Euro Oil Consumption

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Originally Posted by V205

I owned a prelude too and a s15 200sx. Thrash them both regularly and no noticable oil consumption between 5000km.

Any Euro owners here who redlnes regularly without noticable oil consumption between 5k changes?

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I wouldn't say I thrash the car - but I give it the whole rev range from time to time when the engine is warm. I have never noticed anything other than full oil level when checking the car - now at 25,500kms. I broke the car in by giving it various loads and revs from day one - not redlining necessarily but not babying the car either.

It is also relevant to say that I bring my own oil in to servicing (since 10,000kms). My dealer was using just basic Castrol Magnatec oil (not even the Honda oil) - so I decided to bring my own.

This thread is getting a bit old but thought it useful for me to input my experience to let future EURO ACCORD owners know!


Anyway: I agree with V205 that it is good to thrash the car a bit even from the beginning. You need to bed in the piston rings to the cylinder bore and the only way to do this is to at least give it a few revs, even at the beginning. That is why Mineral oil is used to run in the car, as it offers less lubrication (more friction) than synthetic oil, plus various other reasons due to synthetic properties.

Just make sure to change the oil and oil filter more regularly at the beginning, i.e. first 10,000Km. I normally change once at 500km, once at 1000km, once at 5000km. Also I think running in car has not only to do with engine, but also various components as well.

I have been red-lining my Euro daily (but not entirely carelessly thrashing it either) and it hasn't consumed any noticeable oil from 1000km to 4000km. I apply same driving technique to all other cars I owned and never had oil consumption problems, not to mention they consistent perform better on the dyno machine stock vs stock. Just make sure not to abuse the transmission forcing into gears as gear boxes break-in very slowly!



Also - HONDA replied me in email - the Castrol Magnatec 10W-30 that they use to service the Euro is supposed to be the FMX Magnatec variety, which is semi-synthetic, and available to Dealers only. Information is available under Castrol, under Dealers link.

There is also available a 100% Synthetic Magnetic variant which is more expensive.

THESE SYNTHETIC CASTROL MAGNATEC FMX OILS ARE NOT AVAILABLE AT RETAIL, i.e. Autobahn, Super Cheap Auto, K-Mart, etc,. It is only available from your dealer, or through special order.


Please do not confuse Magnatec oil vs Magnatec FMX oil, they are very very different.

- Normal Magnatec is only Mineral based. Avail at retail, and not recommended.
- Magnatec FMX are either semi-synthetic or 100% synthetic. Has the advantage of magnatec technology and also synthetic technology.



However, some Honda dealers probably doesn't use the dealer only FMX variety oil. Please make sure that they do, as Honda Australia has said that this is WHAT THEY INTENDED to be use to service the Euro Accord K24s. :)

My Euro now has 51k on it & I have run Mobil 1 10w - 30 since the first service. Both Honda & Mobil have said in writting to me that using this oil will be fine & not effect warranty. The recommende oil grade is 10w - 30 ONLY You should not use other grades. I have had no significant oil consumption at all. It does no harm to have a LITTLE oil use, but not the levels mentioned here.

Recommended is 10w-30, but the manual states that a range of oils from 0w-40 up to 15w-40 can be used depending on the conditions. You can use other grades. If you have cold winters like in the US, then the recommended is 5w-30 because the 0 degree SAE viscosity would start to matter since the ambient temperature would be below 0 degrees!

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Originally Posted by aaronng

Recommended is 10w-30, but the manual states that a range of oils from 0w-40 up to 15w-40 can be used depending on the conditions. You can use other grades. If you have cold winters like in the US, then the recommended is 5w-30 because the 0 degree SAE viscosity would start to matter since the ambient temperature would be below 0 degrees!

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Spot on - a dealer can't say 10-30 only. That is recommended based on certain climatic conditions.

If you live at Thredbo or Alice Springs, for example, a totally different viscoscity would be appropriate (see your manual).

Speaking of oil consumption - my car has finally used some oil in between service (at 39,000kms). It is very close to being due for service (9500kms since last).

The dip stick was showing 75% full. I didn't need to top it up - but I did so anyway as I have some left over oil and this way some clean oil can dilute the dirty oil in there.

Obviously there are climatic conditions that will dictate a change of oil grade. But we are generally talking about standard Australian conditions & even if you do live in Alice Springs or Thredbo generally speaking the recomended grade would be 10w - 30. You have the choice of running a different grade in those circumstances. There is no reason or need in general terms to vary the grade from the recommended grade in normal operating conditions from that recommended by the manufacturer.