buy a jazz
i get around 9l per 100 in suburbs. 7l per 100 freewaying. i wouldnt say thats terrible anyhow.
gears are short but i just shift at 3k. still pulls enough to keep up with traffic in every gear
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buy a jazz
i get around 9l per 100 in suburbs. 7l per 100 freewaying. i wouldnt say thats terrible anyhow.
gears are short but i just shift at 3k. still pulls enough to keep up with traffic in every gear
Oh okay.
Yeah I find that its got enough power to maintain speed through low revs in every gear. Thought it was just mine.
I'm looking at 11L/100km. But I just check my tire pressures. They're @ 23ish psi. :(
since you just got the car, probably a good idea if you havent already to change all fluids, filters, plugs etc
Dealer said it was serviced already. Either way I have a service from him next at no charge.
Speaking of services anyone know where I can get the service schedule for my ep3?
Either use the UKDM ep3 service schedule or the audm dc5r. pretty similar anyway
jdm ep3 dont think it came out in english, although i may be wrong
Sweet thanks manQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Has anyone had experience with replacing the shifter bushes? How much of an improvement is it?
Not sure about the bushes, but a lot of EP3 owners go for MTEC shifter springs. They're roughly $50, supposed to reduce slop and make shifting more direct. I'm going to be putting some in pretty soon, even though I have no problems with the sloppy stock shifter
There's definitely nothing wrong with the stock shifter, I'm just wandering if any worth while improvements exist.
I'll report back with my thoughts on mtec race springs ;)
The shifter base bushings makes shifting feel really direct, almost like that bolt rifle action haha. It takes out that mushy feel when you shift. The shifter cable bushings imo didn't make much of a difference; however I did find those billet shifter cable bushings tend to seize and have some resistance when shifting, i didn't like it at all. I recommend going with delrin material or hybrid racing/tegiwa's cable billet bushings with the ball bearings in it.
As for the mtec race springs, all i noticed was that it takes more effort to shift into reverse. Especially if your shifter looks like a chode with a countersunk gear knob lol
I would recommend the tegiwa short shifter adapter, along with the shifter base and cable bushings and mtec springs. All that really tightens up the shifting and is defs worth it. Especially for those who get lots of 2nd and 3rd gear grinds.
dat chode
Anyone got a belt auto tensioner assembly I can buy?
I think mines starting to shit itself. Can see ir bouncing aroun. Everytime I start the car cold is squeals like an old volvo and when I drive sounds like there's crickets my hood
anyone here know how much it will cost to repair/replace the driver side window motor?
mines not working atm,
just need a rough estimate
Where to buy Hondata thermal gasket for RRC?
Just want to confirm, do dc5 coilovers fit onto our ep3s?
They need modification I think
Kreston try eBay mate
Thought so, does anyone know what needs to be modified by any chance? Thanks though
You'll need DC5 outer tie rod ends and have to shim down the rear coilover bushings to get it to fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
Ahh thanks man sounds like too much effort haha
Just wondering, how loose is ep3r rear end when the road is wet? I'm talking about when you actually take corner not driving straight.
Is it normal for the car rear end to step out when it's wet.. say 90 degrees corner at about 40-50 km/h
It's not, iv done it. Just buy dc5 tie rod ends, and sand back about 2mm of the rear coilover eyeletQuote:
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
Only because you already had the tie rods! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by dnapol
Not sure why you'd be taking a 90 degree corner at 40-50km/h in the wet on the roads? Slow down and this won't be an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by eriktufa
totally agree. In the dry maybe but not in the wet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Well if price wise is worth it then I just might, how much r the tie rods?Quote:
Originally Posted by dnapol
It didn't sound and look normal but if you say it's too fast I'll try to keep the speed lower then. I thought it's just how the car behave. Tyres are about 500km old as well.
u need AD08R instead of Federal tyres to take 90 deg corner at 40-50kmph....
Are you using those? Seems everyone is on the AD08 bandwagon at the moment, interested to see how they are for daily driving because my RE11's are pretty down on tread now.Quote:
Originally Posted by wuism
Hardrace sell DC5 tie rod ends brand new for $85, hereQuote:
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
What are the stock wheel specifications?
Most say 17x7 +45. Just to clarify.
correctoQuote:
Originally Posted by mryangtastic
anyone know the weight of the stock suspension on the ep3r?
Ok cleaning my car n for reason decided to remove the part of my dash where the handbrake is and pocket etc.
And I've encountered this plug, does anyone have any idea what it's used for?
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/23/beve8a2u.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/23/a3yhe5ed.jpg
It's defs not oem, try tracing the wires and see what they're connected to, could be the previous owner had gauges? (Ground, power, illuminate and sensor)Quote:
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
Secret turbo switch maybe
Thanks man yeah I tried I pretty much have to pull out the head deck n all to continue tracing it, was too much effort at the time haha
I've got some DC5 tein monoflex + DC5R tie rod ends for sale. Coilovers will need the lower hub mount replaced though.Quote:
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
Guys I've got a problem that I've been trying to fix on my 02 EP3R for a very long time now. The whole EP3 suspension set up is headache....
Every time VTEC hits, my steering just goes unstable, shaking left and right even when I'm trying to keep it going straight. It's almost like abnormal torque/bump steer!
This started happening ever since I got new wheels fitted and adjusted the height.
At the moment
I'm running BC BR coilovers + Todd's Adjustable Tie Rods.
WHEEL SPECS:
Front - 17x9+35 225/45 w/ -1.5 camber
Rears - 17x8+32 215/40 w/ -2.6/-2.1 camber
At first, a mechanic told me my front tyres were pretty worn out so I thought I'd go with some brand new pair of Nankang NS2R Street Edition but it didn't help as much.
THIS PROBLEM NEVER HAPPENED when I was running my stockies so I tried putting them back on earlier today (still plenty of tread all around) and it didn't help, if anything it was somehow worse?
Here's an attachment of my latest wheel alignment details
http://s16.postimg.org/5onczkkvp/wheel_adjustment.jpg
I've got -1.5 camber at the fronts from the adjustable BC BR coils
AND
-2.6/-2.1 natural camber at the rears
Could it be the camber is way off at the rears compared to the front? Would Rear Camber Arms solve this problem? OR Worn steering rack maybe?
Please give me some feedbacks and assistance!
i've been told some toe in at the front will help off the line take offs, and ideally you'd want more camber on the front than the rears. Rear camber arms would be a good idea since the natural camber is compromising your handling performance anyway. I just got my alignment yesterday and it was all out of whack, but after that it felt like a breeze to drive again. Turns feel more positive and predictable
I'm running same front camber as yours but my rear is -2 cant remember my toe setting but its pretty close to 0. How low is your car?
It's not that low. Prob like an inch or more thread left on the coils.
It's about an inch above the tyres all around.
Try upgrading your tie rod ends, that should help.
My EP does that too, but it's not really bad. Only time it was really bad was the first time I took it for a spin after installing my engine mounts. When it hit vtec, it steered my into the opposite lane!
I also notice it gets worse as you go up in wheel/tyre width. On my stock wheels, it's pretty normal, 205/45/17. On my 17x9 regamasters it's probably the worst, 215/45/17.
I recently change from a 16x8 185/55/16, to a 16x8.5 205/50/16 and notice it is more twitchy when accelerating through vtec. Again, it's not that bad.
Try changing your front wheels back to stock if you can, see if it goes away. That way you can test and rule out if it's and alignment issue or if something is broken/worn.
Btw, I'm currently running a bit of toe out in the front. Zero toe in the rear. Around -3.0 front, -5.0 rear camber.
I chucked back on my stockies last night (215/45/17 all around) and it was still pulling the opposite way on VTEC.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I'm currently running zero toe all around.
Ill try changing the tie rod ends to some brand new ones but is there anything else I can do before that?
The only other mods I have up front are roll centre adjuster, aftermarket lca bushes and camber bolts. Which were added to refine my setup and help with the alignment.
Can't really suggest anything else, as that's all I've tried so far. As previously mentioned, mine isn't too bad. Hence why I haven't look into it any further. Kind of feels like when you drive on tram tracks, but not as bad as that.
You can try checking your rod ends for any abnormal play.
Have you noticed any clunking in the steering lately? i.e. Driving over low speed bumps, pot holes, undulating surfaces.
just took my rear folding seats out and found that they were very rusty behind the upholstery at the back of them :(
Was it much effort? I've been wanting to remove mine tooQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
And rust damn I might just have to check mine
Hey guys, if anyone is looking at buying an EP3R that's been fastidiously maintained and has about 110k on the clock, drop me a line. Considering an upgrade.
What are you looking to upgrade to?
Looking at a Lexus ISF or similar, not 100% sure just yet, but I'm leaning that way at the minute.
Baller! I'd love a c63 amgQuote:
Originally Posted by -JC-
Wasn't hard just the bolts that hold the seats down are abit awkward to get to. A 12mm and 10mm spanner is all you needQuote:
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
Me too man, but I can't justify the extra cost over an ISF. I also like my cars pretty rare (I do have an EP3 remember) so the ISF kinda fits the bill.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Having said that, I am not in the market just yet, so who knows what else may come up.
Problem: Every time the EP3 enters and exits my car port, the b-pipe scrapes.
Solution: Custom b-pipe made up, with greater ground clearance. Perhaps no central muffler?
I'm new to playing with cars, so I'd like to know if this practice is common or not. I just thought of it as an effective solution.
It's the cat and just behind the cat where it scrapes - start of b pipe
You can get rid of the middle resonator and get a custom b-pipe but there are several issues you have to be careful of.Quote:
Originally Posted by mryangtastic
1. It may drone if you get rid of the resonator
2. If the b pipe is too close to the body, it may hit it under load.
Does anyone on this forum know much about the purple 2005 ep3 in QLD on carsales?
Was wanting to know if it would be worth flying up to QLD to inspect it?
I've met the guy a few times, he's pretty cool but all I know is it has had a bit of work to it. The guy works for 999 automotive if uve ever heard of them before and it's a pretty clean carQuote:
Originally Posted by flop101
thanks for the info. Will call him up today and see what the reason for the respray.Quote:
Originally Posted by latinstyle69
The one in midnight purple? Larry is a good guy, he's a mate of mine and I can tell you that k24 engine in it is fresh with super low kms and legit parts. Reason for re spray was cause of small accident at Mt nebo; but his car was still pretty straight and was repaired at a very reputable body shop at coopers plains as far as I remember.Quote:
Originally Posted by mryangtastic
some people use oval b pipes to get a little bit more clearance tooQuote:
Originally Posted by mryangtastic
Thanks for clearing that up. According to Larry the the re spray was due to him liking purple. I asked about the accident you mentioned and he denied it (no suprise). The k24 engine its got in it isnt super low kms, its got about 90, 000km on it now.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Any other information would he great. Thanks
Haha don't take my word for it tho this is based of what I heard as well but I've seen the car in person and it's pretty well maintainedQuote:
Originally Posted by flop101
Guys, I was after some help. Took the EP3 to Wakefield this weekend and found that I just could not get traction at the back wheels. If I pushed hard into a corner it would oversteer to the point where I could not regain traction and would spin out. I lost 7 seconds from my best lap which was back in 2012. Changes since then are alignment and tyres. I'm running BC BR coilovers. Experimenting with the dampening settings didn't help. Removing the rear sway bar helped slightly???
The change in tyres should not have made a difference. Changed from Kuhmo KU32s to Hankook RS3s.
I think it might have something to do with the rear toe setting. It was 12' toe in but I changed it to 2.5' toe in.
Anyone got any ideas? Thinking I might take it to Heasman Steering to get a decent wheel alignment done and ask them to do some checks.
Azz86, my 2 most recent track settings were:
Front camber: -3.0
Front toe: -1mm total toe out
Rear camber: -1.5
Rear toe: 3.0mm total toe in
Similar/same suspension setup to yours. BR BC coilovers, set at maximum low, fronts were set to full stiff, rears were set to 7 clicks from the stiffest setting.
Tyres: RE55s, 225/45 & 215/45 16
Other mods: whiteline swaybar, rear camber arms, front camber bolts, front RCA, front LCA bushes, todds tie rods, akom inverted ends.
The above toe in setting was much better to a previous setting where the only difference was the rear toe was set to zero. The previous zero rear toe setting the car was a bit twitchy in the rear when entering the corners too hot. A few oversteering incidences and one spin out in that particular outting.
The rear toe in setting the car was more neutral, only very minimal oversteer if I was really pushing it. Allowed me to PB at sandown with a 1:29.3864, down from 1:31:58. I played more with the tyre pressures in the most recent outting. All the other mods and alignment settings were the same.
Previous PB set with the zero toe setup was 1:35.4722, running A048's 245/40 & 225/45 17's. Mods that were different, no gruppe m, stock rear swaybar, stock front RCA/LCA.
I'd play around with your rear toe for now, put the swaybar back in. Then play around with the rear dampening settings again. Also look at tyre pressures.
What camber settings are you running in the front & rear?
Thanks Mike. I was hoping you would weigh in here. Been a long time reader of your build thread :thumbsup:
Front camber: -0.75 degrees
Front toe: 0.5mm total toe in
Rear camber: -1.30 degrees
Rear toe: 0.25mm total toe in
I had a run at Sydney Motorsport Park South Circuit late last year with these same settings. Had a pretty good day being just slightly slower than the Evo crowd but still lost the back end twice. Makes me wonder if I could get better with the proper wheel alignment.
Had a good look under the car this afternoon. Everything appears to be in perfect condition. Nothing obvious. Also noticed the car has some kind of after market tie rods which I didn't know about. Really think it is alignment related. Keen to get it fixed.
I'll have a play around and see if I can get any improvement. My last wheel alignment was with a home wheel alignment kit so it would be nice to actually take it to a professional.
Thanks again :thumbsup:
Anytime Azz86. A long time reader :thumbsup: nice!
I'd also try dialling some more front camber, if you are able to for your next outting. If your camber tops are aready maxed out, you could look into camber bolts. Bearing in mind your stock tie rods will run out of adjustment the more negative you go.
I'd also change the front toe setting to run slight toe out, rather then toe in.
do you have a build thread for your 180? link?Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Here you go:Quote:
Originally Posted by integraR
http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index...ic=417218&st=0
Wasn't too sure if it still existed :p
RPS.13 I saw your car yesterday in the city near Lygon street, looking mint!
Thanks viett!Quote:
Originally Posted by viett
just curious what's the reason for the switch to ep from 180sxQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I was sick of getting defected in the 180, plus it was getting a bit dated.Quote:
Originally Posted by integraR
Thanks again for your help. I'll make some adjustments soon. Replacing the radiator this weekend. The damn thing cracked somehow....Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I checked the tie rods and they aren't stock so should be right with adjustments. The camber tops are roughly in the centre so should be able to adjust that as well.
has anyone fitted oem foglights with the mugen lip on? heard you have to cut either the lip or the foglight housing dunno which i should cut haha
Hey everyone. So I just did a service and noticed that the new Honda FEO "ultra" is labeled API SM and the older FEO is labelled API SL.
Are they compatible? I've used the whole ultra bottle and was wondering if it's safe to refill with the original FEO.http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/6y4e9ymu.jpg
SM has added additives to decrease wear and replaces SL
Thanks, mate. So it'll be safe to use the SL for top ups? There's still 3 litres or so and I don't really want to throw it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/03/ytumyja5.jpg
Anyone know if this ecu is the right Kpro v3 for the ep3?
I'm guessing it at cause the price is so cheap to what they sell for in Oz
"customer supplied ECU"Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
it doesnt include the ecu. only kpro board.
Ahh full set is 1320usd. . Make sense now