Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskoss
Yeah i got a Da spare Bonnet!
it has a few dints though?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chriskoss
Yeah i got a Da spare Bonnet!
it has a few dints though?
Yeah its a OBD1 i want to tune it for track use & just drive it as a daily...Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man
Do you go any suggestions for me places to go or how much?
You messaged AdapTronic? (the traders here)
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=123
Mate had his Turbo'd Civic tuned and they did a good job.
Im puting a B16A in my DA9 cos i really want a DA6 but its a hassel to import one i was in japan recently trying to find one very frustrating and wondering will the standard DA9 engine mounts be ok for the B16A
if i recall correctly u need the front lower cross member from DA6..coz the engine mount of that is a little different...
yes that is correct, i got a half cut of ada6 when i did my conversion and changed the front crossmember over. i am pretty sure the back one was the same as the b18a mount.
Thanks hey when u did your conversion was it a difficult process
If you're going to put a B16 in it, get the proper JDM b16 that came in the DA's if you can. Just my 2c.
Yeah im planning to but its going to involve another trip to japan to get the side moulding and mugen kit and engine ive already got the gauge cluster that goes in nxt week
or look for an old/wrecked EF?
standard da9 engine mount will not fit b16a.better off get a da6 front cut, everything bolt on,and youll get the nice jdm climate control and 8000rpm dash.
9500rpm
but i would suggest stick with the audm aircon...the climate control sks..
me old one
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...A9interior.jpg
yer it was a bit as i had to change over the entire front harness to have everything plug and play. pulling the whole dash out and changing the gear over was the most time consuming.did it in a weekend with help from a mate. he did the mechanical part and i did the electricals.
note that the extractor flange that bolts to the exhaust is the oposite way to the da9. will need to change the cat if over if the bolts arent rusted on.
my advise though..honestly..get b18c...the 1.6 is fun..but not quite enough
by the way...if u r new u probably havent heard of this www.dacrew-au.com
Ive heard of it but havnt checked it out i will though
I want the 1.6 after i drove A DA6 in japan
what i mean is redline at 8000rpm instead of 7000.i dont really like the normal ac knob,thats why i swaped the whole thing over.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spoon DA9R
i recently bought innovative engine mounts for my da. the transmission and the front mounts went in no problem but the side mount doesnt fit. its too long to line up with the old bolt holes and also the bushing is so wide it hardly fits in the bracket on the engine. has anyone had this problem? can i make it fit?
well u could cut it down but then it might not fit on the box coz u said it to long id contact innovative u might have the wrong mount.. its unlikely but its possible
i went for a ride in a b18cr 98 spec in a da9. it was not bad but i would get bored of it. i think the same for b16s there a heavier car then the eg. u prob wont really get much more from it then the b18a for all ur work.
ps. someone joined dacrew i fixed the new members so they can post (by posting not logged in) and they e-mailed me i replied but havent heard back can they please contact me i cant find ur user name
hey yeh i had a similar prob but the opposite for some reason the side engine mounts r diffQuote:
Originally Posted by Pezman
the replacement i got was too small so i just made some spacer, you could try chopping it or bursons sell the big one idk why there diff, mines a series 2
The passenger side engine mount is different between the 90-91 and 92-93 models - perhaps this was a factor?
I've got a set of Innovative mounts but I'm yet to even test fit them - here's to hoping they work out.
ive got an 89 da and i bought the mounts for 90-91 ls. they should still be the same series?Quote:
Originally Posted by string
plus its only about 5mm too long but it just doesnt line up. maybe i could redrill the mount but im kinda peed cos it doesnt fit in the first place
yeh i got a 1992, however that was the mount that was under the 1992 one so yeh
The every day b16s just don't have enough guts, if you get the proper DA b16 then its okay, or the uber rare ones that came with 125k, otherwise just stick to B18.
b20 or h22a is the only swap that makes much sense
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jon_51
Go for H22a would be better but depends on what you want to do with it..
Although the Da9 was mainly suited to fit any B-Series engine. Well the h22a would be good but I have not seen anyone or heard anyone slammed a K-Series on Da9 yet :cool:
not in australia. but...Quote:
Originally Posted by wahyu4ever
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread...&highlight=DA6
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4.../FrontView.jpg
^ That is a right hand drive too....
and another one-
http://www.g2ic.com/forums/showthrea...highlight=k20a
that'll set u back almost 10k....just seems like kinda a waste of money...lol
I was going to H swap mine, it'd be sweet, I can sense it would be a difficult but rewarding project. I'm just going boost.
he ended up selling that pretty cheap didn't he?Quote:
Originally Posted by wkdteg
I would've loved to have rebirthed that here. lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by wkdteg
Ohh OMG!!
This is one SEXY Da9!!
HANDS DOWN...:cool:
if you love your da that much why not K, but i would stick to a b18 or turbo, h22 just doesnt do it for me, not enough power for the liters and the weight you put on the front
I agree... bost that B18.. not worth the effort for such ship-anchorage at the front, it'd handle like a 4wd
I have personal experience with a b16a turbo, allmotor b18c, allmotor h22 and hands down the h22 n/a was best.
You need first hand experience before you make such calls
Saying that, I have no idea about k20 or k24's just yet
Quote:
Originally Posted by stocky
Yeah K-Series would be good but could only afford a B18c setup atm :o
h22 doesn't weigh much more then a b-series motor.
calling it a ship anchor is a bit overboard.
I stand by my metaphor :P hhahhaa
Im leaving for Japan in 3 weeks 2 look for my Gen3 B16a and get wheels for the DA
Wow thats dedication, flying over to the mother land to look for jdm parts ahha
Good luck and safe travels
The h22 block+gb weighs 16kg more than an equivalent b16 block+gb (source: honda-tech).
A turbo with manifold and associated gear will weigh almost 16kg, especially with a cast iron manifold. What's worse is that all of this weight is placed further in front of the front axles in comparison to a H swap.
Now you go and boost your b18 and be outhandled by a boat anchor.
hey guys, big prob with car well basicly it doesnt idle, it just drops and stalls, pretty sure thats the iac valve has died, however the main problem being is that its lost all power, if u floor it, it just accelerates rele rele slowly and makes a loud air noise, sort of like the fuel was cut off any idea which valve was doing this, i reset the ecu made no diff, ill do an error check on the ecu tomorrow see what comes out, just seeing what you guys think
Thanks
dnt_cryQuote:
Originally Posted by stocky
was actually just a joke but yeah, cool story bro
hey fellaz
had a problem for the first time with my da saturday.
Went to start it, just kept cranking over but wouldnt fire up, checked all the ignition leads n dizzy, tried again same thing, this time i went over made sure most wiring connections were clipped in properly, tried again, fired up for a split second then died, moved a few things round cranked it no fire, left it for a minute or two whilst praying it wasnt the fuel pump, cranked it again... fired up n stayed on.
later that day happened again at the servo, but this time after the same routine was followed after like 2 crank attempts, nothing, turn the key, nothing. okay that had me totally stumped, battery and starter are fine, they didnt tick like when you try too much and drain the battery, reds were on strong too, called my mechanic mate down, he checked it out, checked a relay for the alarm, tried to start it, fired up first go, asked him what he did and he swears he didnt touch anything, no problem since knock on wood...
any ideas? anybody had similar problems...
Happened to me once, just misfiring. If it happens again, check for oil or water on/near your spark plugs, also check the dizzy with a multimetre, maybe the ignition coil is on its way out, normally if its going it will struggle to start and die randomly while running
ahhh k will keep an eye on that...
cheers
Is it after you start it cold drive it for a short period and stop and then it won't start again? I'm 99% certain its the main fuel relay, its the most common problem in Da's. They were badly soldered so you can either replace it, or pull it out and just resolder the connections, Google it and you should be able to find a picture showing where it is and what the badly soldered connections look like.
+1 main relay. 99% definate
google a diy fix it yourself with a bit of flux and solder.
or i think you can get a new relay from honda for like $130ish.
the way you can tell is that you won't hear the fuel pump prime and that yellow light on your dash will stay on. fix it before it strands you somewhere. it will get worse with summer coming on too.
The yellow light won't always stay on.
Main relays are notorious for blowing in our car. Check your connections.
:o ah fair enough. when mine went thats how I knew it wouldn't start no matter how much you cranked it.Quote:
Originally Posted by gumbs
Anyone got a spare Front Strut (the one that sits on the engine)?
It seems myn doesnt have it.. do DA9's even have them?
any melb da here free this sat?
Stock, no. But front strut bars from EG-DC-EK will fit, I got the Ultra-racing strutbar for 250. I have another aftermarket aluminium one for 50 bucks if your interested, PM me and ill send you pixQuote:
Originally Posted by slimx
pm sent
i got an EG one and it doesn't fit properly.. blows.
Some do some don't.. myne does
hey whats the biggest throttle body to put onto our b18a, i need to replace mine, so yeh thought might upgrade when im at it
I can put mine on, but it makes the car vibrate like CRAZY to the point that it only lasted 2 days on the car. It touches on the idle control dashpot.
Hey
Im curious about coilovers, Do i just order a set for a dc2r or do we need something else?
Ive got a set of Dc2r lca on standby just incase.
You will need the front shock forks from any DC2/4/EG (in addition to the DC2R rear LCAs).
you can go up to about 70mm if you have a big turbo etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
If you have no other mods or are not looking at tuning etc then you may as well just stay standard. why do you need to replace it?
base idle adjust has seized up and its throwing errors, so thought id get a bigger one too, ive got a extractors and advanced cam gears atm, whats the biggest advantage i could get, im not looking to go turbo, however i may look into new ecu and stuffQuote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
hi guys um blew up my b18b in my da9 now looking 4 a another b18 A or B. but am also looking into b20 conversion any one no of this done ?
but if u change to b20 u'll have to change ur userID...hahha
not sure about b20 but i dont think it'll be much harder than b16a, b18c, b18b, h22a, i've known some DA owners in the past that has done all those...except i never met one with b20..interesting
I'd go B20 bottom end + a vtec head, to get the most out of the motor, which it sounds like the kind of thing you're into :P
but if u go non vtec for a quick upgrade no mods just bolt the head on
how about...b20 bottom...b18a or b head...would that work? will be cheap...and better than b18a?
now we are just making sht up
what u mean makin sht up? thats what id do to my car
its quick and easy not to mention cheap. with benefits of bigger displacement
It's quicker, easier and cheaper to to stick with the B20 head.
Just bolt in the B20 and you can upgrade the head later if you want to.
shouldnt cost much more than just putting in a replacement B18.
My point was that a B18A/B head isn't an upgrade.
sorry i wasnt explaining myself i mean use the stock b20 and then put the b18a manifold and exhaust on it, because the cams r better on the b20 aswell
Hey guys just curious for our Integra's DA9's, im trying to buy some Xenon globes off ebay but they keep asking WHAT KIND of globe and .. im not sure how to tell?
Does anyone know like what its called.. the actual name of the globe? (model or whatever..)
Stock globes are H4H, retarded size.
Dude
If you want abit of power this is what i would do, just keep your b18 bottom if its not blown yet and just find a B16a Vtec head. Slap them together trust me on this one the thing will scream!! but might need someone to work on your oil lines to make it work
ive seen this done its cheaper if you do it right, Plus you dont need to change your vin on your car.
+1:thumbsup:
on the other hand the standard B20 off CRV compared to B18 really not much difference
what bout the saying of theres no replacement for displacement.
Similar peak power (i.e. the torque drops off earlier with the B20) but I bet the extra torque of the 2L kicks arse for driving around town. I'll let you all know the difference in a couple of weeks when I finish my B20VTEC with B16 gearbox.
Frankenstein Mod ->> NiceQuote:
Originally Posted by string
btw are you going to fully rebuild the motor because its only worth doing if you do it that way. its just ive seen them done before but smoked not long after!
Stock block, stock B16 head with GSR cams. I had the head, oil lines and studs from an old LS/VTEC so it was only a $500 investment to bump up to 2L. The primary interest is the extra torque from the 2L block, combined with the extra torque from the shorter 2-5 gears of the B16 box. At Wakefield I feel like I need a little more oomph going up the hill from turn 2, and especially after the fish-hook.
Now I've spent many times more than the $500 on the gearbox, oem pumps, seals, gaskets, LSD and all the good stuff so you might ask, why not spend another $500 on some high compression pistons? Well outright power is not my concern - overall reliability and ease of tuning is. You've driven a stock B18A - it doesn't need much extra to push it from the "almost" to the "fun" category.
I'm not worried about 'smoking' anything - setting the rev limit in the low 7000rpm range, depending on how it feels falling back.
You can try to argue that it's not worth it, but then the onus is on you to provide a cheaper way to get more power. Rough (and very conservative) estimations yield an increase of 25% in area under the curve from rev-limiter to the fallback rpm in each gear - should be worth a good few seconds at Wakefield, and hopefully a lot more fun.