with boost.
Anyway,back on topic,
The turbo D, squatting for all its worth:p
http://i58.photobucket.com/albums/g2...250608_132.jpg
in na motors power band is only in the 5500(vtec) plus range
if u bog down at the track u will be out of this power band
so u will only be running at less than half of power
but drag racing has to many variables
so u can never be running at 100% eng power
in any set up that being na or turbo
in a boosted car ben,its just a little harder to modulate the throttle if u go instantly into too much wheelspin as boost doesnt back off as quickly as the NA variety.
but your right if u avoid too much wheelspin at the start its just like launching the NA,all about throttle control & a bit of clutch work if u underdone it.
slicks will fix all launching issues.
Not quite. LSD + slicks will fix MOST of his launching issues.
lol YeahQuote:
Originally Posted by grumpy rooster
Luke, have u looked up FI 1/4 FWD videos on the internet yet? My guess is that this is whats happening.
http://www.civictsi.com/Videos/Civic...sideCarRun.mpg
1st - wheelspin wheelspin shift
2nd - wheelspin wheelspin shift
3rd - bog bog bog bog boost traction on your way
4th traction end 1/4
U gotta modulate throttle, peddle the wheelspin and hookup 3rd in your powerband. Thats the key. Ds produce as much torque as horsepower. Bs are lucky to make half. Peak torque is around 4000-5000rpm. Launching at anything in the range will have the same effect. You got to peddle the wheelspin. It takes alot of practice.
Now go watch a NA FWD 1/4 mile video at the same ET region. Its alot less involved.
Go read:
http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ar...art-2-a-29058/
Your chinese spec tempe tyre combo is likely adding over 200kgs the the weight of your car. Along with taking longer to get into your powerband, causeing more lag, and less traction due to less sidewall.
Go read turboD16 in regards to 1/4mile pointers.
Oh and lastly, your boost falling off is probably the reason your hitting the MPH you are. At 10psi u should be trapping 100mph. 100mph is the key to 13's. That said, it was ur first time out, i would be happy with improving. Ive seen civics run 14.2@117mph.
This is the whole point i have been trying to make
All things equal 2 exact same cars, same power output and driver both forced induction.
With a forced induction setup there can be a massive variety of power outputs at any given rev range (within the turbos efficiency)
Eg 5000rpm @ 10psi may equal 120wkw
5000rpm @ 5psi may equal 110wkw
5000rpm @ 0psi may equal 90wkw
This is what i ment by constantly staying at your maxium power possible at all points in your rev rang (being at full boost). With NA this is different
Eg 5000rpm @ 0psi may equal 110wkw...
This is the only possible combination.
Launches with FI = launching on no boost or launching on full boost... completely diffferent.. as you are launching with different power capabilities.
Just because you are at 5000RPM doesnt mean your on full boost. You could be anywhere between 0psi and 10psi.
Launches on N/a = launching alwayes on 0psi. your never going to have any more power to utilise.
Now shifts. A slow shift with NA isnt that critical. All you loose is a little bit of time. A Slow shift with FI is COMPLETELY different. You loose your time AS WELL as all your boost power that you have built. This means for a fraction of a sec (depending on turbo size and boost pressure) it will need to re-build back to full boost. Meaning there are times after your shifts where your car is not running at its peak power (AT THAT POINT ON YOUR RPM).
So after 3 shifts and haveing to rebuild boost 3 times (all adding up time). This means you are no longer at your peak power (at all points on your rpm).
Ie you are NOT at your peak power RPM for 100% of you run.
Thats why MPH varies so much with FI setups as well as why you cannot predict as accurately what the setup is good for.
Anyone feel free to add comments or critism to this.
I stand by everything i have said, but i can admit that getting a cars FULL 1/4 potential time is alot easier from NA as to FI.
Lyle your making good points, just sometimes poorly worded (i suffer from the same syndrome). It makes you an easy target.
Yep ^ got no problem with that. But just because my ability to articulate my thoughts/knowledge isnt the best... doesnt mean the theory isnt sound.
Thats not aimed at you btw.
This is true. Even peg legging it, slicks makes things a no brainer. Stage, foot flat too the floor, preload, sidestep clutch. Hold the limiter, till your wheel speed matches your car speed, shift, do the same, shift, hookup and you are sitting at a 12 second pass.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
lyle u havent driven a b series na car on the track especially willowbank yet have u? i think u are wrong in this point
stickiest track in oz
hard to explain to some one who hasnt
i have own turbo cars b4 so i know the diffence between the two
and 4wd cars and rwds cars all turbos so i think i would know the difference
like i said at 0-5500 u have no power on the track and u bog down
similar to turbos having no boost or boost lag
its that simple vtec cars are tourque less below that power band
i think luke has to fix many things to get the times the car should be capable off
but it comes down to it having the d series running gear not been able to cope with all that extra power he has
like mention before what he needs to do and hopefully drop his times when he goes next time
but isnt a street car suppose to run on the track like how it is on the street ?
I have experience with:Quote:
Originally Posted by 90LAN
FWD NA Bseries / FI
FWD NA Dseries / FI
AWD Turbo
RWD NA/FI
They dont compare. Let alone the engine chractoristics of each platform.
2nd, 'D-series running gear'. Pull your head out. Stop commenting on subjects that are above your level. Go back to the lounge AND/OR peddling your wears.
so why does he need to upgrade to a new and lsd
would it be any good if he used the d series gearbox to drag
any way thats the time he got so no point arguing about it
just has to do better next time
maybe u should pull your finger out mate