You'll need a very good case to hold that thing.
Diy voltage stablizer isn't a new thing. They're just capacitors .
You can always solder a multimeter to it.
Not sure about having it in in boot. Would prefer engine bay placement.
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You'll need a very good case to hold that thing.
Diy voltage stablizer isn't a new thing. They're just capacitors .
You can always solder a multimeter to it.
Not sure about having it in in boot. Would prefer engine bay placement.
Thanks for pointing out in the handling of that capacitor. It is large and needs to be handled with caution. Some people use it (larger pack) to replace their car battery to get the weight saving. Because it has low resistance it has a lot of instantaneous charge behind it.
Older generation capacitors (im showing my age here) are measured in the nano and micro Farad. It's amazing now how they can produce capacitors with hundreds even thousands of Farad.
I do not think that this new generation super capacitor can yet handle high temperature (engine bay). Give it a bit more time, I'm sure they will do it. It's amazing...
how about just hooking up 2 of these:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Com...itors/p/RE6702
just put a highly insulated casing around them.
Yes, that is a similar concept. We will need to buy 6 of them and wire them in series to get the right voltage. The voltage of the capacitor must be above the alternator voltage. In this case if we wire 6 in series (at 2.5V per capacitor) the voltage is 15 V (we can connect 7 capacitors in series to get 17.5V) which is just enough for our cars. I personally would like to have extra buffer (15 V is too close to the alternators voltage), which makes 2.7V capacitor ideal (total of 16.2 V with 6 in series). When we put 22 F in series the equivalent capacitance drops to 3.6 F (voltage increase, capacitance decrease).
With the one on eBay, we get a protection board with it to prevent overcharging. We shouldn't need it normally but if one capacitor fails, its good to have.