Did this happen? ie, did you put the nitrous on?
I'm interested to hear what you think. :)
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Did this happen? ie, did you put the nitrous on?
I'm interested to hear what you think. :)
Yeah Update please..
nah it hasnt happened as yet as i spent a fair bit of cash on exhaust,intake & rims, I also work in the finance industry so this economic crisis is taking its toll. have alot of credit card debt atm which i wanna pay off before more mods, clutch is on its way sorta so i wanna do flywheel & clutch first, also talking to a few ppl about doing the ECU once the clutch is replaced, but i assure you people once this is done the next thing is guaranteed to be nitrous set up, i think it would be smarter for me to do the ECU first anyway, thatway i can have all the nitrous parameters set up ready to go for when i do the install!
u cant setup any parameters untill u tune it with nitrious.......
i hope u dont mean u will get the car tuned NA and then bolt the nitrious 2 it and think it will be fine..............
if u wanna pay for tune once and once only, then have the cash for ecu and tune once u have installed the nitrious and go and get it done in one hit...........
nitrous does not require a stand-alone ecu
dont dop it man
your floor pans will drop out
r u serious????? lolQuote:
Originally Posted by NSPYRE
if it doesnt require tuning to perfection, y dont u try it on ur car first..........
PM CL455 - member of this forum who added nitrous to his DC2. to my understanding (spoke to the person who actually installed his nitrous system) standard fuel maps were used and made 158kw@the wheels.
ignition timing however needs to be retarded a couple of degrees as mentioned in my previous post as well as a colder set of plugs installed.
sure, a stand-alone will provide greater gains but it is not essential in successfully running a nitrous setup
Guys, all im trying to say is ide rather do the ECU first then nitrous or do em both at the same time, but all this stuff cost $$ so most likely im gonna do the ECU first!
You do not need a standalone ECU if you are using a wet nitrous system. That is one that has nitrous AND fuel jets. Using a wet kit you can leave your existing tune untouched and tune the mixtures with the nitrous and fuel jetting in the kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by NSPYRE
Ignition retard is rally only necessary for old dinosaur engines and when you are running large amounts of nitrous. Again, tuning will tell you if it is required or not. With most modern engines running say 50-75hp shots of nitrous you probably wouldn't need to run less timing if you are using a good 98+ octane fuel.
Same goes for plugs. It depends on the tuning and amount of nitrous you run. That is why it is imperative that you get the car properly tuned on a dyno whenever you are playing with nitrous. Its not a simple case of fit the kit and use the jets recommended by the manufacturer. If you do you won't have any problem leaning out, but you will have a very rich mixture and this won't produce the results it should.