few scratches.. but for $30 im not complaining lols .. better than none :DQuote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
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few scratches.. but for $30 im not complaining lols .. better than none :DQuote:
Originally Posted by mugen_ctr
Found out that my previous 'fix' for my rattling driver side door lock wasn't such a good fix. Not sure if it's something to do with the change in weather (bought the car this summer, it's obviously now winter, been freezing cold & pissing down in Adelaide), but it started with the passenger side door not unlocking when I used the remote central locking. That eventually seemed to have fixed it self for a few weeks, then decided it no longer wanted to LOCK. (Went from not unlocking, to not locking)
And now, just last night, I discovered that the driver side door won't unlock anymore either. The inside lock is VERY stiff & is actually a bit of a strain to flip it open/closed by hand.. So, it looks like i'll be reopening my door & possibly taking out the foam I put in there to stop the rattling.. Seems I have to choose between an annoying rattly door lock or not being able to get in my car, lol.
pack grease at the points where your lock rods connect. If you dont know what i mean i might be able to find some pics from when i deadened my doors.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
I know what you mean by the points where the lock rods connect. The rods all connect to small, white, plastic 'tabs' that rotate back and forth when you lock/unlock the doors, moving the rods etc. Not sure what you mean about packing grease though. I was gonna try some RP7 or the Lithium Grease Spray I bought ages ago but never ended up using, before removing the foam. Removal of the foam was gonna be my last option as the rattling really, really got to me and almost made me wish I never bought the car lolQuote:
Originally Posted by TbM
i used htb grease cause i had a tub sittin round from doing mates wheel bearings, you just dip your finger in and put a big glob of grease at the point the lock rod connects, becausae its so thick it will make it hard for the rods to vibrate where they connect which is where the problems coming from.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
You put a bit here
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...Untitled-5.jpg
and pack heaps around this bit
http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/...Untitled-4.jpg
Ah I see now! So, you reckon, remove the foam & pack grease on those points? Will definitely give it a shot on the weekend. :)
hard to say without seeing what you have done but if you have used foam to stop them vibrating then there is a good chance you have created extra resistance for the lock to open and close which would explain your problem, using grease on the point adds very very minimal resistance to the open and closeing but restricts the connections ability to vibrate.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
Ive got solid polyurthane hasport mounts on my car and just using grease stopped mine rattleing.
those points can get worn over time as well.
nothing can help this.
ever tried packing a thick grease like htb or all purpose on the connecting points?Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Yeah, I would definitely say that the foam has created resistance, but that was part of the idea and it seems to have created a bit too much resistance now. The biggest problem with my lock is not really the vibrating, but the fact that the rod connected to the 'switch' (the thing you press down/flip out to lock/unlock the door) doesn't hold the switch too well, the switch is given too much leverage to move on it's own around the rod. I think that's where I'll have to pack the most grease, try and get plenty in between the 'loop' of the switch and the rod that holds it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TbM
Regardless, I'll give this a shot, the grease is fairly inexpensive. I also just had the idea of stuffing a ton of blu-tac in/around it.. If all else fails I might just go see if I can find an EK at the wreckers & steal it's switch, or even the whole rod & switch.
Cheers for the ideas anyway, will experiment this weekend. :)
May also get around to doing DIY CTR headlights & lubing up my lower control arm pivot points to stop the squeaking.
if its really worn you could wrap the end of the lock rod in a small ammount of electrical tape to reduce the gap, then pack grease around it, i probably wouldnt use blutac as thats quite hard and sticky so might just run into the same problem again, also if the switch moves around easily you can put grease behind it on the point it mounts to make it not wobble around so easily, i did this on my passenger door as the switch would vibrate at certain rpm or bass hits and it has stopped it.Quote:
Originally Posted by TranceZiggy
the white plastic where it clips to the door, moves a few mm in each direction, don't think htb grease will help.Quote:
Originally Posted by TbM