my b18a?
thats gettin built up even more, thats the engine i want in there eventually.
forged pistons, carbon moly rings, race bearings, ported, bigger valves, cams, titanium retainers, dual springs
few other things
hopin to make power to 10k
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my b18a?
thats gettin built up even more, thats the engine i want in there eventually.
forged pistons, carbon moly rings, race bearings, ported, bigger valves, cams, titanium retainers, dual springs
few other things
hopin to make power to 10k
An interesting point I found out for the DA9 front suspension that may help you guys out.
Since the front upper suspension wishbone rubber mount bushes flog out from age and start squeaking/creaking, I took them out to get some new ones fitted.
Went to a suspension joint and they said none were listed for a DA9, so I asked them to get in some DC2 bushes and measure them up.
They fit! so it is now part DC2 type R. Got the urethane kit with offset pins so camber can be adjusted too. So of you need em, just get in the DC2 ones.
swapped out the JDM filler neck with an AUDM one from the red car today. no more fuel leaking from the filler neck cos you cant get a cap to fit it!
JDM on the left, AUDM on the right.
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/1426/sam0066j.jpghttp://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4435/sam0065e.jpg
if only someone had done this years ago, then I wouldnt have a big patch of faded and rough paint on my rear quarter panel
oem jdm cap ftw!!!!
i like cuz its got the anti tightenin stuff lol
clicks
l
what does the OEM JDM cap look like? Mine had a replacement CPC cap that clicked as well but it didnt seal properly, pretty sure it was a replacement for a DA9. besides as you can see in the photo, the rim of the filer neck is actually separate and sealed with some kind of rubber/sealant that was all perished and coming out, you can actually see some of the seal on the flap in photo 2.
I guess my car is no longer fully genuine JDM :(
ugh, maybe mine is replaced, but doesnt leak tho
question, what is the red light in below the handbrake one?
its look like somethin overheating
basicly since i did my manual conversion that light stays on
also in general,
my car seems to overheat regardless of that light,
ive changed my thermostat, theres no leaks, radiator is fine, thermos turn on.
the car seems to overheat after bitof thrashin, if u start driving normally it cools down, so that wat makes me think radiator works,
if u stop it starts overheatin again..
im running out of ideas, gonna put my gauges in a sec to check if its the sensor but yeh
I doubt its the sensor as it is picking up a variable reading consistent with what you are doing.
Seems like the cooling capacity is reduced and hence it is overheating more easily.
Could be caused by-
Blockage in the airflow, easy to see and fix.
Air pockets or bubbles in the coolant, just do a proper bleed which I am sure you know how
Blockage in the coolant flow or radiator. These are old cars and even if this is its second replacement rad it could have some block by now.
You should be able to get it flow tested for pretty cheap at any radiator place, or just give it a reverse flush.
As for the light, I'll have a look tomorrow night but I think the one you are referring to has something to do with the emission control or O2 sensor.
yeh ill try what u said, lol we broke somethin else on the cooling system so need to get that replaced, where the blled valve is,we actaully broke the metal its attached to
idk how but yeh
as with the sensor, wud it be somethin todo with that extra sensor we have on the exhaust cuz, i accidently pulled that out lol....
car still ran so didnt think much of it
Stevo, just out of curiosity, what box are you using?