It doesn't go through the ecu, it will stay on regardless of ecu or cat. Ground the wire either underneath the car or as it goes through the car underneath the drivers seatQuote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
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It doesn't go through the ecu, it will stay on regardless of ecu or cat. Ground the wire either underneath the car or as it goes through the car underneath the drivers seatQuote:
Originally Posted by stevo716
yeh, when i put my exhuast on im gonna need to,
it goes under the console actually ive accidently cut it before, and traced it there
Grrr.. ****in spewing right now.
Just broke an exhaust manifold stud off in the head while I was putting everything back together, that'll teach me for trying to do it by feel instead of using the torque wrench.
wouldnt you know it, Honda has none in stock in SA and cant get one till Friday, I have the thread fix man coming tomorrow morning to get the old one out but damn its going to be an expensive lesson.
I wonder if I could get the thread man to remove a stud from my B18A head I have laying around and use that?
frustrating thing is, everything is ready to go, finished all the custom work I had to do etc and now I have time off and cant put it all in the car
Edit: just checked part numbers and they are the same for both heads. I have a few generic studs laying around too but I would rather go genuine for something like this (superstitious!)
haha just use generic man, i had to extend intake ones cuz of the gasket i put on it
but yeh b18a ones shud be same
use emm :P
ive borken exhaust ones just removing them, no fun lol
Little update. Thread man came this morning and took the broken stud out with no issues then got the badly rounded nut off the manifold on the red car and took out one of those studs all up cost $88 which is not bad considering they come to you, great bloke too. Even put the stud into the head for me.
Aside from that, got the turbo all installed with modified wastegate actuator braket, got the radiator installed with all kinds of custom brackets to hold it and the fans in place. There is so little room in the front of a DA for turbo and a bigger radiator its not funny.
Just got to refill and bleed coolant, mount up the traction bar, do a stringline alignment, pressure up the oil and then she should be right to start. Tuning will be in a couple of weeks. I have taken heaps of pics along the way, might have to do a couple of writeups when I get a chance.
few pics-
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/925/sam0256x.jpg
http://img852.imageshack.us/img852/1966/sam0311.jpg
http://img847.imageshack.us/img847/3465/sam0316.jpg
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/4065/sam0327q.jpg
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/364/sam0264e.jpg
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/126/sam0326.jpg
zuututututuut
haha looks sweet man
good job
Do you need to get the traction bar engineered?
No idea.
Probably should given that I have removed and replaced a structural part of the car.
idk its prob a bit iffy, cuz dc2s dont run that bar,
is ur turbo engineering? cuz that bars least of ur worries haha
no but the DC2 is a slightly different setup.
yeh true ah well
doubt theyll notice there used to be a chunky ass thing there lol
ive got my bar coming soon too lol
That's exactly what I was implying. It's like aftermarket engine mounts; structural parts which specifically haven't been ADR tested.Quote:
Originally Posted by mooshie
An engine mount is far less conspicuous than a big shiny replacement crossmember.
I don't have a turbo so I don't need all that crossmember space. I just replaced the standard OEM rubber bushing with a spherical from Progress.