lol dyno dynamics :p
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hey im curious.. whats the blue line represent ?
to gauge the improvement from the throttle body, id have to go get a dyno, then drain my coolant, then remove my manifold, then port it out to 66mm then replace it, then refill with coolant, then fit throttle body and new EVAP lines, then let it learn the new TB for a few days, then go dyno again... i saw that as alot of effort and wasted money (around $160) just to see maybe a 1-2kw gain... and even that may not show up, as dynos done one week can vary 2-5kws (or more) the next week... hey, ive done three dyno in the space of 5mins, and even they are 1-3kws apart...
that is why i didnt do baseline for the TB... i just want a starting point so i can gauge what difference the K20Z head makes...
and also i needed to get a dyno A/F log to compare with :D
im guessing your talking about the blue line in the last dyno sheet? if so, that is my kw output at the wheels... except instead of starting at 2000rpm and revving all the way to redline... it was started around 5000rpm, hit rev limit, then backed off, then WOT to rev limit again... and so on...
Did the ECU eventually relearn the idle of the J32 TB without needing the HDS? or is it still idling at 1100rpm?
warm idle was sitting around 900rpm lol
ive swapped back to the stock TB for the next fews days... stalled itself first two times i started it with the stock TB lol my ecu must be going "f*ck! make up your mind!" lol
build starts on monday morning :) so first pics will be up monday night... :thumbsup:
LATEST UPDATE AND PICS~!
ok so on the J32A3 engine, the MAP sensor plugs into the TB and not the IM like on the K24A3... so you need to block the hole in the TB... weld/plug it up you say? lol well maybe, but on closer inspection, the K23A3 TB has three connections (besides the inlet)... it has: coolant in, coolant out, and EVAP vacuum... the J32A3 however, only has two! coolant in and out (these can be removed :) youll notice in my previous pics thats exactly what i did)... so for the EVAP line, simple, drill and tap into the MAP sensor hole, and hey presto! you have both problems fixed :thumbsup:
MAP sensor hole drilled out to 11.8mm and tapped 1/4 BSP thread:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...2298Medium.jpg
Right Angled 8mm EVAP line connection:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...2299Medium.jpg
Nice nice. Lateral thinking ftw!
ok... so my car is now at the workshop... parts all ready to go, intake manifold, tb, engine cover, etc all removed...
will recommence work on it tomorrow morning after ive gone via honda to get some tools :D
Excellent news. So the heads about to go on.
this is officially the most important thread on Ozhonda - Euro CL9
Top stuff!
PIIIIIIIIIIICCCCCCCSSSSSSSS!!!!!
Manifold taken off - starting to remove cam chain cover:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...show3Large.jpg
All jacked up - crank pulley and chain cover removed:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...show2Large.jpg
Cylinder head off!
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...show1Large.jpg
The block after we cleaned the Pistons and sleeves:
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...F2323Large.jpg
Mmm so damn sexy! you should see them go up and down, its better than sex!
http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/f...F2325Large.jpg
Yes i have some cool videos aswell, theyll be posted up with the finished product :thumbsup:
sweet asss!!!
Damn the pistons and cylinder area very clean.