yeah i cant wait to have this all done and just enjoy the civic for a while. i have had it up on stands almost every weekend for the past 8 months so it will be good to just drive for a while.
Printable View
yeah i cant wait to have this all done and just enjoy the civic for a while. i have had it up on stands almost every weekend for the past 8 months so it will be good to just drive for a while.
hopefully I am not repeating what another member has mentioned.
Why not do a ITR caliper with 282 mini rotor swap?
All you need is 262 knuckles, ITR (crv, 5-stud prelude, accord etc) calipers and 2007 mini cooper base rotors (4x100 282mm). I have done this before with great results, I am doing it on my current build and on every future build.
I am also working on a bigger brake upgrade for the rears to match the 282mm fronts using oem honda parts, it is bigger than the dc2 VTIR rear setup and cheaper than and ITR 5-stud conversion. Will make a How-to in the DIY section, soon.
Because i dont want to, honestly im gonna be using a 1" master anyway, so i have left that option open for later on down the track but in my situation i doubt the extra 20mm will be needed and it would just be added rotational mass that dosnt need to be there. I understand where ur coming from though.
From my understanding, 1inch master cylinder requires less effort/force by your foot and produces the same amount of clamping force onto the rotor as a smaller master cylinder (which requires greater peddle force).Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveho1
Actually that extra 20mm x the circumference of the rotor has more surface area to help with brake-fade as well as bigger calipers and rotational of mass further away from the center also aids in stopping power. Sure you there is a little more rotational mass but it is offset 20mm and almost negligible/you will not notice it.
Please don't take what I have said the wrong way; all I am do is express my opinion and understanding to help you. At the end of the day it is your choice.
^^ easy diy and cheap .. been there done that and works great currently looking for nsx or legend 2pot
Dont get me wrong i uderstand how breaks but for my build its not needed. I find it frustrating when i say " guys i need your experiance with te following parts" and most just say "just get type r". If i was going for ultimate stopping force i would but the set up i have listed is set in stone what i dont have is experiance with various pads and rotors. Im still keen to hear your experiances so keep em coming.
Nothing wrong with 262 setup boys. I know a fair few people that use the 262 setup and get great results with good rotor and pad combo. I use the the ITR setup also, so definitely I'm not being biased.
^^^^ my point exactly, anyway have any of you guys used any QFM pads? I can get a set locally so i may give em a go based on what i have heard about em
Fair enough, just helping you get the best performance for the least amount of money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveho1
Here are my experiences with the parts you mentioned:
-I used EBC yellows. They are nice, for a race pad they have virtually no noise; but the dust really got on my nerves (no need for' em on a street car).
-I used EBC reds. They surprisingly had good bite cold-hot, no noise and very low dust, and it holds up occasional track days. (I am using these on my current build)
-Brake lines, Goodridge, HEL they are all good. I personally prefer the cheapest well known brand that I can find.
-As for rotors, I just run plain OE replacement (282mm) and they worked great with the both kinds of EBC pads. Not sure how the 262mm plain rotors compare in terms of brake-fade, might have to invest in the more expensive 262mm rotors (that is why I was saying to go 282mm, good performance for low cost/oe rotors).
Hope that helps :D
See its not the least amount of money cause i have 262 rotors calipers etc i dont have 282.
Buying more stuff dosnt save me money.
Im know the type r are bigger and beter and blah blah but im taking good deals where i can get them,
If it turns out this setup isnt suitable well ill sell off what i can and try somethong elce but untill then lets keep on topic. I know where your coming from though if i used the itr setup i would also have a better choice of pads and there would be abit more margin for error as far as pad selection goes as a larger rotor is just a bigger heat sink but im trying to go as light as possable so adding aditional rotating mass regardless if its only abit is something id rather avoid if i can make my smaller set up work. Know what i mean?