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avoid edward lee
edward lee got good videos doe
Hahahahhaa i love Edward lee videos!!!!
Hey guys cheers for the feedback. Yeah I've been doing some communication with Phil Lee and it just seems a bit odd at times. He's very keen to discuss details over the phone but all I want are straight facts in black and white (email) : ) He has an orange facelift EP3 at the moment. It looks awful! : ) :eek: Iron Chef has been very helpful so far.
Oh god...Quote:
Originally Posted by paddy30
Photographic memory kicking in.
FUUUUUUUU MY EYEEES!!!
Hi guys, can anyone confirm that these dc5 sway bars are the part numbers for cusco sway bars that fit ep3?
322 311 A25 - Front Sway Bar
322 311 B25 - Rear Sway Bar
Haaaa. Bright orange with black in the centre of the bonnet!:thumbdwn:Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
Red te37 on EP3
What do you guys think?
oh btw does anyone know any good power coat-er in VIC?
lower control arms need replacing.
where can i get them locally?
will the civic EU ones or DC5 fit?
DC5 ones have different bolt pattern, not sure about EUQuote:
Originally Posted by MarkO1995
just get some aftermarket hardrace/skunk2/function7s
U can get hard race ones from jdmyard. F7 is the bomb though ! Make sure u get ep3 ones ..as una91 said, diff bolt pattern from dc5.
anyone here done k20/k24 with there ep3? im looking of doing a kfrank
or working the k20 motor instead of kfrank less costly and more reliable?
Have heard good things about GD Sandblasting & Powder Coating in east side melb, think around $80 per wheel.Quote:
Originally Posted by im_visvim
Better off going k24 then doing internals. Internals can come later after k24.Quote:
Originally Posted by pengypengy
...Quote:
Originally Posted by DRMZON
Better of buying K24 on the side and building bottom end. Once bottom end ready, pull out the k20 service head, Supertech combo wombo + cams.
Install and tune.
Well mate that's your opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Money wise going k24 is cheaper. I'm sure if you take that into account the k24 would be a better option. How much do 2.4 blocks go for? I've seen good ones go for around the 1k mark even cheaper.
You confuse me.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRMZON
My way is the cheapest, least down time of him not having a car.
Do it once, do it right.
You buy k24 block, rebuild it - w/e that maybe. OEM wit just new rings, new oil/water, bearings etc etc all the up to rods high comp pistons.
Once your k24 block is ready, you remove your k20. Take the head apart and get it serviced.
Then install the head on the k24 block and install into your car.
If your talking about straight swap k20a for a K24a3. Then I think your confused yourself. Cos that's not worth the money or effort.
They both make 147kW, k24 makes more tq, but k20 has true vtec + 50deg VTC. I know which one I'd stay with.
once again your opinion. And I respect it.Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
I will agree with you on building a bottom end in the side and doing it right once. Most people don't usually want todo that and wait and build over time. Putting a k24 block is easiest way to make very good gains quickly. But once again that's my opinion.Quote:
Originally Posted by amant02
R u trying to tell me, you have swapped a k20a for a k24 in your car?Quote:
Originally Posted by DRMZON
No I did not say that lolQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
Ill be honest, I dont think that guy has any idea what his doing.
Pengy that is.
He made another tread asking how much to boost. Wait till he figures out cost for a fully built k24.
He might sell his EP3R lol.
Ahh I see lolQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
i decide to do a oem(internals/rebuild) k24 k frank
Ooooooflarooooooosh!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by pengypengy
Are you setting goals with the frank build? Or is it too early?
haven't thought of any goals with the frank build as yetQuote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
It'll be sicker then aids, dun yew worreh.
hey mate was this the one on carsales not too long ago? going for around 13k?Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
Title was something like: "Freshly imported"
has around 45k on the clock?
lolololololol, no this one was not the one you're referring to.Quote:
Originally Posted by mercury
Hey guys.
Just purchase a cusco sway bar for me EP3,
was wondering should i get new endlinks for the swaybar?
like it it recommended?
It's not required but I'd recommend it because the original end links are the biggest pain in the arse to remove so it'll make it easier in future if u wanted to part out or adjust it etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Thanks for that!Quote:
Originally Posted by doosra
new end links it is then!
has anyone here done any chassis body brace mods on their EP3?
if so, what brand were they?
I'm planning on get something done but just not sure what is out there
oh wait chassis bracing.... idunno if really needed unless you race car.
Strut bars should be enfu.
PS: I really like my spoon strut. Feel solid + JDM Points.
Carbing front strut tower brace. J'sracing rear strut tower brace and j's racing c pillar brace. Made the car feel extremely solid. A rear subframe brace is a good upgrade aswell. I run a Function7 one.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
I would like a race car feel! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by amant02
I don't have a front strut brace because i've got a gruppe intake and from what I know, only the J's racing strut will fit over the Gruppe M.Quote:
Originally Posted by DRMZON
and to be honest, the J's racing front strut doesn't really look appealing to me when it comes to doing anything. not sure why, but that's the feeling i get when i look at it.
I've already got a C-pillar.
What I'm thinking, is there any braces for under the car? like one of those 4 point braces or something?
Function7 rear subframe bar. Stiffen the rear up real well.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
Thank you for that juicy morcel.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
There are braces of which you speak, my EP3 came with an UltraRacing 4 point brace.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
http://ultraracingaustralia.com.au/i...ory&path=68_93
oh nice! I am after something like that!Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
how does your car feel when driving with the brace?
have you driven an EP3 without the brace?
hehe hence chiming in. I can't articulate the feel very well.Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny07
I have driven an EP3 without the brace but it's not like I was hooning, I was just driving around.
Even just driving around there was a difference with the brace - it wasn't a HUGE difference but I could feel a change at lower and higher speeds.....
When I initially got my EP3 it had oem suspension + brace.
After a while I installed Tien HA's to the car.
The front felt tight before installing the coils but after adding coilovers the front did feel a fair bit more precise, tighter and responsive.
Mind you, I still have to play with my suspension settings
hey guys,
I'm in the process of importing an EP3 with Iron Chef Imports. I'm looking for a black FL model, but am willing to get a Pre-FL if it takes too long to find a Black FL, since they would be pretty rare.
Has anyone driven both the Facelift and Pre-Facelift model? I know Honda made some good changes with the FL version. Is there much of a difference between how each drives?
Will it be worth the wait for a facelift model to pop up?
Cheers
I think the difference would only be cosmetic. Headlights, taillights and front bumper
straight from wiki
"2004 saw this successful CTR updated with many improvements - revised EPS with quicker steering, revised suspension settings, projector headlamps (JDM came equipped with halogens only while the EDM came with an option for HIDs with self-levelling motors), lighter clutch and flywheel assembly etc.; based on Honda literature, this facelifted (FL) model was targeted at addressing customers' and critics' feedback such as understeer on the limit (due to the front MacPherson strut setup), numb steering response and lack of low end torque."
Lighter flywheel is the main thing - should give the FL a more racey feel.Quote:
Originally Posted by zpG
I've heard that some people are using the Spoon 4-2 header bolting on to the stock bottom half.
Are there any other brands that provide something similar?
J's racing.Quote:
Originally Posted by mryangtastic
and 5zigen
Hi guys, does anyone know what hid bulb type are fitted from factory and what wattage the ballasts are? From looking around its either d2r or d2s.
D2R for low and high beams - which is what you're after.
D2S is low or high beam only (one of them anyway)
Just bought a Philips pair myself the other week
Where did you get a pair from? I see cheap ones on EBAY which are pretty convincing but not sure how long they will last.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
https://www.cheapestcarparts.com.au/?s=D2r
Cost me $67 delivered for genuine philips
Cool...thanks. [emoji4]Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Has anyone in Sydney had their EP3's guards rolled/pulled/pumped?
Who did you use? How much?
Inb4 Philb
Cheers for the hook up! How many K's did you go with? Im thinking 8000k...Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeyy168
Hey bro, yeah mine are rolled.Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
Sydney Guard rolling
A guy named nelson did mine. $65 each corner.
6000K color temperature buddyQuote:
Originally Posted by SHRUKA
John the guard roller, $50 per corner and you only need to roll your rears. He's cabra/livo area
Hey guys,
Currently building up a brake refresh on the EP3 but trying to line some details up, ive googled around but just want to be sure... It all says to be the same.. But haven't found no AUS info mentioning our JDM EP3..
EP3 and DC5 share the same front rotors & rear rotors correct?
Would then Brake Pads also be the same?
Thanks,
Hey buddy,Quote:
Originally Posted by ntonio
Pads and rotors are the same as dc5
Front rotors are different, rears are the same iirc
haha, conflicting information lol..
I stand corrected! Fronts are different.
Thought the fronts would be the same since they use the same calipers
Yep, Mikeyy is correct, pads and calipers are the same.
Rear rotors are the same.
This is true for UKDM but not JDM.Quote:
Originally Posted by JordanMugen
If you go by part numbers from Honda parts catalog, you will see Prefl and Fl have identical flywheel part numbers.
You mean to say.Quote:
Originally Posted by aRze
EP3 Front rotors are different to DC5 lol.
Either way just ordered in some Project MU NS400's from Racer Industries, great upgrade over the base dixels in there atm.. Was looking at the HC800's but the car doesn't do any track/hills so just seemed excessive.
Now to get some rotors lined up, and may change the front brake lines also to braided.
Dont be fooled by that JDM Flywheel.
Its the same ones from our FN2R.
Dont pay JDM Tax on it.
So it pretty much is just cosmetic and lights?Quote:
Originally Posted by Poeter
I'll be getting a Pre-FL in black then will put the FL headlights on. Still haven't found one yet though.
Hey everyone.
Is anyone here running PLM headers? What did you guys do about losing the heat shield? Is there an after-market heat shield product available? A quick Google search didn't give me any results.
Heat wrap them m8
Can get the stuff from autobarn etc....
Has anyone found that the Fujitsubo RM01A is little on the quiet side?
^Yep, thats RM01A for ya
Well, thanks to Iron Chef Imports I got a car in Japan waiting to come over. Think we got a pretty sweet deal too. 2002 with 85,000km and we got it for just under $10,000, I was really expecting to pay more. Really excited for it to arrive!
Attachment 28529Attachment 28530Attachment 28531Attachment 28532Attachment 28533
Are you planning on road registering it?
Defintely. Why's that?
I'm assuming 10k without on road tax's ?
Yeah. Was told just then it will be around another $7000 once landed for compliancing etc. Was graded 4.5B so it's very clean example.
What do you guys recommend I should start buying for mods, thinking a CAI or the gruppe m intake first and either the Mugen twin loop or RM-01A for the exhaust. Looking for something on the quieter side.
Regarding double din head units, do I need the fascia kit or will they fit straight in for JDM models compared to the UK Civics?
Cheers!
What is the plan for the car? Do you plan on tracking the car? Or just street/spirited driving?