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it is probably your rubber seats in the top hats of the standard suspension, they are about 20 years old now and rubber gets hard and squeaks over that time. you could always try putting a tiny bit of a very thin machine oil on there and see if that works. could always put it on other bushings to see if they are the problem too.
only a drop should do the job dont go making a mess.
could be.. but it started happening with the new suspension on? thanks for the replys anyway
i think he meant it squeaks but sounds like a rattle.
this happens when u change suspension. once u put coilovers u drop ur ride height which has move the sway bars from its normal position where its's clipped onto your chassis.
if u undo the rubber bushes that holds the swaybar to the chassis and grease it up. squeak will go away
basically swaybar is squeaking with the rubber bushing that's holding it.
oh ok thanks heaps man i'll try that soon.
will 15 x 6 wheels with 55 offset fit on the da9? i am looking for stocky alloys and some are for sale from a BB2 prelude. tyres are 205/50/15
been looking at S/C or turbo my left over B18A1 , basically i read a few threads about turboing or supercharging it,
a guy wrote this in hondaswap:
well, its not the # of hp gained, its when and where the hp is gained.
100 hp from a blower is great, but front wheel drive cars like ours benefit from maxemizing their strenghts, and dealing with loads of low end power and torque is not one of them.
"If you decided to turbo your car and gained lets say 90hp (just to prove my point) the power wouldnt come right away (turbo lag) but it would be available from 3krpms to your redline (unlike a blower which becomes less effective as more stress is put on the crank pulley).
One thing to consider with a frontwheel drive car is the issue of traction. If you cant get traction you arent going to go anywhere so to speak, and in this case, a turbo would be your friend, because you will be able to hook up nice off the line and then your power will kick in.
hope that helps"
does this sum up the diff between the 2? lolz
thanking you guys
his point are true. either way it gonna be well worth your while looking at increasing traction. gaining extra horsepower anywhere is useless unless you can put the power to the ground. a good example of this is the ability of all wheel drive vehicles to compete with far more 'powerful' cars. it doesn't so much matter how much power you can make but wat you can do with it. however to get back to the point for the ba18 which is already quite strong in the low rpm area i would go with the turbo option... betta on fuel too..
Thanx man,Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
Was thinking that a turbo would be better,
was just thinking that a S/C would be different, but if its not going to do much for me , and cost 2x as much then turbo would be the better option.
thanks again
please anyone quickly?!!? will 15 x 6 wheels with 55 offset fit on the da??
I Got Skunk2 I/M and T/B mounted on engine, just got a few questions plzz:
#1 some people are saying i will need to change fuel rail in order for everything to fit, is this true or can i just use stock b18a rail.
from what i can see the stock I/M has bolts monted to it and the rail slides over , securing with 3 bolts, skunk2's i/m has 3 holes for bolts to go into, was hoping i could just get bolts to fit, and smaller spacers, and the FRV wont fit, bottom pipe hits the I/M .............can i just get aftermarket one ?
#2 some things look like they are not needed any more, just wondering in the pic i attached bellow do i need any of these parts?
or just plug holes?
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...ploads/OZZ.jpg parts off
http://i1190.photobucket.com/albums/...loads/zzzz.jpg original locations
edit: #2 sits on the I/M right under the T/B..... under the bit wer the 2 pipes go thru the bottom of the T/B
U can use stock fuel rail thats fine, FRV?, Do u mean ur Fuel Pressrure Regulator , the thing to the right of the rail with two hoses?, if so i just turned it upside down and it fit perfectly,
u can get rid of all those parts, 1 and 3 are cold idlers, u just got hold ur revs up a bit when ur startin ur car, or itll stall
2 is a warmer, remove it and just bypass it, so the hose coming from the IACV goes straight to the head
also noticed in pic 70mm throttle body? wow u planning on turboing? also im assuming u bored the IM out to fit this,cuz from factory there only round 63mm, meaning ur tb wont open
Thanks heaps stevo, thought they were junk now lol, I got new skunk2 I\m an t/b , put them together and the throttle opens to full, did u mean if I use 70 mm on stock I/m? And after a bit of researching I decided I will build and turbo my old motor, after I install newer one I'll have it in my garage so plenty of room to rebuild:)
thanks mate :)
ah if it opens thats fine
just measure cuz if u want full benefit itll have to be 70mm too