would love to see a dc2r shredding at over 300kmh lol!!
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would love to see a dc2r shredding at over 300kmh lol!!
How long would b20vtec last for?
its can last for a long time, with good maintenance.
tinkerbell had a b20 for like yonkz with no problems, depends on the person aswell.
btw vtec pm me when your getting your shit :p
Same as any other engine.
I don't understand where the reliability issues idea of a b20vtec comes from. It may have some flaws, but if they are rectified when being built, you really don't have an issue!
Put simply, ring seal and bearings keep your engine together. If you can match those two, you should be fine.
^ lol actually thats true, i've seen that a fair few times..."my boy from the block...." hahah
Nah, I just thought its standard practice to change the bearings, rings and seals when the engines out. Plus I was interested in learning how to do it...
Oh and Ive been reading about multi angle valve seats, are they supposed to improve the seal of the valves?
"standard practice" for 40 year old V8 maybe?
not for a precision japanese engine... 'standard practice' would be to measure the clearances & tolerances to confirm, or leave it alone and run as is...
to "learn how to do it" you need about $400 worth of measuring devices...
Well, my machine shop will be doing the measurements for the new bearings for me. I guess its just a precaution. Dont want it to fail after all the work thats been put in.
Btw how much difference does it make it terms of power, stresses and risk of detonations between a CR of 10 and say 11..
There is more torque and power to be found with higher compression, stresses are negligible. Risk of pinging, once again, negligible at those values.
If you're thinking standard pistons vs RS machines, or something, it's not just the compression ratio value, or the releifs to run big cams, it's the pistons design. Aside the fact your gaining torque, reponse and power you are effecting the flow characteristics of that cylinder compared to the standard piston. I very much like the RS machine design, well ITR design to be specific. It's a good piston and works well in B20's with proof.
By the way lerlo, your inbox is full.
Hey Guys,
Thanks for this thread... been forever contemplating an upgrade, be it engine or car...
I own a stock EM1 only mods done is my own make-shift custom CAI... I removed the resonator, shortened the intake pipe, cut a hole in the front bumper vent and meshed it. Installed a drop in K&N filter and used the remainder of the pipe and inserted it in chamber connected to the airbox to create more of a "direct flow." Result? Car feels more responsive and efficiency is still around 7.3-8L/100km plus louder VTec noise :) If this was a bad idea or waste of time please let me know... haha but enough about that...
I've been contemplating the B20VTec setup.. actually my dad has a CRV and I've been thinking about swapping bottom ends and not telling him haha
I'm basically in the same boat as some other EM1/EK4 owners and would like more power and torque... whilst the B16a is a great engine it can become a chore to drive with a full car or in warmer climates...
From what I've read a B20Vtec conversion is more like an engine rebuild for owners of B series Vtecs whilst the K20a is a complete swap...
I know that the K20a conversion is more costly... but does the cost-saving benefits of a B20 rebuild outweigh the reliability/performance benefits of a JDMK20a swap?
Does anyone know roughly the cost of each rebuild/conversion for my current set-up? Just a ballpark would do...
Does the stock EM1 have enough stopping power for either or would I be looking at a brake upgrade as well?
you already got a em1 so buy a block, clean it up if it has high kms (hot tank), get b20 vtec kit, get type r cams, cam gears, dual retainers etc etc and type r thortle body and you will make decent amount of torque