Car Bogging Between 2500-3500RPM - ISSUE HAS BEEN FIXED!!!!!

yeah no prob. But look at those wires taped up - that you showed me too. There is SOME OEM wires that are spliced on the standard loom.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tiksie

Hey guys, I have been getting a hesitation/bog between that RPM range on B16A in EG with a JDM P30 ECU and VAFCII hand controller.

I have changed things from plugs/oil/oil filter/coolant/cleaned throttle body/tryed different leads and none of them worked.

Anyone ever had the same problem and found a solution ?

Thanks!

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Yeah,I had a surging/hesitation problem that lasted 1 yr and 9 months,next to drove me nuts.

I tell ya,I know my car bloody good now :thumbsup:

Eventually learnt of the problems that were the cause:

* 02 Sensor

* Timing off

and,the biggest one of them all that clearly removed any sign what so ever of surging/bogging/hesitation:

* This!

A lot of sweat,blood and tears has gone into that DIY.I'm very proud of myself for sticking through all my surging/hesitating problems and working this sh!t out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by MM89

that's something to check up on
but does that really explain the engine hesitation?

it feels like rpm is rising slowly and power isn't. once it has
bypassed that rev range, things seem normal. i've noticed a
slight drop in engine oil level but this might also have been due
to redlining alot to make sure vtec was working properly,
consistently and bringing the power that it usually does.

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I'd say the increased load during the hesitation is causing the heat shield to rattle. And check the TPS like Beeza said. It's possible for them to develop a voltage flat spot. It's hard to diagnose flat spots without a oscilloscope though. But resetting it correctly can't hurt.

Ah,a flat spot aye.

Hmmm,an oscilloscope aye :)

That's what was needed to find what terminal on the ICM is + and -

If you still have the problem after calibrating the voltage or you want to make sure all is fine with the TPS,swap in a known working one and calibrate it.Then you absolutely know it's fine.

Going by this:
http://www.apexi-usa.com/content/pdf6133.pdf

I will have to remove the VAFC wires into the spliced bits and just solder/tape up the wires ?

And re-attach the VTM Signal Wire, VTEC Solenoid Signal Input/Output wires, Pressure Signal Input/Output wires so it's just going into the ECU rather then the VAFC, is that right ?

Thanks!

yeah pretty much
whatever wires were broken to install the vafc, join them up together
vtc is useless to you since it's a b16 so you'll only have the other two afaik

So I removed the throttle body to clean everything on it, put it back on and now I'm getting a TPS error :( I'm not getting any voltage from the TPS and the engine light stays on and is running rich as anything! Only getting the TPS error, I thoght it was because i removed the VAFC, but the vafc was stil on when i put the throttle body back on after cleaning the TPS/IACV, but I can't adjust it as nothing is coming onto the multimetre! :(

check to see you didn't plug the map sensor wiring into the tps and vice verca

The TPS plug is much shorter, so that wasn't the case!

Going ben's tommorow to pickup a ecu, see if that fixes anything.

if it doesn't work tomorrow, grab a pinout diagram and check for continuity in the tps wiring. Could have a degraded circuit that broke when you unplugged it and moved the wiring around. Happened to me once

Thanks for the on-going support 02gzm, but how will I go about checking for continuity ?

Thanks!

Have you checked the tps positioning????? this is a major thing alot of ppl miss, go on to the sensor check (i think) on ur vafc and tell us what your voltage is a closed throttle and full throttle (ignition only obviously)