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I'm getting the front rotors and brake pads all around replace tomorrow. Do I need to bleed the brake fluid and replace with new fluid or just top up? Had the car for about 6 years and don't think the brake fluid has been changed before.
To bleed and replace, how many bottles of brake fluid will I need to get from dealer?
Since it is 6 years without a change of brake fluid, I'd syphon all the brake fluid out of the reservoir and then refill with new brake fluid. Then you will need to push all the brake fluid through the lines and out through each caliper, making sure you top up the reservoir at all times. When I do it, it usually takes 1 bottle, but I'd prefer to have 2 bottles ready just in case!Quote:
Originally Posted by Euro1011
Good deal there, hope someone snaps it up. I would if I didn't have my DBA4000s.Quote:
Originally Posted by enkay
Had the front rotors replaced yesterday to the DBA Slotted Street Series and brake pads to Bendix GCT and also the bleed the fluid. Noticed during braking, I had to push the brake pedal down more in order to stop. Asked the mechanic and he said because the brakes are new, give it time to run in and also the Bendix GCT pads are softer pads compared to the Honda pads which are harder pads.
Hmmm, is this correct or the brake needs some adjustment or other problem? I would have thought pushing down the pedal slightly would stop the car rather than having to push the pedal nearly all the way down. Drove the wife's Toyota this morning and only had to press the brake pedal slightly and the would stop.
Appreciate anyone could assist.
I got got this from another forum and have summarised it for easier understanding. I did this after I changed the pads on my evo and it felt a lot better after. But the general ct's are quite bad theyre good enough for a euro
You need to bed in the pads, do a good half a dozen or so hard brakes from high speed around 100 - 140km's. Hard but not hard enough to make the abs kick in.
Down to around 40/50 kms and again. Keep doing it again and again until you can smell the pads and the brake pedals feels a bit softer. Assign yourself a brake check point. As you are getting back up to speed drag the brakes with your left foot up to your brake check point.
Cruise around for a bit trying not to stop to let them cool down.
So what does this do? Ill just explain it briefly
What this does is takes the pads through a heat cycle, as they reach high temp the bonding agents soften and compress together.
After repeated heat cycles and pressure from hard braking, the pad material will be more compounded making the bonds more rigid.
The pads are also now shaped to match the rotors giving a more consistent brake pedal feel.
Dragging the brake with your left foot will transfer some brake pad material onto your rotors, this will make them stickier and help in resisting fading.
i got project Mus and they are Great =D
just my 2 cents
Hi Guys,
Getting some serious shudder under braking on my 2003 Euro so I think new rotors are in order. No idea where to start really, just wondering if these are any good?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ACCORD-CH...ht_3668wt_1140
Any advice would be great, cheers!
mate you dont need to necesarily get new rotors - get the thickness measured and as long as its within spec you can machine them and good as new. All for a fraction of the cost of new rotors....
make sure to get new pads and bed them in properly to maximise life and braking feel
Quote:
Originally Posted by hooyn
Not right - the usual bedding procedure is from 50-60km/h to ALMOST dead stop and keep driving , keep doing this 60-5km/h hard stop 6-8 times then go for a light cruise for 5 mins to let the brakes cool down.
Where can you go to 140km/h to 50km/h back and forth ? Load of tripe and unsafe - on new pads this may end up in disaster as the pads have no grip yet - you may end up with no brakes straight up the ass of a truck
I actually got the rotor's machined back in 2008, can they be done again? CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
Please grab a vernier caliper....and measure the exact thickness now. If its within range ( new is 28mm thick) then its OK to machine. But if its on the limit (should be printed on the actual rotor itself) you will need to replace. Sorry I dont have teh workshop manual - shoudl state it in there !Quote:
Originally Posted by mrshibby
Thanks for your help! :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin