B16 stroker kit

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Originally Posted by Sir JDM

Thanx alot Adrian some very helpful information. Just a couple more questions.
I dind't get what you were saying about the ECU, is my stock ECU still able to be used? Or do i need to upgrade to an aftermarket or ITR one or something...?

Ball park figure for the costs involved to do the *engine rebuild*?

Will b16a cams be suffice?
Will this increase/decrease or do nothing to engine life?

thx mate

James

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Hi James,

Myself, I believe that if you're serious about modifying your car, one of the first things on your shopping list aught to be a top-shelf, programable aftermarket ECU. (Though it is often an expensive proposition)
Addressing this issue off the bat will alow you to realise the full potential of each improvement you make after this...
Reason being the std engine management system relies on a MAP sensor to determine it's fuel & ignition requirements...
That in it'self isn't a bad thing, but becaue improvements to volumetric efficiency can neither be seen nor calculated by the std ecu, it makes good sense to replace it with something capable of being adapted to positive change...
Bearing in mind what is said above, your car will still run well on the std ECU with the adition of an increased capacity kit, though you'll certainly not reach it's full potential...

As for engine build costs...
Different workshops charge different rates & offer varying levels of ability & experience with particular engines...
That said, were we to do the job, you'd be looking at approx $1750 + parts & machining costs for the engine build...
Engine R & R + tuning are additional again...
Please bare in mind though that actual parts costs are up to the individual...
All new gaskets & bearings will pump the cost up in the order of $700~$800

As for engine life... Nothing that increases the power output of a small engine is actually doing it any favours in the engine wear department...
Further to that, the engine is only as good as the builder regardless of parts used.
Hope that helps...
Cheers

Adrian

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Originally Posted by PhatSol

What is the oil pump gear required for?

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The std oil pump gear is a sinterd item, prone to fracture at sustained high rpm - 8500rpm+
Using the TODA item negates this problem...
When the outer gear fractures oil pressure is lost & the engine will suffer a catastrophic failure...

Thanx alot for the thorough info Adrian, been very helpful...

The reason i asked about engine life is that because alot of the internals would be new toda parts, wouldn't that increase life as it includes new pistons (forged), rods, crank and b/e bearings?
Would this count as an engine rebuild then?
Is boring needed/required/recommended in conjuction with the stroker kit?

Thanks again

James

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Originally Posted by Sir JDM

Thanx alot for the thorough info Adrian, been very helpful...

The reason i asked about engine life is that because alot of the internals would be new toda parts, wouldn't that increase life as it includes new pistons (forged), rods, crank and b/e bearings?
Would this count as an engine rebuild then?
Is boring needed/required/recommended in conjuction with the stroker kit?

Thanks again

James

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Regarding engine life...
I mentioned previously that your engine is only as good as it's builder regardless of parts used...
There are a lot of shitte, cheap workshops pretending to know what they're on about.
These are exactly the sort of people who can & will quickly turn your box of top shelf parts into an expensive piece of junk.
Without pointing fingers or naming names, things you need to be aware of...
Attention to detail & the ability to work to a spec rather than a tolerance is critical...
The only thing the cheapest guy in the industry knows is the value of his time.
Cleanliness is next to godliness... (How clean is your favourite workshop?)
That said, your engine could last a very, very long time or it may last a number of hours...

Regarding engine build...
The crank rods & pistons are the core of the engine.
If you get all these bits appart & don't go through & rebuild the whole thing...
Save yourself future greif...Do it once, do it right...
Never use stock bore pistons if you don't have too... (Regulation racing is an exception)
Bore & hone is strongly advisable to achieve correct clearence.
Using a dummy head is important... So too is the correct bore finnish...

Thanx alot for your help and replies adrian.

Very much apprecaited.

just one question...if i got a crower stroker kit for my 1.8l how much would it cost?, and do my merchanics have to do anythign to the other parts of my engine? or do all the parts in the stroker kit just fit in, (do u kno what i mean?) does my merchanic have to bore anythign out, or do the stroker kits do it for them? im confused about that...

thanks, i hope i made sence

where the hell are these old threads coming from???

EDIT ^^^OMG I didn't even look! LOL x 100!!! Oh well you all will read this and I will never have to say it again I hope! END EDIT!!

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Originally Posted by Cold Fusion

just one question...if i got a crower stroker kit for my 1.8l how much would it cost?, and do my merchanics have to do anythign to the other parts of my engine? or do all the parts in the stroker kit just fit in, (do u kno what i mean?) does my merchanic have to bore anythign out, or do the stroker kits do it for them? im confused about that...

thanks, i hope i made sence

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Crower doesn't offer a kit that drops right in. You have to bore then hone the block. They do make a kit to stock specs but you still have to hone it to make the rings seat perfectly. A good cross hatch is what allows the rings to seat, they will scratch in to the walls of the cylinder as they are a stronger material but the x-hatch allows the oil to bond/stick to something but not blow by. A full Crower kit starts at $1500USD +S&H and they go up. That kit would really be an Eagle crank, Eagle rods, and JE pistons. Crower also uses SRP and CP pistons. You can order any off the shelf kit or have a custom kit made, but that adds to the cost. Email dustin@crower.com and he can get a detailed list for you. Might not be able to give prices since you are not a dealer.

i dont want to have too much exstra cost involved...i need a new crank at the moment and im not sure which direction to go (sell car or do it up) what do you reckon?

how much are good cranks on there own? id want to upgrade and get a better one than stock, and then id get good pistons and rods and cams...HELP! thanks :)

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Originally Posted by [[d a n n y]]

where the hell are these old threads coming from???

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you guys always cry about people not searching, so i searched and found this but i wanted more info, if i just put a new thread up asking for more info i would of been told to search...

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Originally Posted by Cold Fusion

you guys always cry about people not searching, so i searched and found this but i wanted more info, if i just put a new thread up asking for more info i would of been told to search...

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damn....cant win either way....ur damned if u do n ur damned if u dont

lolz...thread revived y0 ! i rekon its good that u searched !! top work