You best be going to the drags....Quote:
Originally Posted by SeraphimX
If you want to go really fast, you need to get an auto. It would be fair to say that all dedicated drag cars are automatics.
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You best be going to the drags....Quote:
Originally Posted by SeraphimX
If you want to go really fast, you need to get an auto. It would be fair to say that all dedicated drag cars are automatics.
I don't see how 11hp suddenly converts to 11kw?Quote:
Originally Posted by jolt
Quote:
Originally Posted by coladuna
What it means is that if you have 11Hp @ the Wheels, collectively, it is around 11Kws @ the Fly.... before DriveTrain loss...
Proper Drag cars use automatics , fastest WRX in Oz is an Auto, The Honda Euro is not good for anything else but enjoy the comforts that the car was designed and a bit a sprited driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeraphimX
Have you taken your car to the Drags lately or any for that matter? do you know hard it is to get off the line in a manual trying to balance wheel spin and get traction at the same time? probably slighty easier in a FWD, Try AWD Too low revs car bogs down too high revs and you gotta get that realease point right without dumping the clutch to get a good launch and some sympathy for your gear box, unless it's upgraded box you can dump it at 7000rpm all day everyday WRX example.
Where as an auto you have more control once you get traction and the competition boxes, how do you think they get good reaction times with and auto, getting good reactions times at drags is already a mission get that right and you won half the battle to winning
The whole point is that the translation takes the drivetrain loss into account!!Quote:
What it means is that if you have 11Hp @ the Wheels, collectively, it is around 11Kws @ the Fly.... before DriveTrain loss...
Approximately 25% difference in conversion of hp to kW means ...
1hp is approximately equal to 0.75kW
Approximately 25% drivetrain loss means ...
1hp@engine is approximately equal to 0.75hp@wheels
1kW@engine is approximately equal to 0.75kW@wheels
Therefore hp@wheels is approximately equal to kW@engine.
Obviously the drivetrain loss will vary from car to car and will be greater on those cars which are AWD, but this is an accurate enough albeit rough rule of thumb.
thanks
Rod
That's the stock auto yeh? :D I think first off, that euro is not going anywhere that fast, its FWD and I think for the mods he is thinking about, manual is still the way to go for drag strip applications. Most auto boxes I know about can't handle much torque relative to the manual, and I think you'd have to get an aftermarket autobox which is probably gonna cost a bomb in order to get that kind of auto performance. Correct me if im wrong but in Japan drags they use sequential manual for drag strip applications for gtrs etc etc..Quote:
Originally Posted by Type R Positive
The AMG mercs with 6 litre supercharged engines run off auto boxes. It's not that they can't handle the torque. With FWD, you would prefer an auto if you have excess power. With manual, the power overwhelms traction too easily, and the total time lost is more than the time lost from the power loss through an auto box. So they use auto.
In REAL drags, the 1/4 mile lasts 8-9 seconds and they hit speeds of over 200km/h. Can you shift through 4 gears in less than 4 seconds? Remember, you need to let the car accelerate after shifting. In this situation, an auto box is still less efficient than a manual, but will get you faster times.
Mmmm.. Well looks like in drag racing due to wheelspin auto's are preffered. Thats something new... U learn new things everyday....
But for this guy is talking about modding his car so he can take on fords and holdens on the streets. On the street u need a manual car if u want it to preform better. Auto's are way to sluggish and u need human judgement to change gears on the streets... (When to perfect the timing to change gears or drop gears)....
In the end the best way is to force induct ur way to beating falcons and holdens V8's. Thats the most sensible option unless u of course got more money to burn and modify it N/A.
All in all the best way is to modify ur euro by using lightweight parts, change full exhaust and let it breathe better. If u like to be illegal and don't want to put a turbo or supercharger just nos it. But don't expect it to be like in 2 fast 2 furious coz it aint like that....
Stock exhaust is not bad - people are only seeing a few hp gain with a full change in exhaust on the Euro. You will see better gains relative to dollars spent with CAI, heatshield gasket, header and playing with the ECU. Sure, if you have the money - get a full exhaust too. Bang for buck - CAI and the heatshield gasket seem worthwhile - less than $500 in total for a noticeable increase in power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pum[Z]
Since the guy's Euro is an auto, putting CAI, catback and gasket will net him 20hp at most?? Then you take that 20hp and put it through the auto box and you get maybe 12-13hp left. Worth the money? You're right, in his case, forced induction is the way. But it would be easier, cheaper and more reliable for him to get an auto WRX anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pum[Z]
Just paying you out man, you think auto's are crap for drags.Quote:
Originally Posted by SeraphimX
For the Euro, yes, manual is much better. I wouldn't bother with an auto, thats why I got a manual. I know this is what you meant in your post, but I couldn't resist.
Jap drag cars are slow. Even serious jap drag cars use an auto. Ie: HKS supra.
Click on this link to see what nearly every fast drag car in the world is using for a transmission. Either this brand or similar.
http://www.lencoracing.com/
Ok... Looks like the only way if u want to beat Pesky Commodore's and Falcons is don't drag with a Accord Euro. Ur wasting ur time and Petrol...
Rule no.1 if u like to drag in the streets and usually the streets aint straight... Don't buy a automatic...
Rule no.2 if u want to beat holdens and Ford's. Look for a car that can do 0-100 in the 5-6ish second mark. Ur looking at the wrong car if u think ur Accord Euro can beat a Commodore or Falcon. (Yes maybe u can if it is a V6) but hardly a match if its a V8.
Rather then pay $10,000-$20,000 to modify ur euro to make it beat Holden or Fords sell ur car and buy a Liberty GT or the coming Mazda 6 MPS....
U modify ur car because its a enjoyable experience and individuality not because u want to beat all the cars u see to teach them a lesson...